19 20 21
docwyte
docwyte PowerDork
5/10/22 5:50 p.m.

Got some nice pics of the car while at High Plains Raceway. 

You can see the splitter hanging down in this pic, I hadn't done my zip tie trick yet...

jfryjfry
jfryjfry SuperDork
5/10/22 9:45 p.m.

Looking good!   Glad it was a successful outing!

docwyte
docwyte PowerDork
6/20/22 9:59 a.m.

So the zip tie trick has been causing me issues, it tore through the mounting point on my splitter.  Doh!  So I put on my eBay "aero" splitter and used washers to bracket the plastic mount and zip tied that.  Guess I'll see how that holds up.

I'd really like a GT2 front bumper setup but those are $7100 just for the parts, ouch!  They never, ever pop up used.  A Ruf "GT2"esque front bumper setup is $4700 just for the parts, so ouch, again!  An aftermarket GT2 bumper that's urethane like OEM from NR Auto is $2000 delivered, plus I need $1000 worth of GT2 radiator ducts, plus the body shop wants $1500 in prep, so basically almost as much as the Ruf, which comes with everything, fits like OEM and only needs $500 in body work.  Le Sigh.

Plan right now is to see if something pops up used in the next few months, if not in November I'll have the body shop just replace the front bumper with an OEM turbo one (for a bargain price of only $850!) and also repaint my rear bumper to fix a large scratch that was there when I bought the car.

Javelin
Javelin MegaDork
6/20/22 10:29 a.m.

In reply to docwyte :

Hey doc have you autocrossed the 996TT yet? Any advice on what to look for and/or avoid for a prospective buyer?

docwyte
docwyte PowerDork
6/20/22 10:49 a.m.

In reply to Javelin :

Yes I have.  You need to grab it by the scruff of the neck and throw it around the course if you want to be fast.  You also need suspension work and more negative camber than you can get stock.

As far as what to look for, nothing really these are incredibly solid cars.  It'd be nice if the coolant pipes have already been welded/pinned, if it's an early car check for 2nd gear pop out issues, that's about it.  EDIT:  Forgot about the rear wing risers, unless they've already been fixed expect them to be broken.  Sometimes you can fix it just by taking the rams out and bleeding them, other times they need to be rebuilt.  There are several shop options for rebuilding them, or just replace the deck lid entirely with a GT2 knock off with the fixed rear wing.

As with any old German car you're buying the owner more than the car, so buy one from someone who's maintained it and has the paper trail to prove that. 

If you take these to a shop and have them catch it up on deferred maintenance you can get hit with an eye watering bill, easily multiples of $10,000's...

Javelin
Javelin MegaDork
6/20/22 11:15 a.m.

In reply to docwyte :

Thank you! I'm realizing that high mileage, driver-quality ones are in my price range if I sell the Cayenne and Boxster. Sounds like buying any other German car. Yours seems to be super fun on track, too.

docwyte
docwyte PowerDork
6/20/22 11:54 a.m.

In reply to Javelin :

You're finding high mileage ones for $30k?  If you are, I'd be really, really wary of them...  They used to be that much 3 years ago, now it seems like those are $40k+ now if they're decent...

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter)
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
6/20/22 12:39 p.m.

In reply to docwyte :

You started this thread 4 years ago. Can you give a brief summary of what (of anything) has broken or failed vs you upgrading by choice, how many miles you've racked up, how many track days, etc. Seems like this generation 911 turbo is pretty reliable and a riot to drive.

Javelin
Javelin MegaDork
6/20/22 2:00 p.m.

In reply to docwyte :

Over 100K miles for the $30-$40K ones, so real high miles not collector car "high" miles. Anything in the 50-70K mile range is still $50K.

docwyte
docwyte PowerDork
6/20/22 4:03 p.m.

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

I've done 8k miles I think?  Nothing has broken or failed, not a single thing, but the car only has 37k ish miles on it.  Basically everything I did, I did by choice.  I've done 3-4 track days a season and 3-4 auto-x a season too. 

