Volvo P1800ES...kinda

In reply to NOHOME:

If i had it to do over again with the duster, i would have taken this approach vs the hacked gm to megasquirt path i went down.

Your process makes much sense.

Starting to worry...The front dress is killing me. In particular the AC mount. I don't need the AC to work to win the bet,but the compressor needs to be in place so that I can route the belt. The E-bay vendor shipped me the wrong compressor and I am still deciding if that is a curse or a blessing.

If I am being honest, the $$$ is the least of my concerns...women not being like real people, and this one being a redhead, I am going to lose more than the cash if this thing does not make the 100 foot drive and back.

You can do 100 feet with the water pump driven by a harbor freight link belt driving the water pump if you have to.

Dont think RIGHT, think DRIVING.

Hell, for that matter you don't even need a water pump to go 200 feet.

hi.im the "minion'.ive been in here before like 300+ posts ago,not since.NOHOME and I share a lot of similarities on builds,but are wildly divergent on several things...yes I do sell stuff when it gets interesting for others,the MGBeast will probably be an exception to that "rule".itll be rough,balls out and not what most pansy asses nowadays will want,no top (at all),doors welded shut,no AC/PS/PW/PDL/PT/PA,just the baddest assortment of junk I can find around the shop to throw at it.To wit-- 351 Cleveland power with a 5 speed and an 8.8 SRA out back.think Cobra,yeah you got it.wish it wasn't such a PITA to post photos on this place id slam a bunch of cool stuff up,maybe I can figure that out later,im just a simple country farmer building cars.and I'm a HUUUUGE fan of holley carbs.lets see how this efi thing goes,i have too much experience with Ford's SEFI to recommend a 30 year old wiring harness to anyone,and by the time you get a painless kit youre creeping up on Atomic territory.conversely the carb that's going to first fire the Molvo is off my 69 Mustang Fastback,where it worked FLAWLESSLY.this is gonna be fun

oh and with the current belt configuration the belt will drive all the accessories with the AC sittin on the bench.just a shorter belt.then alt and water pump still function normally.

Minions never sleep...

Are you using the fox body serp set up? If so, I believe you'll need some sort of idler pulley in the a/c compressor location in order for the serp belt to clear the water pump when you're coming off the power steering pulley headed across to the tensioner/alternator.....for your temp start up.

already has one on a modified fox AC bracket,just to change direction.other option is crown vic pump,std rotation not reverse like fox pumps.but it has a fox on it,and side note--ive run fox pumps in std rotation and had no issues cooling,the impeller vanes on aftermarket 5.0 pumps are straight paddle wheels not curved vanes so they work wither direction,so itd probably work fine with a pulley swap (6 rib water pump on the vic smooth on the mustang),but fo now lets just do this and avoid shimming errything 1/4" for the vics longer pump nose and no I never sleep.

Regarding my fun with the AC compressor. I made a decision...

The mount looked and worked awesome. However, when the belt was tried out, it contacted the bolt (arrow) at the Alternator bracket. With no simple way around the problem, I punted for the time being. This is the path that I ended up with for the acceroy drive belt. Looks to have enough wrap to drive what needs driven.

The idler on the top LH side of the engine had to be added for the cause.

Why not put the A/C where they did in the fox body? It's ugly up there (don't ask how I know) - but you appear to have plenty of room. Then your serp will mimic the fox body without the smog pump (in your drawn A/C location).

One of the nice things about the swap on mine was ending up with much more obscure accessory locations - a/c and alt. VERY low and p/s about head high.

[URL=http://s937.photobucket.com/user/MichaelYount/media/LS3%20Engine%20swap/latest_zpsct7nducg.jpg.html][/URL]

Your upper alternator mount looks to be extended. Couldn't you hack, ERM, "clearance" the lower mount and re-drill it?

