Final list of stuff to complete before next weekend:
Resecure front brake ducts with better clamps/zip ties
Front sway end links
Finish wiring LED lighting
Swap in new fire bottle
Replace front brake pads
Change all fluids - trans, water, oil and brake
Tighten driver rear strut mount
Replace brake switch
MaxC
Reader
2/22/22 11:24 a.m.
Have you run the brake ducts like that before? How durable do you think it is? It always worries me with that hose being zip tied, and bent around over and over again, and coming apart during a race. I have the Porsche air deflectors on my brakes, but want to duct them properly in the future.
MaxC said:
Have you run the brake ducts like that before? How durable do you think it is? It always worries me with that hose being zip tied, and bent around over and over again, and coming apart during a race. I have the Porsche air deflectors on my brakes, but want to duct them properly in the future.
We ran both an 8 hour and 7 hour enduro at VIR in December without issue. They did get chewed up a bit as you can see from the photos but the zip ties held together, brakes didnt fade or overheat.
In the future, i will try to fabricate up a backing plate to attach to the knuckle to secure the end better but so far the zip ties have been working great.
From some past experience on my Mustang, the ducting can be manipulated a bit to oval it out in low clearance areas to reduce the chance of it getting snagged on the wheel or ripped off.
MaxC said:
Have you run the brake ducts like that before? How durable do you think it is? It always worries me with that hose being zip tied, and bent around over and over again, and coming apart during a race. I have the Porsche air deflectors on my brakes, but want to duct them properly in the future.
That hose works great for brake ducting. Never had an issue in over 20 races with it bent just like that with zip ties holding it on.
One week to go till the 12 hours at VIR South. Car is 99% ready. We ran into a rear strut issue that we needed to order a new strut for the driver side rear. New strut comes in tomorrow so ill swap it and get the rear buttoned up.
kevinatfms said:
SoCal Porting opened up the intake manifold for us. This new intake and the MaxBore.com ported throttle body will be installed after the 12 hour VIR race. We are also actively looking into Megasquirt for the car.
I cant remember, did you put cams in this? Has it been on the dyno yet?
Notes from the race:
We used cut H&R springs and AGX fronts and GR-2 rear struts. The cut springs are just way too soft for this car. The AGX fronts felt fine turned up but the GR-2 rear's were just not up to the task. Car wanted to wallow the rear going into hard braking zones. The old setup while idiotic in its ability to hold an alignment setting had the ability to add -2.5 to -3.0 of camber front which would have helped immensely at this event. With the AGX fronts we used camber bolts to get as much camber up front. They only added -1.75 to the front which was not enough.
The Accelera 651 Sport tires were not bad and i could see a future in endurance racing if they offer more sizes(shorter sizes also). The wear pattern was fantastic for the abuse we put them through. They lasted on a very camber challenged car more than 8 hours before we flat spotted the fronts going into turn 1. We swapped to a second set of fronts but kept the rears the same. Readjusted tire pressure and went back out without issue(until brake line let go). Grip was a bit less than the 215 Azenis we ran the last race. Locking the front wheels up was much easier with the Acceleras. We are pretty sure they greased up after 2-3 "heater" laps as we would start seeing times fade back 1-2 seconds until the driver backed off a bit to let them cool. Pressures hot were 30 up front and rears were set to 32 hot.
Brake line ruptured due to it rubbing on either the sway bar end link or the CV axle. Ruptured going into Turn 5 at Fish Hook at full song. Brake pedal went half way then "pop" and proceeded to hit the floor. Car went off the grass around 35mph and came to a stop. Fire started due to very dry infield grass. Bailed out and the marshal / fire team put it out. Towed back in the pit with 10 minutes to go and no chance of getting back out. We were already 82 laps up on 2nd place so we parked it for the end. Pushed into post race inspection so that we could clinch 1st place in Class B. Already ordered new front Stoptech lines and will fab up brackets to ensure this never happens again.
Highlights of the event for us were the increase in power. The exhaust, underdrive pulley and new throttle cable really woke the car up. The last race we could barely keep pace with the A class NA miata's. This event we were dragging down the front straight with some A class cars and some of the slower C class cars. It made it even more apparent when everyone said the same thing....."it needs a limited slip BADLY". The car would spin the inside wheel on nearly every turn.
