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¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UberDork
8/14/19 6:47 a.m.

Power steering- you're totally right that under ideal conditions it doesn't matter.  The only times I'd really worry are when the suspension takes a big hit, or you land a jump all cattywampus, or you put a wheel in a ditch and hit a rock- but you can totally run without it and see how it goes, it's one less thing to fail.  I'd make sure you've got enough upper body strength to drive it for 18 hours straight and go for it.

Quick fix spares- bolts, obviously, but Josh can fill you in on which ones an e30 needs to carry.  I also really like having a ratchet strap or two (hold stuff on, in a pinch keep the motor/diff/something else in place), some quick splice/scotchlok connectors for quick wiring repairs, and self-fusing silicone tape and various hose clamps for plumbing repairs.  Those things have kept us on the road in lots of scenarios where we otherwise would have DNF'd.  Also easy to have bundles of zipties attached to the cage and something under the hood for quick access.

I also really like to carry extras of anything light and simple that will stop the car if it dies- a fuel pump, spare relay, ignition coil, etc. don't weigh much but can end your rally quickly.

irish44j
irish44j MegaDork
8/14/19 7:13 p.m.
artur1808 said:

In reply to irish44j :

 Wouldn't you have the same problem of pins/hinges not lining up if you hit something with the factory setup?

yes, but if my pins don't line up, the hood will still be attached to the car. Worst case it bangs up and down over bumps. More likely I throw a quick ratchet strap from each wheel arch across the hood and keep going. 

Note, I only have pins at the front to keep it "latched" - the rear are still the factory roller thingies. 

The front of car access is a valid point I suppose. I"ve never really had any issue with it though. Not like I'm changing radiators out on stage :)

Side note: hood has to be removed regardless. Hood must be openable from outside (i.e. latched with pins, a strap, etc). The factory latch (and cable, and pull) are easy deletes :)

I agree that rally cars are rarely light, especially at the grassroots level. However, my mentality has been that if I can reduce the weight a bit or take steps to improve front/rear balance of the car, why not? In the case of engine bay weight reduction (hood hinge/latch, power steering, ABS, etc) these are all things that (in my opinion) aren't necessary. Obviously a big skid plate, skid reinforcement, lights, etc will add a bunch of weight, but if I can offset some of that, I might as well.

yep, I'm just saying don't just eliminate weight for the sake of lightness if it compromises other things. If you reduce weight via doing things you're gonna do for another reason, that's obviously just a bonus :)

I actually enjoy not having power steering; I've daily driven and rallycrossed a bunch of miatas without power steering and got used to it. Even at stage rally speeds a few weekends ago when I took the car up to northern michigan for some "testing", I didn't have any issue with it. It's really only noticeable at parking lot speeds in my opinion. 

You'll notice it when you hit a large object, rut, etc at speed and it rips the wheel from your hands. I damn near broke a finger rallycrossing on a rutted course in Eisele's non-power-steering e30. PS isn't there to make it easier to parallel park in stage rally, it's there to reduce large shocks that can actually hurt your hands/wrists if you're not in perfect grip form.  Also, it's a LOT of driving at high-stress. I liek to think I have relatively strong arms, and they're very tired by the end of  a rally WITH power steering. 

On the topic of gear/tools in the car, what sorts of small parts/bolts do you carry?

What I did in the Jetta and intend to do in this car is to carry spare, jack, impact, fuses, basic tools, ibuprofen, and water. (in addition to the first aid kit and whatnot that are required) What do you carry in terms of quick-fix items and nuts/bolts? I've always thought it would be good to have a variety of hardware, but haven't given much thought to what that should be and how I'd organize it. 