That could (would) effectively lower and reclock the front housing giving you loads of clearance.

the compressor in question cannot fit in the fox location,theres a whim wham on the back of it that interferes with the d side valve cover.so rather than just park a perfectly good compressor under the bench lets just finagle it into the vast open space under the alternator.He likes factory parts for replacement reasons and the "look".personally id scrap the giant factory alt bracket and clean sheet it,clean it up some more

MichealYount said: Why not put the A/C where they did in the fox body? It's ugly up there (don't ask how I know) - but you appear to have plenty of room. Then your serp will mimic the fox body without the smog pump (in your drawn A/C location).

That was the plan up until the Ebay vendor sent me the wrong compressor. Since returning stuff from Canada tends to be more expensive than buying another, I decided to see if I could make some lemonade out of the lemon. Having the ac compressor on the PS makes for much easier hose routing to and from the Miata evaporator.

Currently trying to find a local source for the transmission cooler line adapter from a straight pipe thread to -6AN

Crackers: Well spotted with the alternator. It is a GM 1 wire unit. The ford unit looked to require more wires than the local power grid, so this was a no brainer.

Im sure you've considered this already, but do you know the amperage rating on that alt? I know higher rated 1 wire apts are available, but most of the 1 wire GM units are 60a or there abouts, and I'd imagine you need closer to 80a at minimum.

I went from 65A to 95A to 130A with the 5.0L motor before we got enough juice to keep from killing batteries and having starting problems. 145A on the LS.

Crackers wrote: Im sure you've considered this already, but do you know the amperage rating on that alt? I know higher rated 1 wire apts are available, but most of the 1 wire GM units are 60a or there abouts, and I'd imagine you need closer to 80a at minimum.

Not of the top of my head,but I am not too worried... it was spec'd by the Minion, and knowing him, it will have enough power to light up a small city.

I am not an electrical engineer, but...

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml

"I am not an electrical engineer, but...." Someone stayed at a Holiday Inn Express recently. Nice article....

MichaelYount wrote: "I am not an electrical engineer, but...." Someone stayed at a Holiday Inn Express recently. Nice article....

On our three week trip, we stayed at seven Drury Inn's, a Home2 Suite, a Best Western, and a few Mom&Pop Motels along with the YMCA.

I'll give you a guess as to which one it was that we found soiled leopard print panties which were both extremely nasty and extremely large.

At any rate, I think I agree that a three wire installation is better, though I am not smart enough to explain why without asking the experts. No Holiday Inn's either!

Hey, as it turns out I is an electrical engineer, but that does not make me an alternator wiz! Never had to wire one in before. Maybe replaced one in my life.

Article said: 5) The ONE-WIRE system was designed and intended for limited applications, because not much knowledge is required for installation wiring. This is the only significant advantage of the ONE-WIRE, and it is a major advantage that has contributed much enjoyment to the sport of Hot Rodding. At least, the ONE-WIRE has provided a simple means of charging and maintaining the battery while driving. This is an important area that might have been troublesome for a lot of people,

The one wire was chosen because the Ford Altenator looked like a nightmare to wire in. Lot more than three wires and not of them looked like they wanted to play with the Miata harness that I am looking at using for this project.

The lack of a dash-light I was aware of. The remote voltage sensing? Not sure yet what they mean; have to spend more than 5 seconds reading the article.

Thanks for the article tuna, always good to know what you dont know.

You ask the alternator to sense voltage at some point on the harness REMOVED from the alternator output, and it regulates output to try and manage voltage at that point --- helps allow the alternator output try to manage some of the typical drops in the system.

Had to be the YMCA.....I didn't even know there were any of those left you could "stay" in....

My only experience is with the 3-wire version, installed in a Spitfire using an aftermarket harness. It's pretty damn easy and lights up the OE ignition light in the gauge cluster when things go awry.

I have to believe a Miata dash has a similar idiot light that serves the same purpose.

You're probably going to have to tear the Miata harness apart anyway to make it work in the Volvo body, so using a more common 3-wire alternator is going to be the least of your worries.

It appears I opened a can of worms. LOL

Crackers wrote: It appears I opened a can of worms. LOL

That is the fun of this.