More updates to come as we gather parts for the next iteration of our Class B Champ Car Hyundai Elantra.
MaxC
Reader
3/7/22 10:15 a.m.
Wow sounds like a great result! Scary failure, but glad it wasn't worse and that you'd already won your class at that point.
MaxC said:
Wow sounds like a great result! Scary failure, but glad it wasn't worse and that you'd already won your class at that point.
Code brown moment for sure.
VIR has some exceptional personnel working there and can say that they have some incredible awareness at the corner stands and EMT's. Beyond greatful for the reaction time and speed at which they had things under control. 100% professional and absolutely prepared for the worst scenarios. They had more than enough fire bottles, equipment and personnel on the scene within a 30-45 second timeframe. First marshal was at the car in under 20 seconds and spraying while i was getting out.
Waiting on the footage but it will really show the excellent reaction times of the VIR emergency staff and especially the Turn 5 corner marshal. Cant thank him enough for everything he did.
I am also appreciative of the Champ Car tech inspectors and staff for checking in on us, inspecting the failure and not criticizing us for the brake line failure but themselves learning why it burst and how they can check for it in the future during tech inspection. I explained it to them and will reiterate it in this thread that the failure was 100% on me and not securing the brake hose with something more substantial than a plastic zip tie. For future, i plan to secure each one with a proper bracket to keep the line up and away from any rub or catch points to eliminate this from ever happening again. Lesson learned and glad it didnt wind up being worse than it was.
In reply to kevinatfms :
didn't the OE line have a bolt to the backing plate?
For the rear, can you use the old K-sports for the rear only?
bobzilla said:
In reply to kevinatfms :
didn't the OE line have a bolt to the backing plate?
For the rear, can you use the old K-sports for the rear only?
No more backing plates on the car. Removed for the larger brakes. Going to fab up spindle ducts to attach the brake duct hose and will attach the new brake lines to that to keep them out of the way.
Going to put the Ksports back on next week. Currently having the washers Tig welded onto the lower cups to stop it slipping to positive camber.
Nice! I was going to do the washer trick on the coilovers on the Tib too.
Rio's mount the hose directly to the knuckle. I wonder if you could drill/tap the knuckle? Been a hot minute since I've seen those
bobzilla said:
Nice! I was going to do the washer trick on the coilovers on the Tib too.
Rio's mount the hose directly to the knuckle. I wonder if you could drill/tap the knuckle? Been a hot minute since I've seen those
Ordered some universal aluminum backing plates. Will try to bolt them onto the original locations and then secure the brake line to that. Also will fab a bracket for the strut to hold the line up as high as possible.
Once i get the lower cups back ill post photos. Hoping the washers will be all that is needed to lock in the camber and keep it from slipping.
bobzilla said:
Nice! I was going to do the washer trick on the coilovers on the Tib too.
Rio's mount the hose directly to the knuckle. I wonder if you could drill/tap the knuckle? Been a hot minute since I've seen those
Not related....any guidance on wheel/tire fitment?
We have run:
205/45R16
215/45R16
205/50R16
all on 16x7 +42 or +40 wheels.
The 215/45R16 Azenis squared was the best setup we have run so far. All drivers want more front grip.
What is the biggest offset and widest tire we can fit under the fenders(maybe with a little cutting) without making a custom wheel? 17x8 is readily available in a +35 offset. They also have a few 17x8 +30 wheels that are available. Id assume a 235/40R17 would fit up front and we could run a 215/40R17 in the rear.
Or stick with 16's and go for 225/45R16 up front and a 205/50R16 in the rear on the wheels we already have? Its right at 24" tall for both tires and i have a stockpile of the 205/50R16 on the wheels. Would swap some of the used ones to the 225's for the front only.
If its front grip, I'd try 225/45 up front and go staggered. I ran 225/45 RS-2's(ok, that dates me) and they didn't feel pinched. Any understeer was corrected with a little lift throttle oversteer. I really need to drive this car.
bobzilla said:
If its front grip, I'd try 225/45 up front and go staggered. I ran 225/45 RS-2's(ok, that dates me) and they didn't feel pinched. Any understeer was corrected with a little lift throttle oversteer. I really need to drive this car.