 

I'll pull out my kit and write it down if I get a chance. Luckily e30s use a lot of the same size stuff throughout, and in most cases a longer bolt can sub in for a shorter one. So I tend to carry a couple nuts and bolts of each regular e30 thread, maybe in a couple lengths. A couple CV axle bolts, a couple nuts and bolts for the exact DS/guibo length (trust me on this one). And a few other random bolts and washers for things like my skidplate or underbody sheeting (when you do this, try to use the same size bolts as used elsewhere on the car - 17mm head like your lugs, whatever size (M12, I think?) for the skid, etc). If you need to drop it on stage (or replace bolts that fall out), it's good to make it something you can do with your impact/tire change tool with no changes. 

I have a few little containers with electrical fittings and other small things, hose clamps, The "parts box" also has a small multimeter (HF), a roll of Gorilla tape, a c0uple bungees and ratchet straps, and random other stuff. And I carry a small HF air compressor. This is all in that "tackle-box" thing I spent a long time looking for that fits perfectly in the e30 stock battery tray in the trunk , if you remember from my thread. Zipties ziptied to the cage. a little roll of bailing wire ziptied to the cage (you WILL want this when you are draggin exhaust!) 

Tools - we have a tool roll with basically only sizes that we need for the e30. 10, 13, 17, 19. plus some standard tools (adjustable, vise grip, screwdrivers, snips, etc). Nothing fancy. It's the same roll I throw in the Porche for road trips (except I add 14mm since the P-car has a lot of those, lol). 

We have a cheap wally world backpack strapped to the cage in the back seat to toss a spare pair of socks in, some snacks, bug spray, ibuprofen, an extra bottle of water, and maybe a raincoat if it's a wet event, or a hoodie if it's a winter event. Occasionally i'll throw some  small part in there that I suspect may be going bad (idk, fuel pump once). 

I take some E36 M3 from some rally friends about the gear I carry, sometimes. But I'm there to finish, not shave 1 second  per stage off by not taking 1lb of nuts and bolts. Hell, we've even carried two spare tires on some occasions (especially winter rallies since we're using street snow tires). The guys who make fun always seem to be the guys that, sure, are fast, and also DNF half the time. screw that.........

 

irish44j
irish44j MegaDork
8/14/19 7:26 p.m.

ok, I went out and pulled our parts box. Mostly because I almost forgot what's in there haha. This is a pretty neat (and VERY tough) all-weather tackle box that is rigid enough to strap down and not crack or deform. 

And it fits in the stock battery tray location nicely (I did a lot of measuring to find this)

So inside the main area, there are two swing-out tackle trays. I got rid of one of them (they pull right out). The other has random stuff....larger bolts, spare switches, some nitrile gloves, etc.

Underneath that (not pictured) is a spool of 14-16 ga wire, gorilla tape, silicone hose tape, little multimeter, and littel air pump

The neatest part are the separate slide-in tackle containers, which are waterproof and tough:

In those:

Anyhow, hope that helps out. 

artur1808
artur1808 Reader
8/15/19 6:35 a.m.
irish44j said:

[...]

Anyhow, hope that helps out. 

Absolutely! It helps a ton! I don't say it enough, but I really appreciate all the helpful feedback I'm getting from you (and everyone else on GRM). I'm not shy to recognize that there are a lot of people out there with way more experience than me, so while I try to think for myself as much as possible and build towards my own ideas, I always welcome the input of others. 

On another note, seeing that tackle box caught me off guard because Flambeau is also an automotive supplier and I had worked with them in a previous job. I wasn't expecting to see their name on a tackle box on a rally thread on GRM haha. 

artur1808
artur1808 Reader
8/15/19 6:50 a.m.

It's been a hectic few weeks at home with my SWMBO moving in, but now I'm starting to have some free time to get some work done on the car again. 

I've had some trouble getting my brakes to bleed properly since I first cracked the system open to do stainless lines. Between that and very seriously considering a 24V engine swap that requires a smaller booster, I've decided to revamp the brake system. I'm not certain what the root of my problems is, but I suspect either the ABS Pump or the master cylinder.

ABS pump and accompanying jungle gym of brake lines pictured below:

So I started by getting rid of all of this

 

The planned setup is Porsche 944 Brake booster, BMW E32 master cylinder, T for the front lines, running the rear brake line through the cabin to the factory T at the back, with an in-line shutoff valve to act as a parking brake. 

