In reply to Daylan C :
The sniper
In reply to Daylan C :
The sniper
In reply to ebelements :
I LOVE the Detroit smoothies! But they are super $ summit carries a similar one for much less. But 17".
I'm probably staying manual for now. I have all the parts. I would love a key fob tho....
Anyone else have thoughts on Holley vs GM TBI? I want to get that ordered asap. Also need to figure out fuel tanks....
Personally id go holley. Ive done both.
And look at tanks inc for in tank pump.
Never dealt with the Sniper but the Terminator setup on my friend's car was a really easy install. I'd probably go sniper if you say it's the same money.
This project rules. Also, I fully support the factory color. You could de-chrome, and sell all that trim...
I also think it looks kinda cool on the factory wheels, but those Detroits would up the coolness.
Carry on.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Only reason I am thinking of the TBI as its plug and play..... And I could that it looks like. And the custom dizzy, not hard to build, but come with it.
As to tanks, the stock ones are not in good shape. I measured, and under the floor I have 28W x 21 long, ~8" deep ideally. Any ideas?
In reply to Daylan C :
Good to hear.
In reply to wheelsmithy :
Thanks! Im REALLY excited!
Went thru all the trims, most are aluminum, the gutter trims are stainless. a few of the alu ones are a little beat. Am I crazy of thinking of filling all the trim holes are running none?! Any easy way to acomplish that that I dont know of?
Got it all unpacked. A sheet of plywood will fit inside with the tailgate closed :D its 8'4" long!
Guess I am learning to make hard lines.... Flare tool suggesion?
And... Shouldn't this have a crossmemeber at the back of the trans?
In reply to java230 :
I've never seen any finished vehicle that didn't have a crossmember there. Looks like you've got a crossmember to build too.
In reply to Daylan C :
That was my thought as well. Should be easy tho.
Mastercool flare tool is one of the best choices of tools i ever made. I have never regretted spending the money.
java230 said:In reply to Daylan C :
That was my thought as well. Should be easy tho.
Build one if you need to (because lowered), but Phil at Coonrod's IH will have a stock one he can ship to you for pretty cheap.
The Sniper gets my vote. It’s been great on my k10.
I second Duster's recommend for the Master Cool brand flaring tool kit. I have used several others in the past 1/2 century, all are blown away by the Master Cool. You still need to make nice perpendicular cuts and de-burr them, but the actual flaring is magically easy.
Third on Mastercool Kit. It’s what I use.
This mastercool kit?
Or do I dare try to reuse the original line?
In reply to java230 :
All metal filler is an easy way to fill holes.
In reply to java230 :
This kit does SAE inverted aka “double flare”, plus the ISO / JASO “bubble flare”, plus the push-connect GM fuel line, plus auto trans flares which must be different somehow? Recent purchase at about $300 on Amazon.
In reply to bigfranks84 :
Does that actually work?! Everything I am reading says weld.... I should count the holes.... I bet its more than 100.
In reply to AngryCorvair :
Yikes thats $$$, any thoguhts on the little version? Not sure I want to spedn $300 for maybe 6 flares?
Tried to get a good shot of the rear. Its pretty nice looking, beefy trailing arms, bag mounts and a new panhard. A couple welds look a little cold, but not terrible. Im going to need to nut and bolt the whole thing.... Lots of finger tight, and not quite enough threads on a few bolts.Pretty damn clean underneath.
Not in love with that panhard bar bracket design. There is a lot of force on those things and that looks like it is going to fall off. It needs some kind of saddle mounting around the frame. Also there is going to be some kind of side-load on the bracket and what I see is not prepared for that.
And directly above the airbag: There is a black sliver that could be paint but looks like a giant crack in the frame.
In reply to NOHOME :
Yeah that is where the "cold weld" is also. Thanks for the eyes on it!
Here is my thinking. Wrap the side of the frame and weld to the existing plate. For the other direction simple gusset at 90 degrees?
Nice IH!!
that tapered "crack" above the air bag is an illusion, caused by the open "C" frame behind the last cross-member.
It's the tapered bottom of the cross-member as it tucks up inside the frame for strength.
and the floating transmission may be from the fact that a lot IH's had 4 motor mounts, one at each corner of the engine, just like 55 to 57 Chevies.
I would be a lot more worried by the triangulated rear control arms, as they form some very stiff, short ladder bars, and will turn the rear end into one humongous anti roll bar, well at least until the center housing cracks in half.
I vote for two-tone Green, no wood, but the trim stays.
I knew a guy had one of them, a 68 I think, painted two-tone blue, had a 1958 Chrysler 392 Hemi with 2 carter AFB's, a granny low 5 speed out of God knows what, and Dana 60 w/Detroit locker from a ford F250 and 3.00 rear gears and L60-15's on 8" rims all the way around. it would lay rubber until you ran out of gas.
that thing will be a blast and you'll make new friends where ever you go.
keep the shiny side up!!
OD
Interesting project! When I was a youngster I rode around in the back of a 1970 2wd Travelall on family road trips. It was the first vehicle my dad bought brand-new, and he even special ordered it in the build he wanted. 345 V8, 5-speed with a creeper first, 2wd, fairly tall final drive, dual fuel tanks, aaaand dark metallic green with a white roof! Dad later installed a third row seat, custom front airdam, maplight on the passenger end of the front bench, amber marker lights, roof-mounted airhorns (!!) and dual exhaust. I can still remember the pop and crackle it made on the overrun! 
He wanted to maximize fuel economy for family road trips...which I think might clawing it up to 12ish MPG from a 9ish MPG for a more standard build. I also have memories of him goading commercial truckers and even a locomotive once with his pull-cord manipulation of the airhorn.
Once I was of driving age, I got some real lessons attempting to drive it! The non-assisted brakes were marginal, the non-assisted steering put my scrawny teen beanpole arms to the test, and the non-synchro creeper first and massive floor-mount shifter throw meant that starting in second was the smart move, even with the tall axle ratio. It also helped school me in chokes and proper engine warm up with a carb.
In any case, thanks for the stroll down memory lane, and I will be following with interest to see where it goes.
Welding trim holes is the best way. But all metal filler is waterproof once cured and you aren't introducing heat and sparks (unless you tig). I've used it to fill holes on many vehicles over the years.
If I was doing an allout full resto I'd weld. If not, I'd slap it on and move on. But I make no claims of being a body man, just that I've used it and it holds up.
In reply to OldDave :
Hi Dave! Thanks for chiming in! I did check, no crack, its just the way the paint and the two halves of the frame come together I think.
Forgot to look at the motor/trans situation.
On the rear end, it seems to be a pretty common drag link setup, there are bushings at all the connections. Dont think it will flex enough? I know it wont move as much as the old leaves, but travel is also a bit more limited now.
In reply to ae86andkp61 :
Sounds like a pretty awesome family car! Thats what I am headed for too! Maybe even an air horn..... Under the hood though. I have power brakes, factory disks too in the front! and power steering, but its still a lumbering beast.
In reply to bigfranks84 :
I counted the holes just for fun..... 62 per side. I have some other welding to do..... Maybe I should just shave the trim...... Its only a couple more days welding :D
Had a few more minutes yesterday.
Scrap from shed made jack stand cribbing.
Why must you use such weird ass gas tanks?!
Popped the sending unit to look inside.
Pretty crusty..... Think it will clean up?
Popped the front end apart. No brake hard lines.... And fitting a shock is going to be interesting. Rotor on the drivers side is pretty grooved. Debating replacement.
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