1990 Troyer Modified Hillclimber

And yesterday the pile of parts pretty much became an engine.

If you look closely you can see that intake and valve covers are not actually installed but it just sitting there. Mostly as a dust cover.   I still need to do some work on matching the gaskets to the ports and I'm planning on doing a little work with the die grinder to match the intake to the the heads. Probably something I should have done years ago but right now I have the time.

I also need to see if I can find a longer ARP bolt for the balancer.  One thing we found was the balancer has really just been holding on by a minimal number threads for years.  The bolt is really too short.

Doesn't look like ARP makes a longer balancer bolt.  Just have to use a normal grade 8. The ARP balancer bolt is about 2.5". I need something  a little longer and 3" might be fine.  I need to check how far I can actually thread a bolt into the crank snout.

KevinGale said:

And yesterday the pile of parts pretty much became an engine.

 

 

If you look closely you can see that intake and valve covers are not actually installed but it just sitting there. Mostly as a dust cover.   I still need to do some work on matching the gaskets to the ports and I'm planning on doing a little work with the die grinder to match the intake to the the heads. Probably something I should have done years ago but right now I have the time.

 

I also need to see if I can find a longer ARP bolt for the balancer.  One thing we found was the balancer has really just been holding on by a minimal number threads for years.  The bolt is really too short.

 

KG...LS's may be all the rage, but to see this is a thing of beauty and a joy to behold......carry on and stay warm 

Yesterday I took apart the crank arbor drive for the dry sump.   http://www.colemanracing.com/Crank-Arbor-Flanged-P3751.aspx

I'm planning on redoing the steering shaft.  And related to that it was time to deal with the problem of very low clearance between the dry sump pulley and the steering shaft. (It rubs often enough to take paint off the steering shaft.) I decided that if I moved the pulley back on the shaft on the dry sump I could get some more clearance.  I've thought of this many times before but it was always when the engine is in the car and I didn't want to take things apart for a minor problem, but it's apart right now.

To do this I needed to take the special engine turning nut and all the spacers and pulley off the arbor and change the spacers so I can move the pulley on the pump.  This turned out to be harder that I hoped.

I got it apart but it took quite a while. The big nut on the end which I used to turn the engine over by hand (like when setting valve lash) was stuck. I tried banging and pulling and heating but it wasn't moving.  It was hard to get any real force on it.  Then I realized I could drill and tap the end.  Once I had a bolt threaded in I could insert a long rod through the other end and drive on it with a hammer.  That worked. 

It turned out the keyway was a bit deformed under the nut.  I think this happened one time when I forgot to take off the big adjustable and tried to crank over the motor.  That resulted in a loud bang as the adjustable hit the tube chassis and the motor abruptly stopped turning.  I was able to clean it up the worst of the damage with a file and I don't think it should be a problem.  

Here it is reassembled with a pulley all the way in.  I was tempted to just shorten the arbor so the spacer isn't needed. That combined with a shorter bolt would save a little weight.  But I didn't this time in case I run into some problem with getting this setup to work. If I shorten it I won't be able to got back to the old configuration.  But if this works I may shorten it next time I have this apart.  For that matter the nut is longer than it needs to be and I could cut half an inch off it which in turn takes half and inch of the 5/8" bolt. 

759NRNG said:

KevinGale said:

And yesterday the pile of parts pretty much became an engine.

 

 

If you look closely you can see that intake and valve covers are not actually installed but it just sitting there. Mostly as a dust cover.   I still need to do some work on matching the gaskets to the ports and I'm planning on doing a little work with the die grinder to match the intake to the the heads. Probably something I should have done years ago but right now I have the time.

 

I also need to see if I can find a longer ARP bolt for the balancer.  One thing we found was the balancer has really just been holding on by a minimal number threads for years.  The bolt is really too short.

 

KG...LS's may be all the rage, but to see this is a thing of beauty and a joy to behold......carry on and stay warm 

It's unusual to see an aluminum timing cover on a small block Chevy without also seeing the Hilborn fuel pump attached to it.  Did you fabricate the plate yourself?  

frenchyd said:

It's unusual to see an aluminum timing cover on a small block Chevy without also seeing the Hilborn fuel pump attached to it.  Did you fabricate the plate yourself?  