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UberDork
8/15/19 6:58 a.m.

In reply to artur1808 :

Any inclination to add a hydraulic handbrake and/or proportioning valve while you're in there?

artur1808
artur1808 Reader
8/15/19 7:16 a.m.

In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :

I'm going to see how it feels without one, but I'm laying it out such that it should be easy to add a proportioning valve if needed. Don't really have any plans for a hydraulic handbrake at the moment. 

I had one in my old Jetta and it got plenty of use, but I haven't really felt like I needed it in a rwd car so far. Maybe if it was a drift car or something, but I feel like the car rotates pretty well as is. 

artur1808
artur1808 Reader
8/18/19 2:24 p.m.

Spent all day in the car yesterday driving out to Chicago to buy this thing, but it looks like the e30 will be getting a new engine! 

It's got plenty of miles on it, but seems to run alright and I've ordered a bunch of basic "engine refresh" stuff. Plugs, seals, VANOS rebuild, etc. 

artur1808
artur1808 Reader
8/22/19 7:05 p.m.

Haven’t quite finished re-plumbing the brakes yet, but the new booster, master cylinder, and 2/3 of the brake lines are in. 

Heres what I decided to go with for the “parking brake”:

First picture would be parking brake “off”, and then the second picture is the valve shut which should hold the rear brakes on. Made a little bracket out of some angle iron and welded it on in a position that seems comfortable to actuate from either seat. 

Added bonus is that if my understanding of proportioning valves is correct, I could theoretically drive with this in some sort of intermediate position to affect brake bias, right? Obviously it’d be a crude adjustment since it’s only 90 degrees of travel between open and closed, but it’s something?

artur1808
artur1808 Reader
8/23/19 7:40 p.m.

Parking brake shutoff valve works! My driveway is enough of an incline that a parking brake is required and it held it no problem. The added bonus is that if you shut the valve and THEN apply the brakes, it enables really easy burnouts haha.

 

Anyway, took the e30 for a test drive and all seems well, so I’ll be pulling the e34 into the garage tomorrow and hopefully get that engine out this weekend.

irish44j
irish44j MegaDork
8/23/19 8:36 p.m.

hint: e34 radiator/core support can be unbolted with like 8 bolts, and comes right out to make engine removal way easier. No need to drill spot welds or anything. 

artur1808
artur1808 Reader
8/24/19 11:33 a.m.

In reply to irish44j :

Awesome, thanks for the tip!

artur1808
artur1808 Reader
8/25/19 3:26 p.m.

Engine acquired! 

 

...now to get the car back onto the trailer without an engine...

irish44j
irish44j MegaDork
8/26/19 11:56 a.m.
artur1808 said:

Engine acquired! 

 

 

...now to get the car back onto the trailer without an engine...

here's how I did it. took a little while lol

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ PowerDork
8/26/19 12:04 p.m.

If you have another running vehicle, a long enough strap, and a second person, you can tow the dead car onto the trailer with the second vehicle on the ground by running the strap over the deck.

artur1808
artur1808 Reader
8/26/19 12:20 p.m.

Wish I'd taken a picture, but we had to move fast because my driveway is so short that the truck was blocking half of the street in front of my garage. I had a buddy come over and what we ended up doing was giving it a big push which got the front wheels up onto the deck but the rears didn't even start up the ramps. So we each hooked a ratchet strap to the front of the car and were alternating tensioning/ratcheting the straps. I'm sure it was a hell of a spectacle for the neighbors, but it actually worked better than expected. 

I have a few more parts I need to pull off of the car and sell, which should hopefully cover the entire purchase cost of the e34. I've been tracking the costs of everything I buy/sell for this swap and will be sharing with the class once it's all done, but here it is now:

irish44j
irish44j MegaDork
8/26/19 2:14 p.m.

How much did they give you for scrap value of the shell? I think I got somethign like $140 for mine (no engine, but did throw the automatic transmission in the trunk). 

artur1808
artur1808 Reader
8/26/19 2:17 p.m.

