SkinnyG's V8 Pontiac Firefly

I need some kind of fuel-resistant sealer that I can use for the tank cover, but one that won't destroy the cover in the cover's removal.

Ideas?

Hylomar or EZ-turn

Hylomar Blue wont go hard and doesn't react with gas, EZ-turn is used as a lube for 1/4 turn valves in airplanes, but can be used as gasket goo.

In researching these too,, I got to thinking....

I already have a tub of Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket. Would that be comparable? It ~seems~ to say fuel resistant, and generally non-hardening....

I recall the guys in the shop (when I was still in the auto industry) used the Permatex Aviation Form-a-gasket on gearbox gaskets and other places where paper gaskets were used. Though I do seem to remember it was a pain to separate the parts that were stuck together with it.

That has been my experience too, but that was many moons ago. I really only use the stuff for frost plugs. But it seems to "say" it'll do the same thing....

I don't need it right-freaking-now, and my local Acklands-Grainger lists Hylomar in their catalog, so I might order up a tube and deal with it once I ~know~ my fuel pump works and I don't need to go in there again.

I didn't get very much done today through a collection of commitments. I did some sorting out of the fuel tank cover, using pipe strapping to space out the screws (took me a bit to decide exactly on the spacing). The cover needs to be removeable should I ever have to replace the fuel pump. I guess, of course, I could have made the tank come out the bottom....

Then started plumbing the fuel lines. That fancy AN braided hose would be sweet, but it is very pricey. Hard line is cheap, but way more difficult to work with. I want as few splices as possible. I got the supply line up to the front, just have to do the return. I haven't decided about a charcoal canister or not for vapours.

RoddyMac17 wrote: Hylomar or EZ-turn Hylomar Blue wont go hard and doesn't react with gas, EZ-turn is used as a lube for 1/4 turn valves in airplanes, but can be used as gasket goo.

Hylomar Blue is where it's at in my opinion. We use it in aviation all the time. It works great under pressure and can react to some pretty insane heat cycling (Turbine engine combustor housings) and doesn't mind being soaked in fuel. It disassembles fine as it is "non-hardening" but it does take a little bit to clean up before reassembly.

Hard lines are run from the tank area to the motor. Just need to connect to the fuel pump once I form the last elbow for the feed line, then drill and grommet the holes into the tank area.

3/8" supply, 5/16" return.

Return hose will be connected once I blow the line clear.

I only had 30 minutes to spend all day. All I got done was the last section of hard line from the filter into the fuel tank cavity. Connect the rubber line to the pump/pickup and the feed is complete.

Otherwise, this is just a shameless bump.

Fuel lines are done. Fuel tank vent done. Refined the cover a bit more. Have the battery-disconnect switch housing mostly done.

Picked up engine oil (I have to check and see how much ATF, Antifreeze, and gear oil I already have. I know I have a litre of brake fluid) plus the flare nut adapter to run hard lines for the tranny cooler. VERY close proximity to the header, and a friend's C3 LSx burned to the ground from a failed trans cooler line - so I'm doing hard line.

With any luck, it should be at least ~running~ soon.

Back. Out of town for a few days. A clandestine trip in northern British Columbia reaching the Tukon Territories, and Alaska, all in 9 days. Started with three nights in Barkerville BC.

Then spend the night in Prince George BC.

Stopped in MacKenzie BC, because I have never been there before.

Stayed the night in Fort Nelson BC.

Long haul to Watson Lake YT.

Then down to Stewart BC, with my two boys the same age as I was when I lived there.

With, of course, a stop in Hyder AK to watch the bears (though this photo was taken on the Stewart-Cassiar Highway).

Stayed the night in Quesnel BC, and then back home.

All this in the Silverado?

Nah. The family car is a Buick Century, in Geriatric Gray, complete with large-print speedometer.

The seats fit spherical octogenarians, so currently I'm in a lot of back pain. With enough Robaxacet, it will pass.....

I was thinking about this the other day.

Why are you needing a fuel resistant sealer for the top of your tank?

As I see it you shouldn't be getting any fuel on it unless you have a leak. And if you have a leak it has to come off and get resealed anyway, right?

I'm picturing the car upside-down at the bottom of a ravine, with gasoline leaking from ~somewhere~ and thus getting into the passenger compartment.

I know of no requirement for this, but for my own peace of mind. Think of it as $20 for an extra "please don't light me on fire."

Tranny cooler hard-lines are bent up, but the NPT-to-flare adapter I bought isn't actually flared, so I need to pick up another one.

I did beat the header enough that I can now (theoretically) change the starter without removing the header. Removing the header on one side takes about half a day.

Fortunately, fluids and brake bits are "free" at the Grassroots Motorsports Challenge.

These are still good, eh?!

It looks like a vented rotor to me. Allows the gasses to escape to the voids in the middle.

MulletTruck wrote: It looks like a vented rotor to me. Allows the gasses to escape to the voids in the middle.

But it looks like it has one too many vents!

And thin, too.

MulletTruck wrote: It looks like a vented rotor to me. Allows the gasses to escape to the voids in the middle.

Not sure if this is a joke or not?

Something funny about trying to explain what vented rotors are to the guy who literally engineered his own car top to bottom.

lol

Tough crowd here.

Of course it was a joke.

Perhaps they are cross-slotted rotors?

Hey SkinnyG at least you got Mtruck to respond.... how's yur back after a gazillona miles(er km's) in your backyard??