 It is a Milodon timing gear drive.   The little extensions that go over the water outlets have been machined off of mine because the motor plate gets in the way and the motor plate adds spacing anyway which was the purpose of the little flanges.  Without them I think the water pump won't clear.   The front cover comes off to allow swapping a cam without having to remove the cover. I've never done that but it's a nice idea.

 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-12001?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAuqHwBRAQEiwAD-zr3Tkj_Tr3DXibRpHm1mnS9dFpCGIJDiM4D3uHIpWubISjluGw6t855RoCBNwQAvD_BwE

Spent some time in the garage over the holidays.   The drill press is now setup.  I moved the desk location to get the drill press where I wanted it.  You can also see on the left the new parts washer (blue and red) next to the old parts washer.  Kelly bought me a new parts washer for xmas.   It's pretty much the same as the old one.  This one is from Harbor Freight.  The pump on the old washer is starting to die after many years.  I looked into buying a pump but a new unit is cheaper. 

I also got the stud girdles installed on the motor after setting the valve lash again.  It had been set previously but I then realized the rockers on the odd bank were installed backwards. So instead of 1-3-5-7 I had 7-5-3-1.  So I had to do lash again after I fixed that.

You can't be the first to run into needing a longer balancer bolt for an SBC with a dry sump. I know that ARP has a LOT of fasteners that they have made and can make again that are not cataloged.  Just how many people need ARP rod bolts for an International Harvester 392 or both sizes of wheel studs for an Elva Mk 7s? I know that they've made those much more esoteric fasteners, I was part of the Elva parts producing process & MISF used to drive an IH 392 before he spun a rod bearing out of it (likely because he didn't pony up for the better bolts).

Call them directly and ask about the length that you need.

ntsqd said:

You can't be the first to run into needing a longer balancer bolt for an SBC with a dry sump. I know that ARP has a LOT of fasteners that they have made and can make again that are not cataloged.  Just how many people need ARP rod bolts for an International Harvester 392 or both sizes of wheel studs for an Elva Mk 7s? I know that they've made those much more esoteric fasteners, I was part of the Elva parts producing process & MISF used to drive an IH 392 before he spun a rod bearing out of it (likely because he didn't pony up for the better bolts).

Call them directly and ask about the length that you need.

That does makes sense. I did go online and check their catalog and didn't find anything. I also did a web search.  So if they have one it must be available only if you talk to the right person.

In any case I already ordered (and installed) a grade 8 bolt the correct length from McMaster Carr. 

In general I love ARP and their stainless fasteners are my favorites just because they never corrode but are still stronger than grade 8. 

So I've been playing catch up on this thread haha. Question 1: When did you get the new Silverado? Question 2: How are you liking the Bolt and Question 3: Have you found all of the nuts and bolts from when you had them spill all over when you were doing your overhaul on the trailer? Hope you had a good Christmas and New Years.

KG Happy New Year!!!....the spacers on the cylinder heads (to the valve covers) are for the different ratio rockers?

Bill Mesker said:

So I've been playing catch up on this thread haha. Question 1: When did you get the new Silverado? Question 2: How are you liking the Bolt and Question 3: Have you found all of the nuts and bolts from when you had them spill all over when you were doing your overhaul on the trailer? Hope you had a good Christmas and New Years.

I didn't get a new Silverado.    I had an old 1994 Silverado.  It was rusting away.  I looked into replacing it but pickup trucks are just so expensive these days.  I almost never used the truck. It would sit for months. A truck as a daily driver mostly sucks. Hard to manuver and park, bad fuel economy, so it was always the last resort to drive anywhere.  I couldn't justify any kind of payment for a truck that sits.  Nor could I really justify spending much cash on it.  Lucky for me my sister in-law Karen just bought a nice newer Silverado.  (The same Karen who used to race the old modified with me!)  Since she had been borrowing my truck for years, she said I could borrow hers anytime I needed a truck. So I sold the old truck for $1200. You can't get much when it is so rusted that it will need work to just pass inspection.  Then instead of a truck the wife and I bought an electric car. We have a 2017 Chevy Bolt that we now drive most of the time.  That made a lot more sense than a truck.  We still have the Outback so we have two cars for the rare times we both need to go someplace at the same time or when I need to give Karen a car so I can borrow her truck. (Like when I go hunting for a week).

