1995 Jeep Cherokee Refresh

You might already know that I have driven a 1995 Jeep Cherokee with 121,000 miles on the clock from Tampa to Pittsburgh for my daughter's first vehicle. It is in great shape, but it needs a few things, so this is where I will post what I accomplish and perhaps ask questions to the experts out there.

First up, the rear hatch required a broomstick to stay open. No problem, new struts solved that.

The corner of the rear bumper was smashed up, so I invested in a new corner cap. Probably could have found that at a junkyard, but it was $3 at Rock Auto.

The wrap on the steering wheel was toast, so I added a simple cover. Dropped in some Jeep floor mats too, while I was at Pep Boys.

Then I had to address the leak. Oil? Transmission? Washer Fluid? Perhaps all three, jury is still out. There seems to be a lot of oil all over everything, so that is where I started. The drain plug wasn't really inspiring confidence, so it was replaced. Still a lot of oil running down. I tracked it to the O-ring that goes between the oil filter adapter and the block.

According to the internet, this is pretty common on the 4.0 and not horrible to swap out. You just need a customized tool:

The issue is that the bolt has about 1" of clearance from the inner fender, and the motor mount is in the way. With the right angle and the ability to slip a pipe over the end however, it was actually pretty simple.

However, the universal O-ring from Pep Boys is still leaking, so I grabbed a Jeep part and will try again. Grrrrrrrr.

I think that the drain pan is stripped from all the years of oil-change monkeys cranking the plug in and out, so that will probably get replaced too. On the MR2, I had to lift the car and secure it on stands that were at the top of their range and had to loose 50 pounds just to fit under the thing. I can lay down and slide under the Jeep easily, and everything is right there, easy to access with no covers or anything in the way. I may replace everything just because I can!

I pulled out approximately 12 pounds of lamp cord that was used to hook up fog lights at some point. The lights are long gone, but the wires and relays and fuses were all still all over the place. Yes, I said lamp cord. Split in half, then wired to 16 gauge wire at the fuse box.

I topped off the windshield fluid reservoir, and it leaked out and ran down the frame rail until it found a hole and dripped out. (I know, the JK doesn't have a frame, but it has rails molded into the unibody) The reservoir seems sound, so I think that the line that runs to the rear wiper has a hole in it somewhere. Any thoughts on where that is routed?

Sometimes the worst thing about a car is it's previous owner.

The leather steering wheel wraps that you stitch up are quite nice if you take your time. I figured I'd hate the one that was on the Miata but after the drive home I was sold.

121K on an '95 XJ (not JK) is barely broken in. Theses things, particularly in '95-96 have been know to go 300K on original motor and trans. Keep up with maintenance, and keep a close eye on the cooling system, the weak point in these 4.0Ls. Nice looking piece for 20 years old.

RossD wrote: Sometimes the worst thing about a car is it's previous owner.

Yep, see the Cheap Green Saab thread for evidence!

That's a pretty nice looking Jeep!!

Nice Jeep! I've had a 96 occupying my free time and money since August. Finally ditched my broomstick last weekend. Really enjoying it so far though, super simple and fun rigs to work on. Parts are hilariously cheap too. Should serve your daughter well.

Update: I replaced the O-ring and have that down to a 30 minute job. Seems to have put a stop to the leak, but I'll have to drive it a bit to really be sure.

I also replaced one turn signal bulb, and based on the corrosion, I should probably pull all the bulbs and clean them up. Someday, let's get inspected first!

I did notice a hairline crack in the exhaust. The booger welds on the exhaust mean that Jeep was stick welding with monkeys at the factory, or that someone has already attempted a repair. The exhaust is in great shape all the way back, so I may need a new exhaust manifold soon. Do they make headers for a Jeep 4.0 six? I wonder...

iadr wrote: You might have big hands, but that steering wheel cover is a BIG no-no for a lady- she will by definition never have a proper grip on the rim, where she can get feedback through the key area- the base of the thumb as it reaches the center of the palm. I have tiny hands (and for the record big feet, nose, ears, & ...) and many OE steering wheels are too thick for my hands. I would refuse to take that out in traffic without removing that grip, if say, I was loaned the vehicle or asked to drive it. It's not just size- for ladies it's also grip strength which drops exponentially with size.

