im not sure....
Definitely needs a taller rear tire. Front is right.
im not sure....
Definitely needs a taller rear tire. Front is right.
Rear with a little taller rear tire is golden
In reply to Professor_Brap (Forum Supporter) :
Dunno. I have it parked where i can stare out the window at it, and ill see what i think today.
Honestly though, i think the rear offset is wrong and thats what's throwing me off.
I'd go with a spacer in the back and the biggest tire that fits back there. I'm an 80s kid, big n the back, smaller up front is the way they are supposed to look in my mind
In reply to Justjim75 :
Already have one! It makes it work way better back there.
But definitely a taller tire. What im not sold on is the style. Its almost like the spokes are too wide. But i think they would look awesome on a first gen mustang!!!
Ill see what the tire shop has in 28 inch tall jusnk tires to try out before condemning them for sale.
Dusterbd13-michael said:
Definitely needs a taller rear tire. Front is right.
Taller and wider. All of the meat!
Glad to see you still making progress on this. Followed you on several other forums but updates haven't been ported there so I found you here and got caught up.
Went ahead of signed up (been a lurker for years) so I could comment.
Glad you are feeling more comfortable with the car, had some similar experiences with my car recently. Working to make it my daily to replace the Challenger I sold just over a year ago.
Keep it up. This is one of the builds that has kept me motivated over the years.
Dusterbd13-michael said:Nope. Ive NEVER run out of brake on this car. It hauls down very very well.
I have parts to convert to Corvette c5 calipers on 13 inch rotors up front. And don't think ill ever use them.
Word of warning, if you ever did do the c5 calipers, try and find one's that aren't spread. I've had 2 sets on my car (one used and the other "remanufactured") and neither would give full contact across the ouside pad. I think these calipers just seems to flair too easily or something. Very annoying.
Don't see anything that would make me think you ever would make the change, but thought I would point it out just in case.
I'm thinking about trying some later Challenger calipers since they are supposed to bolt to the C5 abutments. They have a bigger piston (I could use more front brake) and I am hoping the caliper is more rigid. But probably won't be until this winter if I do it. Need to drive the car right now, not take it apart.
In reply to DionR :
Im glad to see you here!
I more or less gave up on other forums. This place is all of them in one, full of good people and awesome builds.
Hopefully i didn't hurt the engine with the overheating. I want to drive it again! And fall is coming, which means i can finally enjoy cruise nights a d windows down driving again!
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Gotta agree with you on the builds here, been watching them for awhile now. Where else can you find a guy machining his own V12 for a Ferrari or building a complete car because he like the concept image. Really don't think there is another place with the builds this place has.
I'm working on swapping a Ram A/C box into my Duster (amongst the other upgrades) and it feels a little bit like telling a guy who chopped the top on his 50 Merc that I am putting a J.C. Whittney visor on my car. Polite nods and vacant stares ensue. 
In reply to DionR :
A ram ac box in a duster is right up the alley here! And definitely of interest to a few that are working on stuff with zero aftermarket.
Believe me. Post a thread and no one will complain!
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Not much to post yet. Seen it done (online) once and figured I would give it a shot since I can't afford the $1800 "kit" for my car that doesn't really fit. And I like the idea of using an OEM setup (lines, compressor, filter/dryer, condensor should all fit) that was designed for R134a from the start.
So far I've dug a box out of a rig at Pull & Save, mocked up some cardboard to get an idea of if it will even fit to my high (not so much) standards and started researching how to control the box without using the rotary knobs the truck comes with. It was only 2 or 3 weeks ago that I threw my hands up and moved A/C to the top of the list after 3 days of driving the car to Goodguys in close to 100 degree weather. At my normal rate of progress (13 years to use my C5 caliper adapters, etc.), I should have this done and ready to charge about 2030.
You know, im not sure ive ever seen the build thread on your car. If i have, i completely don't remember it!
Can you give me a link?
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Never done a build thread to link you to. Mostly because of the stupid long time it takes me to get anything done and use the stuff. Pretty sure the caliper adapters were 13 year, the pistol grip I laid out and had cut took 11 years (I think), but the battery relocation and wiring revisions only took 6 years so that was better. Kind of like watching paint dry, can't see anyone sticking around long enough to make it worth doing a build thread.
Motherberkeleying stupid motherberkeleying mopars and motherberkeleying aftermarket parts with stupid motherberkeleying designs....
Timing cover is the gasket failure. So i pulled it apart, cleaned everything up, repainted things, etc. Went to reassemble. Noted no holes for the retainer tabs in the oil pan. After everything is slathered in rtv. So i cut the tabs. Tried to put it together. Pushed the lip seal into the oil pan sump, smeared rtv all over hells half acre. So i went to grab the old lip seal, see if i could salvage the situation.
Thats when i noticed the old front pan seal was one part of a one piece gasket. That tore an inch down the rail between the pan and the block.
I gotta pull the pan now.
berkeleyity berkeley berkeley.
Been at it for the last two hours. berkeley this.
Im pissed. And going to work now.
This makes me really excited to drop the pan on the Cougar Michael!
Sorry to hear about this.
In reply to wawazat :
Hopefully yours will be easier on the lift. I have to essentially pull the engine to get the pan out for what I remember
Can you just drop the K-Member and keep the engine in place?
In reply to GPz11 (Forum Supporter) :
That's a path I'd considered previously. I just need to look at it closer and stop being pissed in formulate my plan
I picked up one of these to hold my engine while I had to swap out the pan.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html
it's out. New pan gasket is on it and our TV is curing. Time to walk away for a little while.
Hopefully she seals up tight. Seeing that makes me cringe. When I was chasing down the oil leak on the TR6, I had nightmare visions of pulling out the oil pan ending with me tearing the engine out with my bare hands.
This pan never leaked a drop. Which all but guarantees that it will now...
Had to pull both headers, steering likage, and distributor to get enough room to wiggle it out.
Header gaskets on order...
Pan leak was my issue too. Dropped the steering rack a bit, pulled the front anti-sway bar, and lifted the engine slightly to get it out. Hope it's all sealed up now.
In reply to wawazat :
The irritating thing was that it wasn't leaking before the timings cover gasket failed and i fubar'd the pan gasket fixing it.
Here's to hoping it doesn't leak this time....
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