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stitchit
stitchit New Reader
10/27/14 10:21 p.m.

Thanks Joe, I called Borla this morning and they referred me to Garry who explained all this to me, he is helping me with a few ideas, he said that Borla had scrapped his design but he still had the cast in storage. I have emailed Richard Good as we may be able to work the two of them together with a workable solution perhaps using Richards manifold and the Borla SU style bodies ... not the ideal solution but workable no the less. I will keep you posted

JoeTR6
JoeTR6 Reader
10/28/14 7:01 p.m.

Another idea I've considered is to use a Richard Good triple intake combined with three Stromburg carbs and the Patton Machine injection adapters. I have a box of old Stromburgs, and this seems like a cheaper way to go. You'd just need to make sure the throttle shaft sealing is in good shape. This would also make it easy to hook up a fast idle valve to the old bypass valve or choke ports.

stitchit
stitchit New Reader
10/30/14 7:47 p.m.

Hi Joe, I think what you have at present is better than that option, I spoke to Richard Good this morning and he has offered to weld in some injector bungs into his manifold down near the valves for me, so I can use just bolt on throttle bodies (of which there are many available). My only other option is to use the redline Webber manifold with the new Borla webber replacement 2900 injector bodies. The second option including the Borla Phelum box may be a tight fit in the TR6, which is why I like what you have. I have introduced Gary from TWM to Richard and they are looking at options to work together on either a 2000 series 3 Stromberg style system plugged into Richards Manifold or what I have described above with the 2900 series. What ever happens I would prefer to have the injectors as close to the Valve as possible for street use, whereas the 2000/2900 option would give better outright HP but so good on a day to day driver.

Electronics wise Megasquirt was my first option but as I was trying to have sequential injection, I have found both Emerald and NoDiz in the UK with very good options, Emerald especially has done 100's of TR6 EFI conversions similar to the 2900 series but using Jenvey bodies which are very expensive compared to Borla.

Still lots of options to look at, The Emerald I think offers the BEST ECU for the money for my needs just now, I can get the sparks sorted fairly quickly Which is where much of my engine issues problems lie and add the fuel injection later.

Greg

stitchit
stitchit New Reader
10/30/14 7:48 p.m.

Sorry I meant the triple 2700 Solex replacement bodies on Richards manifold.

stitchit
stitchit New Reader
10/30/14 7:49 p.m.

Patton is using Richards manifold with his system as well

stitchit
stitchit New Reader
11/8/14 11:48 p.m.

If you ever want to sell them please let me know. Regards, Greg

JoeTR6
JoeTR6 Reader
7/25/15 10:04 p.m.

I autocrossed this car today. It's amazing how well it runs. Even with an aggressive cam and high ratio roller rockers, it starts and idles very well. Power is consistent and plentiful (for a TR6). The only tuning issue left is that the fuel pressure regulator varies a bit in pressure, mainly when hot. Worst case, it runs a tad rich. We've run it at several events this year with many people driving it, and it just keeps working with no fiddling around. Isn't modern fuel injection wonderful?

JoeTR6
JoeTR6 Reader
3/13/16 7:25 p.m.

With our first autocross next weekend, I turned my eye back to this car. The brakes were not working so well at the end of last season. It felt like the booster was not doing much. Also, the cluster berkeley that is a remote brake fluid reservoir feeding a Jaguar brake master cylinder needed to go.

I checked the vacuum that we're getting from the intake, and it should be enough. The brake booster wouldn't hold more than 3" Hg of vacuum and was definitely bleeding down. I put a good used check valve and seal on the booster, and now it holds vacuum fairly well.

The next part I thought would be easy, but you know how that goes. I had bought a new stock master cylinder for my own autocross project. It's one of the TRW branded units probably made in China. It looks OK, but the bastard just wouldn't bleed properly. The rear circuit was fine, but every time I thought the front was clear, a bunch of air would belch through the bleed screw. We ran over a quart of fluid through the system, so I'm fairly certain it wasn't just trapped air. All of the connections were tight and not apparently leaking fluid. The pedal feel got worse the more we tried to bleed the system. At this point, I have to fault the new master cylinder. Are all of the "new" hydraulic parts for Triumphs such pieces of junk? The only plus I can think of is that they are fairly inexpensive, but I don't really want to risk using crap in a braking system.

Beradd
Beradd New Reader
7/17/16 12:30 p.m.

In reply to JoeTR6: What fuel pump is that? Does it feed the efi system well? I like how it looks much more compact and less weight than other efi pumps I see.

JoeTR6
JoeTR6 HalfDork
7/17/16 3:21 p.m.

That's a Walbro 190 lph inline pump. Summit has them for around $130, and it has been trouble free. The inlet and outlet are 10mm x 1mm female threads, so it was easy to find fittings to match. We've had no issues with fuel flow, even with the rail pressure set to 60 psi to increase the maximum injector flow. If you need bigger, Walbro makes a 255 lph pump for not much more, but it also draws more current.

Beradd
Beradd New Reader
7/22/16 12:26 a.m.
JoeTR6 wrote: My favorite picture of the car in action. Notice any chassis flex? Running fully sequential injection required a cam sensor. Using an old distributor with a single-tooth wheel worked pretty well. The fuel tank is from the UK. I wish I could weld aluminum that cleanly. Details of the throttle body. Notice the vacuum manifold. The throttle linkage is underneath, but the original setup didn't clear the tubular exhaust manifold. The only way I could see to route it was to pull from the front. TWM really should have reversed the butterfly rotation and made the linkage pull towards the rear.

Now that is neat! Look at the daylight under the right front tire! My TR gets all flexed up too. 'Just curious how you done the crank trigger tooth wheel up front with any pictures. I have LS2 coils to use for now.

JoeTR6
JoeTR6 HalfDork
7/22/16 7:25 a.m.

The front tire lift has been reduced since then by changing the rear from 470 lb/in to 600 lb/in springs. Less squat under hard acceleration. Now it will lift the rear if you let off the throttle in a turn, but that can help swing it around tight corners. So I now brake earlier, get the car turning, and balance it through a corner with the throttle.

Here are some pics of the crank trigger setup during the engine rebuild. It's the same now except for swapping a Hall-effect sensor for the VR sensor shown.

CrankTriggerFront CrankTriggerSide

The original fan mount was cut off and milled down to space the trigger wheel from the pulley. A couple of set screws keep it in place while the crank bolt is torqued. This was originally used with an old Electromotive HPV ignition, but it also works with a Megasquirt. We changed to a Hall-effect sensor (from diyautotune) to avoid issues with calibrating the VR sensor and it seems less sensitive to electrical noise.

Mezzanine
Mezzanine HalfDork
7/22/16 11:29 a.m.
JoeTR6 wrote: We changed to a Hall-effect sensor (from diyautotune) to avoid issues with calibrating the VR sensor and it seems less sensitive to electrical noise.

Have you found any difference in cranking time switching from VR to Hall?

JoeTR6
JoeTR6 HalfDork
7/22/16 7:32 p.m.

Not that I remember. It starts fairly fast when warm with the Hall sensor. The VR sensor definitely didn't like the radiator fan motor sitting just in front of it.

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