Agreed. My Miata had one of those covers on the OEM wheel when I bought it, and it was already loose enough that the wheel could slip in my hands if I didn't grip it tightly enough. That's a safety issue, IMO. So it went bye-bye, I replaced the whole steering wheel. I'd see if you can find another XJ wheel at a junk yard, they can't be that hard to find.

Anyhow, I will be following with great interest. I think we are going to pick up an XJ for my son's first vehicle next spring. And like you, I think I may head south to avoid the rustbuckets here in Michigan. I periodically check Atlanta Craigslist to see what's there.

In reply to pinchvalve:

Yeah, most of the performance stuff you can get for other common engines are also available for the 4.0l, including several options for headers. The updated OE replacement tubular exhaust manifold isn't a super star performance wise, but does have expansion joints built in to stop you from having to worry about future cracks. Most of the usual companies offer a header though, if that's the route you decide to go.

But for less than $90, for an otherwise stock XJ, I'd probably just get one of these replacement manifolds. Notice the expansion joints for cylinder 1 and 6. Might be worth while to slather some exhaust or BBQ paint on it before installing.

Thanks for the header advice. It passed PA Inspection for mechanical and emissions, so that's a major hurdle overcome! The cracks in the header are not bothering me at this point, but I will deal with it eventually.

I went to the Pull-It yard today and grabbed a few things and looked at headers. Most were cracked already, but the newer models might yield a decent set. Probably wait till spring and pull one. I grabbed some trim pieces, and a new Oil Pressure Sending unit as the old one is leaking past the plug.

Now I have to address the tendency for this thing to dance into the oncoming lane when it encounters a series of bumps. You have to hold the wheel with a death grip and slow down or it will bounce itself into the next lane or into a spin. On the highway today, I encountered such a violent shimmy that I thought I had a flat. No clue what actually happened, but it about shook my fillings loose. Then it was gone. This is unacceptable for a new driver, so I will check the shocks, the alignment and the balance on the wheels. I hope it's not justvthe way live axles behave.

I also have to work on the Low Range 4WD. It will go into High range, but when the lever is all the way back it will only be in neutral, it won't engage Low. Off to Google that one...

Sounds like "Death Wobble," it's a thing, Google it. Usually due to crap geometry from cheap lift kits. Doesn't look like yours has a lift though. Worn steering and suspension components can cause it too. Not to mention unbalanced tires can bring it on too.

Alignment is the big cause in my experience, others will say track bar (panhard bar), though the track bar is usually the issue on a lifted Jeep, not necessarily on a stock one. Still check the track bar bushing, and joint for wear/play.

Worn control arm bushings, front uppers are one of the least fun things to replace on a Jeep. Worth it to buy replacement control arms, or upgrade to tubular arms with bushings already in them vs the stamped steel arms in my opinion. You still have to deal with the bitch that is the front upper bushings though.

Check ball joints too.

If the steering linkage is due for replacement, look for V8 ZJ parts for a bolt on upgrade.

You'll likely read folks saying you need a new steering dampener (stabilizer) if you have death wobble, but a new dampener is a band aid, there's an underlying problem that needs fixed. However, a good new dampener often mask minor death wobble.

Oh good, my 16 year old daughter's car has a "death wobble". Good to know, and that WILL be fixed !

I replaced the oil pressure sending unit which is hopefully the last of many oil leak. Oil would pop the rubber grommet out of the back of the black plug, then leak oil down onto the filter. Didn't realize it because the filter seal and the filter adapter seal were also leaking. DOH!

I have also noticed a leak in the power steering box.
I'm going to try some Bar's Leak for Power Steering Fluid and see if that slows it at all. If not, it may need rebuilt or replaced. DOH!