In reply to irish44j :

Haven't gotten to that point yet. I'm going to pull the diff over the next couple of days and hopefully take it to the scrap yard this week/weekend. The quote I got was $100/ton. I'm assuming it'll be not far off from the same $140 you got. 

artur1808
artur1808 Reader
8/28/19 6:34 p.m.

Finished packing up the diff from the donor car today, which should recover a good portion of the budget.

 

Here’s the new m50 with a bunch of unnecessary stuff removed from it:

Knurled.
Knurled. MegaDork
8/28/19 7:38 p.m.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:

Power steering- you're totally right that under ideal conditions it doesn't matter.  The only times I'd really worry are when the suspension takes a big hit, or you land a jump all cattywampus, or you put a wheel in a ditch and hit a rock-

FWIW, I've been driving teh RX-7 with a depowered power steering rack, and a 2:1 quickener, and the lock to lock measures less than 1.5 turns.  It's not bad at all, to be honest, although my nose weight is only about 1200lb.  You generally have to have two hands on the wheel, but on the other hand, you can KEEP two hands on the wheel, so it is a net win.

 

Also FWIW, Andrew Havas had a quickener on a manual box, and on a certain stage rally where his trans was stuffed up so he had to hold it in gear all the time, he broke his wrist on a landing and this resulted in an off.  https://youtu.be/fYuu6MkkOM4?t=5m8s

 

 

artur1808
artur1808 Reader
9/4/19 8:07 a.m.

The M50 is coming along! So far, I've done the following:

-Water pump with metal impeller

-Thermostat and metal housing

-VANOS re-seal

-Welded oil pump nut

-Spark plugs, oil filter, accessory belt

-Remove unnecessary stuff

-eBay headers

 

I broke one of the boots going from the coil to the plug, so I have a new one in the mail. All of the gaskets I touched have been replaced, so the last things left to do on the engine itself are a general cleaning up of the intake side with regard to vacuum/coolant lines and then I'll need to grind down the back of the oil pan to clear my m20 flywheel. 

 

Those headers are giving me a bit of concern though. The e36 motor mount arms required for the swap are cast aluminum and the header is so close to the mount arm that I can't even fit a finger in there. I'm not sure how concerned I should be about the heat affecting the mount...

irish44j
irish44j MegaDork
9/4/19 8:10 p.m.

Not that it probably does much good, but there should be a heat shield on top of that arm.

artur1808
artur1808 Reader
9/5/19 6:48 a.m.

In reply to irish44j :

Yeah, that fell off with suspiciously little force when I bumped it against something as I was pulling the arm at the junkyard. It is a little reassuring to see that you don't have much more clearance there than I do. 

artur1808
artur1808 Reader
9/6/19 6:41 a.m.

Took the e30 for its final drive with the m20 last night and I have to say, I think I'm going to miss this little tractor motor in some way. Still has a lumpy idle but otherwise it's been very good to me. Even compression tested it and all the cylinders were between 150 and 160 psi. 

The main goal for this weekend is to find some time to pull the m20, secondary goals are to finish buttoning up the m50, and clean up the engine bay. I bought some subframe reinforcements that I'll have to install as well because I suffer from "while I'm in there" syndrome. 

artur1808
artur1808 Reader
9/9/19 6:24 a.m.

Mission accomplished!

Once the engine came out, I decided it was a good opportunity to clean the engine bay up a bit:

So I removed a bunch of no-longer-necessary brackets and threw some paint at it. I still need to weld in a patch for the hole that the A/C lines went through in the passenger rear corner, so that section isn't done yet. I also decided to get fancy and bought a few feet of that reflective gold tape to hopefully keep the headers from melting the passengers feet. 

I had a some left over so I decided to wrap a portion of the engine mount. I doubt it'll do much of anything, but it eases my worry that the header is too close to the mount slightly. Since it's missing the factory heat shield, I figured this couldn't hurt. 

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