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ViperT4
ViperT4 New Reader
12/12/21 9:13 p.m.
TurnerX19 said:

In reply to ViperT4 :

If that is as small as I think, it is a choke or throttle cable end clamp. Usually they have a hex head, but someone didn't have such when they lost(or broke) it, so straight blade it was.

AH, that could very well be it. I was thinking it was maybe bleed valve for the coolant system but I haven't worked on the cooling system yet and it is definitely the right size to be a cable clamp. I will check things out the next time I'm around the carbs and throttle linkage. Thanks!

ViperT4
ViperT4 New Reader
2/17/22 8:06 p.m.

Nearing the last phases of moving so progress has still been slow, but gladly there's still some. I got the fuel and brake lines plumbed and fixed to the chassis. I also de-grossed the interior. so it's down to clean glass and vacuumed out, ready for new a new interior whenever I get to that point. It's due to be transported in the coming weeks from NY to the new house in WI.

I've also been working with Rimmer Bros on the right front hub assembly. I purchased their upgraded front hubs and stub axles. The left side seems fine. There is very little to no play in the hub and the wheel spins freely. The right side exhibits rocking that concerns me. I would say there is very little lateral in/out end play in the hub, but I can rock the wheel left/right or up/down a great deal. It's similar to what you would see from a bad ball joint, except it is only the wheel and brake disc moving in relation to the upright. The right side wheel also rotates significantly less free than the left side.

I followed the installation procedure when I initially installed them some months ago and redid it a couple days ago with the same results. If I go one tooth more on the castle nut the bearings bind and the wheel does not spin freely at all. Their vendor said the most likely cause would be the axle not engaging the taper of the vertical link. I checked that today and saw no odd witness marks on those surface. The axle looks perfectly perpendicular to the flat face of the vertical link.

I took a video of the action. I've never had a vehicle where the wheel bearings were adjustable so I'm not very familiar, but am I crazy or is this way too much play:

https://youtu.be/vYXHWJ8U0qU

TVR Scott
TVR Scott SuperDork
2/18/22 2:08 p.m.

Holy crap!  That's a huge amount of play!  Clearly something is wrong there.

You might be able to use a square on the upright to see if the stub axle is coming out at an angle.  Rolling the stub-axle on a flat surface would probably show if it is crooked.

Good luck with the move.  I have so much heavy junk that moving has just become impossible.

ViperT4
ViperT4 New Reader
2/18/22 8:19 p.m.

I disassembled both hubs just now. I left the inner bearings in place with the seal because I won't have time to source replacement seals before it gets transported. I did compare the fitment of both bearings of the good hub with the questionable hub and both seemed to contain the bearings at the same depths, etc. Everything fits well when assembled by hand.

I then decided to swap the left and right hubs to see if the problem followed or not. The problem did not, so I believe pretty firmly there actually is something off about the fitment of the axle within the upright on the right side, despite not being able to tell with the naked eye. The axle is secure in the upright and does not wobble with the amount of force I can apply by hand. I also measured the distance the hub protrudes from the caliper mounting bracket and the left and right sides were with .05mm of each other. However I did see that the dished area of the caliper bracket (immediately surrounding the axle) had uneven witness marks whereas the one of the left side had an even ring around the whole axle stub. SO, either the axle itself is slightly cockeyed in the upright, or maybe the caliper mount is slightly uneven. I did tighten the caliper bracket bolts as tight as I was comfortable doing with no effect.

ViperT4
ViperT4 New Reader
2/20/22 10:23 a.m.

Loaded up, and looks like it's in good company with the TR4 in the right color above it!

Stu Lasswell
Stu Lasswell Reader
2/22/22 6:21 p.m.

Good luck with your move.  Seems like you're moving from a cold place to a colder place... bu then I've always lived in the southern half of the country, albeit nearly coast to coast!

ViperT4
ViperT4 New Reader
2/23/22 11:02 a.m.

And delivered. Props to Passport Transport, and Dennis the driver in particular. Dealing with them was easy and they gave me as much notice as possible knowing that I had to hire a rollback to get the car from my garage to the meeting location with the hauler. During delivery, the driver, Dennis, was able to back the hauler up directly to the garage at the end of a cul de sac, UPHILL, immediately after an ice storm. For $1,355 I'd say it was money well spent.