Maintenance I did was spark plugs, coil packs (might as well, have to take them off to do spark plugs), replace all the filters, replaced all the oil/fluids in everything and replaced the serpentine belt.  Bear in mind that this simple maintenance, done at a shop or dealer would've cost at least $4000 or more.  Dealer charges over $1300 in just labor to change the spark plugs for instance.

docwyte
docwyte PowerDork
6/20/22 4:05 p.m.

In reply to Javelin :

I wouldn't buy a $30k mile 996 Turbo if it's a 6MT.  If it's that cheap there's a reason and the reason is that it's going to be totally neglected.  By the time you've gotten it where it should be, you'd have saved money buying a $40k mile example.

Javelin
Javelin MegaDork
6/20/22 4:13 p.m.

In reply to docwyte :

That's sage advice, thank you. And yes, 6MT only.

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter)
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
6/20/22 4:14 p.m.

In reply to docwyte :

Thanks for the info. If I ever find myself in the financial position to do so, I'm gonna get one of these. ;-)

docwyte
docwyte PowerDork
6/21/22 11:00 a.m.

So I figured I'd do a more in depth synopsis of the my ownership experience so far....

I bought it with 29k miles on it and it'd been a garage queen for the last 6 years, previous owner (a douche to deal with buying it) had driven it 3000 miles in 6 years and had done nothing to it.  The tires were 7+ years old and it had ATE Super Blue in it, so that was at least 8 years old. 

I really wanted an X50 car and one that wasn't silver but I've had such poor experiences buying cars out of state that when this one came up ten minutes from my house I bought it.  It came with the original window sticker, a Porsche Certificate of Authenticity and most of the service records.

So to start with, nothing has broken in my ownership.  When I first bought the car it came with a bad clutch slave acccumulator and a bad microswitch on the rear wing ram.  I had the dealer replace both.  Everything I've done has either been normal maintenance or OEM+ modifications.

Ok, from there I caught it up on maintenance, so flushed the skanky brake fluid out after I freed up several blocked brake bleeders, oil change, serpentine belt change, front diff/transmission oil, spark plugs and coil packs.

As far as upgrades there are *tons* of Porsche parts that bolt right on that are upgrades. 

For the brakes I used 997 Turbo larger brake rotors front/rear along with 996 GT3 6 piston front calipers and 996 GT3 front brake ducts.  I had 997 GT2RS front brake ducts but one got ripped off and at ~$200 each I decided to replace them with the $17 GT3 ones instead.

For suspension I picked up a used set of Bilstein PSS9 coilovers and the car already had a H&R rear swaybar.  I recently added 996 GT2 lower control arms to set more negative camber.

For power I put on a used AWE catted exhaust and a UMW tune.  That's about as much as I can easily do without swapping turbos, which would also mean upgrading the clutch and that turns into a rather large amount of money in just parts.

I put in a Guards rear limited slip differential this past winter and it's made a dramatic difference on track, I'm no longer spinning the inside rear wheel on corner exit.

For the interior I've installed a larger diameter rim steering wheel, a Function First shift knob, 997 GT3 shifter, a Sony Apple CarPlay stereo and a euro 996 GT3 fixed back drivers seat.

Wheels are a set of BBS RS-GT's in 18", I run the factory hollow spoke twists at the race track.

Exterior wise I removed the rear factory wing/deck lid and went with a Misha GT2 fixed wing decklid and paired that with an "aero" front lip from eBay. 

Think that's it.  I'd *love* a GT2 front bumper but they're crazy expensive, as is the Ruf version of it.  So I think I'll just replace my factory turbo rear bumper and have the rear bumper repainted at the same time to take care of a large scratch that was on it when I bought the car.  Other plans for the car are an engine out service where I either pin or weld the coolant lines, then replace every rubber or plastic bit on it.  I'd also like the add the GT3 oil dipstick so I don't have to rely on the stupid electronic one in the MFA. 

19 20 21
Our Preferred Partners
h0x1jLRZjgyrdGFyozGSFhHvNwTX2VF6NUGclLMoPQecB3BbBbVVovrsxH8Y2rxG