alleykat Reader
Aug. 12, 2017 7:21 p.m.

Any body in the Richmond Va area willing to weld in new passenger sway bar mount? I have the part and will do all the grunt of cutting the old one out. I will be happy to throw some money/parts/beer/pizza your way. Otherwise could anyone recommend a mobile welder?

jfryjfry Reader
Aug. 13, 2017 8:19 a.m.

If you can get it to Los Angeles, I'd be happy to :)

JBasham Reader
Aug. 14, 2017 2:02 p.m.

If this is a tube strut housing with a removable Koni insert, cool. If it's another setup and the sway bar mount is on the actual shock body, I'm not even sure you CAN weld a new mount on there. I think the potential for heat-deforming the body tube would mess with the piston sealing ability whenever it hit the deformed spot.

The main reason I wouldn't do it, is I weld like a farmer. Which means sometimes I burn through. Which is bad when the other side is oil under pressure. If I found a talented TIG welder that was willing to take it on, I still wouldn't let him do it on my premises, but admittedly I'm being a pansy.

Ground Control used to sell a bolt-on sway bar tab/mount as a component of their coil-over conversion kits. You could call Jay and see if he would be willing to sell you one. I don't know of another supplier.

Robbie UberDork
Aug. 14, 2017 2:09 p.m.

Op- you're not talking about where the end links connect to the strut (m3) or the control arm (non m3) right?

You're talking about the mount that holds the bushings?

If you are talking about the end links connection, I recommend getting new m3 shocks and bolting them in. I see to remember that the non m front bar is actually bigger than the m3 version, because the m3 version bolts to the shock and has more leverage than the control arm mount. If you use a non m bar with m end links and shocks, you will get the stiffest front setup possible with factory stuff.

mad_machine MegaDork
Aug. 14, 2017 3:27 p.m.

I think the E36 tends to rot the mounts off of the body

JBasham Reader
Aug. 15, 2017 10:52 a.m.

D'oh! If OP means the stamped metal "cup" that is spot-welded onto the front frame tube to face the sway bar bushing bracket, that makes more sense. Sorry!

alleykat Reader
Aug. 17, 2017 12:52 p.m.
JBasham wrote: If OP means the stamped metal "cup" that is spot-welded onto the front frame tube to face the sway bar bushing bracket, that makes more sense.

That is exactly what I am talking about. It had rotted to the point that the bolts holding the sway bar bracket pulled through.

I found a local race car fabricator/builder who is welding on the replacement cup for $200.00 That seems like a very reasonable price to me.

That will allow me to get it inspected and back on the road.

mad_machine MegaDork
Aug. 17, 2017 6:40 p.m.

yes, E36s like to rot those away. Not a whole lot of protection for them from road salt, water, and grit coming off of the road

You'll need to log in to post.

Also on Classic Motorsports

Restoration Impossible: Finishing Off the Engine

26 minutes ago in Project Cars

We add the air box and air cleaner.

Basic Training: 10 Steps to Faster Laps

1 day ago in Articles

Driving Coach Peter Krause's 10 Steps to Faster Laps

Sporty Swede: The Volvo P1800

4 days ago in Articles

Beautiful Design Meets a Rock-Solid Chassis

Classic Motorsports Car Catcher: GSM Dart

5 days ago in News

The vintage racer you never knew you wanted.

Rare Bird: The Swallow Doretti

6 days ago in Articles

The Swallow Doretti May Look and Sound Italian, But It's British

Classic Motorsports Car Catcher: Beautiful Bugeye

1 week ago in News

Leake Auction Company is selling this 1960 Austin-Healey Bugeye Sprite this weekend.

Rally Revival

1 week ago in Articles

Pavement or Not, Porsches Have Found Victory

Birthdays

Mlassic Motorsports Magazine

Subscribe Today

Also get your instant access to the digital edition of Classic Motorsports Magazine!

Learn More
hETkZqIBBuJX0hxUhHESZGGo3m06I1Ma