Picture courtesy of my dad who met the truck driver, as I'm still in NY completing the process of selling my house. Not sure what the neighbors thought, if anything. We may officially be "those people" now, or will be by the time my other toys come out of hibernation in the spring.

 

New home, awaiting the rest of the mess:

 

Thanks for the well wishes Stu and Scott. I do admit it's this time of year where I wish I lived more south, but during the summers I'm glad it's less humid up here. And after being gone for 5+ years it'll be nice to be back home amongst family and old friends so it could be worse.

Slow_M
Slow_M Reader
3/12/22 11:16 a.m.

In reply to ViperT4 :

If you’re up for sharing, I’d love a copy of that excel file as well! 

Slow_M
Slow_M Reader
3/12/22 11:38 a.m.

Congratulations on getting through the worst part of moving. 

I’ve read the post about the movement in/around the hub multiple times, now, and I still don’t understand exactly what’s going on. What differentiates the Rimmer Bros. setup from original? Regardless of whether it aligns with the hole in the stub axle, can you get the nut snug enough to eliminate the play? 

ViperT4
ViperT4 New Reader
3/15/22 9:42 a.m.

Slow- I think the Rimmer Bros hub is similar in design to the factory hub but is uses different bearings and modern seals, plus a much thicker axle to eliminate brake pad knock-back due to axle flex.

Something seems to be misaligned, preventing me from eliminating play. I can either get two conditions: 1) wheels spin freely but rock back and forth relative to the upright  2) axle nut tightened to eliminate play but wheel binds or is completely unable to turn.

I'm sure you know there should be a happy medium between the two where there is virtually no play but the wheel spins readily. I was able to set up the driver's side just fine. As best as I can determine the axle itself is located correctly within the upright. Others have suggested ensuring the caliper bracket bolts are sufficiently tightened and I think they are, but I am wondering if when I painted then I created an uneven surface and cause it to sit a little cockeyed relative to the upright. This could cause interference with the hub. I'm only halfway through organizing my new garage so I haven't been able to work on the car yet, but hopefully before long I'll be able to make some more progress.

Slow_M
Slow_M Reader
3/20/22 11:25 a.m.

I’d remove the caliper before re-testing.

ViperT4
ViperT4 New Reader
4/4/22 8:52 p.m.

Well I played with things some more. First was to recheck things without the caliper attached as suggested. This made no difference.

Second I took some 120 grit sandpaper to the mating surfaces of the upright and caliper bracket to remove any uneven or excess paint. This also made no difference.

 

Last thing I did was remove the hub seal and inner bearing to compare to the outer bearing and confirm whether they are the same like I thought. They appear virtually identical but one seemed just a few mm shorter so I figured I would go ahead and swap them. This made a very slight difference but I'm not considering the issue resolved.

I was able to set the outer hub nut so that play in the hub was all but eliminated. It does not spin as freely as the left front wheel but it is better than previous at this level of play in the hub.

https://youtube.com/shorts/pM1GADzlXgs?feature=share

That video is with a medium amount of force applied to the wheel. It completes a few rotations and obviously is fighting some friction. The left front wheel spins much, much longer with the same amount of force applied.

Thoughts at this point? I'm either going to continue with the restoration and revisit the situation once I begin to drive, or order whole new uprights/brake brackets/hubs. There's only so many ways things parts can be assembled and reassembled, I may just chalk it up to variance stacking and hope a different combo of parts fixes it, or see if the bearings loosen up with a few miles since they're supposed to be readjusted anyway.

TVR Scott
TVR Scott SuperDork
4/11/22 5:40 p.m.

Seems like it's gotta be something wrong with the axle kit.  Try swapping the axles from one hub to the other.  If the problem stays with the axle that's the issue.  If it moves to the other axle then the hub is probably machined wrong.

I guess the other possibility is that your upright is damaged.  My guess is you got a bad axle kit.

ViperT4
ViperT4 New Reader
4/13/22 5:25 p.m.

Thanks Scott. I did try moving the hub from one side tot he other and the problem stayed with the right front corner. I have a new axle on order anyway to to me gorilla-ing the threads off the rear axle nut side with my impact before moving. Will see if that's an improvement when it arrives. Or the axle could just not be locating itself 100% correctly in the upright for some reason. I'll continue to evaluate.

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