1973 IH Travelall - Family Cruiser, Big project....

In reply to NOHOME :

Yep, got it in the guide coat. 

I do have some durablock, but need the big boy, iirc I only have an 18 or 24

Started on the EFI and wiring last night.

Step one, find a spot to drill a 2" hole in the firewall. The factory AC EATs a lot of space behind the dash. My lord its huge. All the heater ducts have become paper scraps and slinkys also....

Probably didn't need the "long" harness LOL

Octopus spread out, ignition control and coil mounted

Crimped up some new battery leads, engine ground and starter cable. All 4ga thin stranded copper.

All in place, just need to hook up the factory stuff now. I need coil + and the starter circuit to the solenoid.

Then I mounted one of the collectors..... Exhaust is going to be a challenge.... Literally on the engine crossmember.

Is this a valve cover vent? Threads are correct, and its curved the right kinda direction.

The last set of headers that I bought came with a very tight bend that fit the header ball. Looked like this but with the flange on one end. Might be what you need to navigate around the crossmember.

Failing that, what are your exhaust manifold options?

In reply to NOHOME :

I may be able to weld an elbow on right after the o2 bung, but its going to be tight.

There are 3 bolt flange headers available, but I think they may dump even closer to the crossmember, or in the same spot anyway.

Some sleuthing says my valve covers are definately on backwards.... Grrr. You can get them off with the accessories on!

Good news is its clean, and looks like the PO adjusted the valves (or popped the rockers off and greased them?) 

Flipped around. Much more logical.

java230 said:

In reply to NOHOME :

I may be able to weld an elbow on right after the o2 bung, but its going to be tight.

There are 3 bolt flange headers available, but I think they may dump even closer to the crossmember, or in the same spot anyway.

Move the o2 bung downstream after the sharp radius bend you need just off the collector to clear the crossmember. Within ~18 inches of the exhaust port is what i am told is the sweet spot for them. Closer is ok, further back (likr the 5 feet on my challenge car) ain't .

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :

May have to, its about 2" down from the flange right now. 

Talked to an exhaust shop, guessed at 900 for a 2.5" dual system. Im looking at ~$300 in materials and my time.....

In case you haven't noticed yet. The engine is timed off of #8

I built everything from the heads to the back bumper on the miata. Headers, y pipe, exhaust. Its just a matter of connecting the dots. 

Ports, bends to change direction to miss stuff, mufflers, tips. Then add straight sections.

Id have to imagine using newparts would be easier and quicker than cutting up used headers and exhaust to get bends and straights. But if i can do it, anyone can.

In reply to ShawnG :

Yep! Its even written on the valve covers!

One question tho..... For timing, if #8 is at TDC, where the rotor is pointing would be the lead for #8 then go clockwise in the firing order correct?

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :

I'm sure I could do it.... Its just a matter of doing it with the thing 16" off the floor and my time, vs paying the pro. Speedway has kits for ~220$, plus hangers.

If the distributor rotates clockwise, yes.

You can time an engine off of any cylinder as long as the timing mark is set for that particular cylinder on TDC compression.

In reply to ShawnG :

OK, I should be ok then.... cyl 1 is marked on the cap, but its different on the two caps I have.... Im going to assume I am right and going to use the rotor to point to #8. We will see when it cranks.

The cap has multiple applications, it's either a Holley or a Prestolite distributor so a bunch of manufacturers used it.

Internet lore says the Holley units fail pretty regularly. I had a Prestolite on my Scout and never had an ounce of trouble.

FWIW, the valve covers on a Scout are installed the way yours were with the filler at the back. This is because the Scout has the hood hinged at the front. I swapped mine around because the booster got in the way and it was easier to fill from the other side.

In reply to ShawnG :

Good to know! Yeah filling it would have sucked with the booster there.

The dist is marked IH but I have zero clue who's it is. But its all EFI converted now.

Have had nearly not time in the garage. Got 10 mins yesterday. 

New 10ga feed from the alt to the Starter Solenoid. Feels small.... Now that I look at my go to char after I did it....  I realize its 61amps at full song, swap it or leave it?

And my new puke tank showed up. Amazingly nice for how cheap it was. Factory one is just huge and hideous. $23 literally in stainless. https://amzn.to/32IcpgR

I would upgrage the 10ga from your alternator now, that way if you swap in a higher output alternator you don't have to re-wire 

In reply to kellym :

Not a terrible idea, it is only a 10 inch piece though.

Being a 61 amp alternator, should I assume 40 is a realistic kind of Max number? I don't expect this engine to see red line much

In reply to java230 :

Alternator output is not closely related to engine RPM. Alternator output is related to load, so after a long cold crank it will put out all 61 amps by the time the engine is turning 1500 RPM. That will drop as the battery recovers. Most automotive alternators are able to put out maximum amps by only a little above idle.

In reply to TurnerX19 :

Good to know, I thought it was based on RPM a fair bit!

Ok working on the TA again!

Butttt I can't get a crank!

Power is back fed thru the pass side of the BHC. I get power at coil +, just no crank. Is there a neutral safety switch somewhere?! 

Well yesterday was frustrating. Shrunk wrapped the boat so I could tuck it outside and get some more room in the garage. Pulled all the crap that had been stacked all over and around the boat out of the garage, pulled my other trailer out of the spot behind the garage (which requires pulling in and backing out perpendicular to a busy 2 lane road), got the boat out of the garage, which requires being done by hand, as my truck can turn it tight enough, there is about 3" clearance between the fender and the IH, when its touching the other wall..... Scratched the IH.... Hooked the boat up to the truck, got it backed behind the garage.... Kinda. Its too damn long. I can close the gate.... UGH. Reverse all those steps to put it right back in the garage where its in the way.... /ENDRANT 

That killed 3.5 hours. Its been COLD and that has killed garage motivation, so I cleaned off the top of the pellet stove, fired it up and went inside to make dinner and consume malt beverages.

Disaster...

The stove takes awhile to get warm, but works quite well.

So I set around to getting something done. Fuel lines. They are ran front he tank and hooked to the TBI!

Clip on tank side fittings

Trans cooler lines done

PO had one bolt in the fan, glad I caught that.... But then realized perhaps the belts dont fit over it? We will find out, its bolted back on.

Put 6quarts dino squeezings in the engine, and cranked it over a few times wo/ fuel or spark just to get some oil moving again. Put 3 quarts in the trans, anddd what do you know the pan is leaking.  Looks like the gasket got funny in one spot when the PO installed it.

And now that I have power, this light on the dash is always on.... Key on or off. Anyone know what it is?

I will randomly and wildly guess it's the high beam light because your light switch is on and (floor mount?) high beam switch has been stomped on? (No actual experience with that year IH.)

color-blind detector.   congratulations, you pass!

Is it attached to the dome light circuit?

In reply to Sparkydog :

Hmmm possible!

In reply to AngryCorvair :

:D

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :

No idea. 

I was suggested on the IH forum that its turn signal indicator and perhaps my hazards are on but with no other lighting it does not flash.