All of which rolls into question 2.   I love the Bolt!   I never have to stop at gas stations.  Since I charge it at home I always start out every trip with a full "tank".  And it is so cheap to drive.  Even if you are paying full price for the electricity (I have solar panels) it still is something close to 100mpg equivalent. And there is almost zero maintainence.   No oil changes, no air filters. No brakes.  Those all add up with a gas car.   With the regen braking the brake pads pretty much last the life of the car.  It is pretty hard to find anyone who has replaced brake pads on a Bolt unless they are racing it or have no clue how to drive it.

3) Yup found all the bolts!  Mostly because I was smart enough to install a wood strip in front of the work bench that prevents things from getting under it.  It's a stupid easy fix but before the new garage I didn't have this. It seemed like every time I dropped some little bolt or tool it would end up under the work bench.  When I was installing the bench in the new garage I just cut a strip of wood to seal off the front to prevent this. One of those "I should have done this years ago" things.

759NRNG said:

KG Happy New Year!!!....the spacers on the cylinder heads (to the valve covers) are for the different ratio rockers?

Just to fit the stud girdles.  Without the stud girdles the valve covers fit but they don't quite make it with the girdles.  I found out after I bought the valve covers thus the extensions.   Probably still worth it. Lots of people seem to dig the classic Edelbrock valve covers.   I occasionally obsess about the fact that they are heavy but I haven't replaced them yet becasue people like them.

In reply to KevinGale :

Ah ok that makes sense, glad you're enjoying the Chevy Bolt and damned glad you found them all after that small fiasco haha.

Bolting the drill press to the floor.  It was wobbling a tiny amount and it is just too damn top heavy to trust. It could really hurt if it fell on me. :-)

Looking at the photo above (and just having thought about making sure things didn't fall under the work bench) I thought about how much fun it will be when I drop some small part under this thing and have to unbolt the drill press from the floor to get it.  Gorilla tape to the rescue.

In reply to KevinGale :

You should go out and remove that Gorilla Tape right now, if you can.

That stuff sticks permanent like. This is one use that might be better with the cheap crap.

Bent-Valve said:

In reply to KevinGale :

You should go out and remove that Gorilla Tape right now, if you can.

That stuff sticks permanent like. This is one use that might be better with the cheap crap.

I do agree on the bonding of Gorilla Tape.  And the residue it leaves is tough.  Carb cleaner won't touch it. The red brake cleaner works as I recall.  In this case I pretty much want it to be permanent.  I don't think I will ever need to use those holes in the base.  I'm not even sure why they are there.  It sort of looks like it is designed to be used as the base of the drill if you cut this down enough to make it into a bench top setup.

Finally the Mt Washington letter came!  I've actually known I was in for a while but the letter seemed to be lost in the mail until today.

Congrats on the Mt Washington entry. That's really spectacular.

KG way cool on the entry confirmation......does the new owner of the "chicken" have the same opportunity or will he be a wishful spectator?   What is the "sorting/shakedown" event before MtW that you plan to attend? 

759NRNG said:

KG way cool on the entry confirmation......does the new owner of the "chicken" have the same opportunity or will he be a wishful spectator?   What is the "sorting/shakedown" event before MtW that you plan to attend? 

Luke got in with the original Super Chicken.  My guess is that Paul got in with the Super Chicken II

KG,what is your sorting/shakedown event before MtW?

Just the normal NEHA events. We have three before Washington.   Schedule is here

I mostly need to start getting out into the garage to get some stuff done and I also need to find some money.  Washington means it will be an expensive hillclimb year.  The Washington entry alone is almost as much as the entry fee for all the NEHA events for the season.  And of course since Washington is special there are always other expenses.  For example I'm really hoping to buy another set of narrower wheels to mount some rain tires.  Washington is an all weather event and while at most events I will just sit out if it is raining I won't at Washington.  1) Because it is such an expensive event and seldom run.  2) Because the people organizing it are my friends and they really need a good show. Cars sitting in the pits because of a wet road do not make a good show.  Me doing my best impression of a pig on skates in the rain is at least somewhat entertaining to spectators if not fast.

Sorry, I'm new to all this NE hill climb shenanigans...so is Mt.W not run every year? And what must one have as a 'record' to be invited to this event?