I also chuckle every time I see that this all-American Jeep has a 4.0 Litre badge instead of Liter.

I also found the leak in the washer fluid. There are two fittings that connect hoses for the front and rear squirters. The rubber seals on both were shot. A replacement got it sealed up tight. Dry-rotted rubber is a theme on this Jeep, curse you Florida weather!

And I found the leak in the power steering. It was actually in the pressure hose, when at full lock, the pressure increases and a small crack in the hose just spurts fluid! $10 for a new hose should fix that...I hope.

Hows Cherokee life been so far?

If its a SFA the death wobble is generally from wore out track arm bushings.

Replace dis (or just the bushings, dont know how it's available on those). It runs from frame to front axle. Then replace the steering stabilizer. People will just put a stabilizer on it and it will go away for a little bit then it will come back once the stabilizer dies a premature death.

Buy good parts, the parts store brand replacements will have to be changed every few years.

Think about it, you hit a bump and the front axle stars bouncing from left to right, reverse of what happens to the rear of a car with bad pan hard bar bushings or bellcrank on a watts links.

If you want to check it have someone move the wheel left to right and watch the upper mount, at the body (IIRC its the one that fails most often), if its bad the track bar will move inside the mount, it shouldnt, meaning bushings are bad.

So THIS happened:

She's officially driving, so the mileage is about to jump significantly! So I better get this thing working properly! First up:

I swear the duct tape is to keep the crack in the hose from spraying power steering fluid, it's not a repair.

All new hoses, much better and less leaky. I also drained and flushed the sludge from the cooling system while I was in there. The Daughter needs tunes, so the ancient Sony had to go. Who does this?!?!?

And the Jeep has started earning it's keep already. The traditional cutting down of a Christmas Tree in 70 degree weather!

As for the death wobble, I ordered a new stabilizer and new tie rod ends links. I assumed the stabilizer was shot, and I can see that the bushings in the links have disintegrated. I will add the track arm bushings as well...thanks a million Opti! Everything else looks pretty good under there.

As for Jeep life, she loves it and passed her driver's test in it. I love how easy and cheap it is to work on and I am totally jealous that I don't have one. I see another one joining the fleet someday...

Congrats! (and scary!) I kind of liked the duct tape....

Tree looks good and hopefully she knows how to use the to gauge under that there stereo.

UPDATE: The Daughter came home and complained of a high-pitched whining sound. I listened and it sounded pretty bad. I looked around and noticed metal glitter behind the idler pulley and a burn mark on the pulley itself. Might be as simple as a seized bearing. A peek behind shows air where bearing stuff should be, so me thinks that is the case.

Easily pulled the pulley, confirmed destroyed bearing. Went to the local parts store and got a complete assembly for $20. Misunderstood the procedure for loosening the serpentine belt and snapped the adjustment bolt under the power steering pump. Pulled that, replaced the bolt, put everything back together and got her running before her 7 pm get together. SUER DAD!

Man that XJ has come out so well. Good luck with the front end work, death wobble worries me about these Jeeps at their age.

I've always liked these, but what a sieve! Are you sure the badges weren't leaking?

PA in the winter? Those tires ain't gonna cut it. Blizzaks on steelies are what you need!

ssswitch wrote: Man that XJ has come out so well. Good luck with the front end work, death wobble worries me about these Jeeps at their age.

It shouldnt. It is almost always worn parts, or something loose. Sure sometimes with crazy lifts, that berkeley everything up, you get something weird, but 99 percent of the time its just bad parts. There is like a mystique in the brodozer community about "death wobble," and they think anything is death wobble and its not cureable.

All the time I hear "BRAH?! You know about Death Wobble?!" Wheels out of balance...death wobble. Bad suspension components....death wobble. Noise...death wobble. Bad Alignment...death wobble.

It all fixable, and normally not hard to fix or even diagnose.