my c4 is 27" center to center of the U- joints/31" from wear mark on the yoke to rear U-joint center.not really that much stuck into the tranny maybe 2/3". and the coleman DS is 24" to the damage point from center of U-joint. add about 4" for yoke. with the engine setback on this vette I have to shorten one of them so If you need one just tell me.
currently he gets them every other weekend. hes going for full custody. ovid, I'm going to be honest: I'm well out of my league on the legal stuff. I pray I never have to understand it. I know the kids thrive when here, and become much more repressed by the time he gets them again, both emptionally and socially. so....
I'm hoping we have to rent a bouncy house at the challenge for all our munchkins. could definitely add a new dimension to the parking lot party.
current driveshaft is 38 inches center to center at the u-joints with 1 inch of travel into the trans left.
gtx: lost your number. have no idea where it went.....
87-95 Jeep Wrangler front driveshaft?
1987-1995 Jeep Wrangler driveshaft
Da website said: Measures approx. 38" from center u-joint to center u-joint Should fit both manual, automatic trans.
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Didn't some 70's chevy/gmc pickups have split drive shafts? Maybe scrounge one up. Is diameter a concern? Will a Front shaft have the strength for torque? Maybe it's worth having the fabbed shaft balanced, and save $$ another way.
List for when I get home from vacation.
Prime oil system.
Pressure test fuel system.
Wire ignition and starter.
Mmo is cylenders
Check plugs and install wires
Check fluid levels
Nut and bolt check
Torque converter nuts
Gauges installed
Charge battery
Wire cooling fan and fuel pump
Fill fluids
Break in cam!!!
In reply to Dusterbd13:
And let me know when you are back in town so I can get over and try to finish up those door bars...
Ill be at the shop around noon Saturday and Sunday until it runs. Youre welcome to come over if you are free.
A 90-93 Miata driveshaft is ~34" center to center. Doubt that that's close enough, but you should be able to find one nearly free if you want to try hacking up the joints on it (and if you can't, I have 2 in the basement that are effectively scrap).
Dude......
Im going to revisit the driveshaft after the 8.8 swap. Pretty sure ill need something at 34ish inches. Im hoping it wont change to shorter, but......
Cage is finished and the wiring is done....
Update fully sometime this week when we stop working on it. So close to hearing it run....
Oh. We came up with some names:
Team: bad idea racing.
Car: Gary
Plenty of DIY driveshaft action on Pirate 4X4 forum. Probably stuff in YouTube also.
If it were me, I would do it with the angle grinder, chop-saw and Mig Welder.
I would rig up some way to hold the angle grinder steady with the blade perpendicular to the shaft. I would slowly feed in the weld on one of the yokes while rotating the shaft, probably supported on some wooden V blocks. Get a buddy to spin the one end so you can concentrate on the grinding action. I would of course use a narrow blade because I want to keep a sharp shoulder on the yoke by removing all of the original weld and not leaving a fillet.
Once the weld is ground out, use chop saw to shorten the tube. Install the yoke (remember to phase it with the other one) and weld the thing back together after doing 4 tacks and ensuring that it is square. (dial indicator helps here).
Tube might be a press fit, so freezer and torch to assemble?
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/245185-how-shorten-your-high-angle-driveline-home.html
Essentially what we did, only with plumbing tools instead of metalwork tools (except the welder and grinder). Figured its just highly accurate pipe, and thats what dallas has worked with since he was a kid. So....
Hopefully we can get this thing running and see if our homemade shaft is any food with the drive wheels up on stands soon.
Also found that if you want to skip the whole risk of dying while cutting the old yoke off with a deathwheel, a new one is under 30 bucks on e-bay.
Stupid berkeleying challenge car.
We were almost ready to fire it tonight. Then the oil pressure gauge died, we sprung a fuel leak at the carb, and my timing light is missing.
Starting to not be fun....
So what's the problem? That all sounds pretty normal to me. 
In reply to Crackers:
I know it is. Just getting burnt out and frustrated. So close to running and driving, but so far......
Both of our Challenge builds had a least one weekend where we said berk it we're going to step away for a bit. Sometimes it's the sane thing to do.
So. How's the Miata doing? My Father used to say, "How do you make rabbit stew? Catch rabbit first." Well you caught the rabbit. Sometimes a good stew has to simmer.
Yeah, think after the appointment with the scrutineer tonight its time to walk away for a minute. Finish up a couple of things on the miata, play my video game. Trying to get it done by sheer force of will ain't working.
You need mental time off. Whether that's doing something else, or just standing there drinking coffee (or whatever) and starting at it without feeling like you need to accomplish anything. Just slow time to collect your thoughts. Just for a bit.
In reply to mazdeuce:
Agreed. I may not touch this thing until next weekend.
The engine showed signs of life today. Few things to sort before we can break it in......
Its nasty sounding with the open headers.....
And we have a scca scrutineer coming tomorrow. Hopefully a logbook will follow....
In reply to Dusterbd13:
Awesome! Did you happen to get it on video? 
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