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Ben_Modified
Ben_Modified HalfDork
9/13/18 4:18 a.m.
Pete Gossett said:

In reply to Ben_Modified :

I can’t imagine you’d notice any potential HP loss with that little of weight?

Are you heading over for Cruisin’ the Coast this year?

Yes, hurricanes permitting!

Pete Gossett
Pete Gossett MegaDork
9/13/18 5:40 a.m.

In reply to Ben_Modified :

Awesome! I’ll be here, and I’m just off beach Blvd. 765-7(one)4-(two)935

Ben_Modified
Ben_Modified HalfDork
9/13/18 4:23 p.m.

In reply to Pete Gossett :

Great!

 

Ben_Modified
Ben_Modified HalfDork
9/28/18 7:50 p.m.
Pete Gossett
Pete Gossett MegaDork
9/28/18 8:11 p.m.

In reply to Ben_Modified :

Nice! Are you still heading down to Cruisin’ the Coast?

Ben_Modified
Ben_Modified HalfDork
9/28/18 8:24 p.m.
Pete Gossett said:

In reply to Ben_Modified :

Nice! Are you still heading down to Cruisin’ the Coast?

Unlikely. Forecast: Rain most of the way there and rain most of the way back with some rain in MS. I wish they would move it to March...cool, very little rain, not hurricane season! 

Pete Gossett
Pete Gossett MegaDork
9/29/18 5:34 a.m.

In reply to Ben_Modified :

So true!

Ben_Modified
Ben_Modified HalfDork
9/29/18 5:33 p.m.

So I am looking for some radiator advice on the Hijet. When I added the transmission, I also installed a larger LS Swap style radiator  with both inlet and outlet on the passenger side. It is mounted in a laid down position, although about 10 degrees further from horizontal than the previous radiator setup. I am making the assumption that there is a divider in the radiator which separates the top half from the bottom half forcing the water across the rad to the other tank, then down and back across to the lower fitting. I am making this assumption based on the idea that the water would tend to fall from the upper inlet to the lower outlet mostly bypassing the rest of the rad if no divider exists ???. So in my orientation, both the inlet and outlet are on the high side of the radiator, both pointed towards the ground. The water enters the inlet on the driver side, flows down hill along the left side to the opposite tank and is then pushed up the right side to the outlet and to the base of the water pump thru the engine and back out thru the thermostat. The previous radiator setup was very similar except the the radiator outlet was on the low side of this scenario instead of the high side.  I currently have a fan switch in the steam port of the ls radiator (high side tank) which does not currently function to activate the fan (190 on 175 off).  My theory is that I have a large air pocket at the high end of the radiator. My fill neck is at the highest point of the system, but does not solve the issue of the air pocket.  I got the bright (not so bright) idea to use a burping funnel to try and get the air out but only wound up with a coolant volcano.

radiator puke by Ben Modified, on Flickr" />

20180923_112502_resized by Ben Modified, on Flickr" />

I completely ignored that fact that once the thermostat opened, it is easier to shove the coolant out of the fill neck than it is to push to coolant up hill and back to the water pump.

I am trying to decide if I should have a couple of drain valves added to the tank which is holding the air pocket in order to purge the air or if the idea of the water pump pushing water uphill is flawed and scrap the whole LS style setup.  Thoughts???

air pocket by Ben Modified, on Flickr" />

 

Pete Gossett
Pete Gossett MegaDork
9/29/18 6:24 p.m.

Did you remove the fan switch to confirm it’s in an air pocket?

Your idea sounds like the best option to me. The only other 2 ideas I have likely wouldn’t work due to packaging: 1.) flip the radiator around so the inlet & outlet are facing forward/toward the bottom of the cab, or 2.) get a different radiator(custom?) with the inlet and/or outlet on the side of the end tanks. 

Ben_Modified
Ben_Modified HalfDork
9/29/18 6:46 p.m.
Pete Gossett said:

Did you remove the fan switch to confirm it’s in an air pocket?

Your idea sounds like the best option to me. The only other 2 ideas I have likely wouldn’t work due to packaging: 1.) flip the radiator around so the inlet & outlet are facing forward/toward the bottom of the cab, or 2.) get a different radiator(custom?) with the inlet and/or outlet on the side of the end tanks. 

Thanks! There may be enough room to flip the radiator!  

XenaFordPrincess
XenaFordPrincess New Reader
9/30/18 8:09 a.m.

I would keep the radiator in it's current orientation and add purge valves.  I also would recommend adding a pressurized degas bottle/surge tank and remove the pressure cap from the upper hose.  At higher rpms the pressure surge in the upper hose can force the cap to open as it is now.  Maybe move the fan switch to the lower tank?  Finally,  using one of those vacuum purge refill kits would help to eliminate air pockets. 