Plan for VIR in December 22. We are already signed up for the 8+7 on the 2nd through the 4th. We could work out getting you seat time that weekend if that seems do-able. Could use another Hyundai nut for wrench/driver if anything goes down too.
Ill pm you about it and we can work it out. Lots of time to plan.
kevinatfms said:
bobzilla said:
Nice! I was going to do the washer trick on the coilovers on the Tib too.
Rio's mount the hose directly to the knuckle. I wonder if you could drill/tap the knuckle? Been a hot minute since I've seen those
Not related....any guidance on wheel/tire fitment?
We have run:
205/45R16
215/45R16
205/50R16
all on 16x7 +42 or +40 wheels.
The 215/45R16 Azenis squared was the best setup we have run so far. All drivers want more front grip.
What is the biggest offset and widest tire we can fit under the fenders(maybe with a little cutting) without making a custom wheel? 17x8 is readily available in a +35 offset. They also have a few 17x8 +30 wheels that are available. Id assume a 235/40R17 would fit up front and we could run a 215/40R17 in the rear.
Or stick with 16's and go for 225/45R16 up front and a 205/50R16 in the rear on the wheels we already have? Its right at 24" tall for both tires and i have a stockpile of the 205/50R16 on the wheels. Would swap some of the used ones to the 225's for the front only.
If you can fit 15s, do it. 15 x9 or 15 x10 with a 245 40 15 rs4 has won most of the races this past year.
If you can't fit 15s, go to 17s. 16s is almost a dead size. Not much choice.
If you are over about 2200# you will need a 225 to 245 to stay at the front of the pack and not overheat the tires.
Getting good aero/ splitter on the car can help with front balance.
wvumtnbkr said:
kevinatfms said:
bobzilla said:
Nice! I was going to do the washer trick on the coilovers on the Tib too.
Rio's mount the hose directly to the knuckle. I wonder if you could drill/tap the knuckle? Been a hot minute since I've seen those
Not related....any guidance on wheel/tire fitment?
We have run:
205/45R16
215/45R16
205/50R16
all on 16x7 +42 or +40 wheels.
The 215/45R16 Azenis squared was the best setup we have run so far. All drivers want more front grip.
What is the biggest offset and widest tire we can fit under the fenders(maybe with a little cutting) without making a custom wheel? 17x8 is readily available in a +35 offset. They also have a few 17x8 +30 wheels that are available. Id assume a 235/40R17 would fit up front and we could run a 215/40R17 in the rear.
Or stick with 16's and go for 225/45R16 up front and a 205/50R16 in the rear on the wheels we already have? Its right at 24" tall for both tires and i have a stockpile of the 205/50R16 on the wheels. Would swap some of the used ones to the 225's for the front only.
If you can fit 15s, do it. 15 x9 or 15 x10 with a 245 40 15 rs4 has won most of the races this past year.
If you can't fit 15s, go to 17s. 16s is almost a dead size. Not much choice.
If you are over about 2200# you will need a 225 to 245 to stay at the front of the pack and not overheat the tires.
Getting good aero/ splitter on the car can help with front balance.
15's wont fit over the bigger brakes. Going back to stock brakes wont work as car couldnt last 2 hours on stock sized brakes, even with ducting.
We can do 17x8 +35 and a 235/40R17 up front and a 215/40R17 out back? They are readily available wheels; same with the tires. Go square on all 4 with the 235/40 or stagger the rear to 215 or 205 for a loose rear?
The gearing will also be quite off. Stock is a 24.2" tall tire. The 235/40 is 24.4" tall. A 215/40 is 23.8" tall.
The 225/45R16 would fit on the current wheels and we could still run the 205/50 in the rear to burn them off. Would make it easy to go with them for the December race since i only have to swap half the tires over to the 225's.
And we have started the aero. Air dam, splitter and a rear spoiler in DIY fashion.
Stoptech lines showed up. Seems they have a bracket on them that looks to be keyed for the strut to hold the line up and away from the CV axle. I will have to fab a bracket to bolt this to to hold it as the coilovers wont have the tapped hole that the stock struts have.
Either way, these will be as far away from the CV axles as possible. Dont want another incident like the last race.
New ejecto seat door latch release. 
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