Ben_Modified
Ben_Modified HalfDork
9/30/18 11:36 a.m.
XenaFordPrincess said:

I would keep the radiator in it's current orientation and add purge valves.  I also would recommend adding a pressurized degas bottle/surge tank and remove the pressure cap from the upper hose.  At higher rpms the pressure surge in the upper hose can force the cap to open as it is now.  Maybe move the fan switch to the lower tank?  Finally,  using one of those vacuum purge refill kits would help to eliminate air pockets. 

Thanks for the information! 

Ben_Modified
Ben_Modified HalfDork
9/30/18 12:12 p.m.

Unfortunately, the radiator cannot be flipped., so I did some experimenting earlier today. I removed the thermostat to allow filling without waiting on the thermostat to open. I re-installed the burping funnel and added a longer heater hose which I fastened up high. Then suctioned the heater hose back and forth a few times which released some large air bubbles. Ran the engine which stayed below 210 degrees in the driveway. If I held the idle up around 2k rpm, the temp dropped to 180. After shutting off the engine, I used a laser thermometer and measured several points. In contrast to the installed temp gauge which was reading 210. The side of the aluminum head, next to the temp sensor, read 175. The water neck was 165. The radiator tank nearest the inlet was 140 on the low side of the tank and 119 on the high side of the tank, just a couple of inches away, which makes me think there is still air in it. The far side tank was 90 degrees (also the side of the radiator where the electric fan is located) and then the radiator temps rise as the coolant approaches the outlet. The tank nearest the outlet was 120 on the low side of the tank and 115 on the high side. The outdoor temp was 87 degrees. Looks like I will take a trip to the radiator shop tomorrow to inquire re: moving the inlet and outlet to the end of the tank facing the engine and installing purge valves just for good measure. Then look into the degas tank. Any thoughts on the idea that coolant is moving too quickly thru the radiator without the thermostat? Also, any thoughts on drilling a small hole in the thermostat so that the radiator can be filled completely in the future without an initial warmup? Thanks!

Screen Shot 2018-09-30 at 12.14.25 PM by Ben Modified, on Flickr" />

 

air pocket by Ben Modified, on Flickr" />

Pete Gossett
Pete Gossett MegaDork
10/3/18 4:31 p.m.

I got to meet Mr. Ben and hang out with him at Cruisin’ the Coast this morning!

Ben_Modified
Ben_Modified HalfDork
10/3/18 4:38 p.m.
Pete Gossett said:

I got to meet Mr. Ben and hang out with him at Cruisin’ the Coast this morning!

Hi Pete. Had a great time today. Thanks for your hospitality!

XenaFordPrincess
XenaFordPrincess New Reader
10/3/18 8:19 p.m.

A small hole in the thermostat would definitely help with filling,  and it wouldn't cause any problems. The radiator outlet hose being higher than the water pump inlet is most likely trapping air and causing the pump to cavitate.  It might be easier to find a downflow type radiator with the outlet in the bottom tank and the inlet in the top tank. 

Ben_Modified
Ben_Modified HalfDork
10/4/18 7:12 a.m.
XenaFordPrincess said:

A small hole in the thermostat would definitely help with filling,  and it wouldn't cause any problems. The radiator outlet hose being higher than the water pump inlet is most likely trapping air and causing the pump to cavitate.  It might be easier to find a downflow type radiator with the outlet in the bottom tank and the inlet in the top tank. 

Thanks!

Ben_Modified
Ben_Modified HalfDork
10/6/18 8:29 p.m.
EastCoastMojo
EastCoastMojo Mod Squad
10/28/18 4:11 p.m.

Hey Ben, did you post an update today? Thread looks like it was updated by you about a hour ago but no new posts showing. Just checking to see if the forum is having an issue.

Ben_Modified
Ben_Modified HalfDork
10/28/18 6:02 p.m.
I tried numerous methods to post video several times today...each unsuccessful. Each time that the video did not appear in the post, I deleted it. Is there any way to get the Preview function back?
I think that I finally gave up and posted a link to the video with a photo, all of which seems to have disappeared.  To answer your question, I think so.  Thanks for checking
 
 
EastCoastMojo said:

Hey Ben, did you post an update today? Thread looks like it was updated by you about a hour ago but no new posts showing. Just checking to see if the forum is having an issue.

 

Ben_Modified
Ben_Modified HalfDork
10/28/18 6:08 p.m.
EastCoastMojo
EastCoastMojo Mod Squad
10/28/18 6:26 p.m.

The video embed feature is broken for the moment, so links are the way to go for now. Sorry for the inconvenience! smiley

Ben_Modified
Ben_Modified HalfDork
10/28/18 6:29 p.m.
EastCoastMojo said:

The video embed feature is broken for the moment, so links are the way to go for now. Sorry for the inconvenience! smiley

Thanks!

Pete Gossett
Pete Gossett MegaDork
10/28/18 6:31 p.m.

In reply to Ben_Modified :

That’s awesome Ben!

Ben_Modified
Ben_Modified HalfDork
10/28/18 9:02 p.m.
Pete Gossett said:

In reply to Ben_Modified :

That’s awesome Ben!

Thanks!

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