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GoLucky
GoLucky Reader
11/19/19 5:57 p.m.

https://youtu.be/BvYNJd_RAkw

 

it is alive!  Very much in a zip ties and bailing wire state but even with a super conservative tune and low boost it is pretty exciting.
edit for embed attempt.  

GoLucky
GoLucky Reader
11/19/19 6:02 p.m.

In reply to 759NRNG :

glad to hear this makes you smile.  I would build flappers if this more permanent 

 

759NRNG
759NRNG UltraDork
11/19/19 8:54 p.m.

No dude,  put those 'downs' somewhere out the fenders .....behind the front tires down low.....and no FLAPS....wink

this is BADMAMMAJAMBER....BOSS....ROCK ON!!!!

1SlowVW
1SlowVW Reader
11/20/19 6:57 a.m.

You're doing good work. 

GoLucky
GoLucky Reader
11/23/19 6:16 p.m.

Argh! It is broken. 
but not in the I turned up the boost and now the motor is shot easily predicted manner. In fact I am still on 5lbs of boost and that part seems great. 
 

I am getting some driveline vibrations. In a "holy E36 M3 that is going to explode" way. The problem is worse in neutral and with the clutch depressed. To investigate this unpleasantness I took the transmission out . 
the input shaft does have some play, but not nearly as much as I would expect based on the symptoms. Large chunks of metal were also not in the fluid.  Hmmm... the trans to bellhousing bolts were a grab bag of SAE and metric. That's not ideal. So on to heli coils for all the fasteners. 
Also not sweet is the absence of one alignment dowel. Time for the redneck machine shop. Then

followed by:

cut to length with my parting tool:

and now it has two dowels: I apologize to any real machinists who see this. You are safe now.  
And yes it works great.  There is definitely also some play in the front U-joint but I don't have a replacement yet so for now it is time for a workout. The exercise is T56 press. 1 set of 1 reps. For purposes of my health and safety this in cab support is rigged to support the tail shaft. 
to increase horsepower and motivation I also painted the newly fastener matching bell in red. 3,2,1 LIFT.  
okay need to put in some juices and a driveshaft and see if it is worse, better or same. Wish me luck. 
 

GoLucky
GoLucky Reader
11/23/19 6:49 p.m.

Well.  The test drive confirms that the driveline issue is still happening.  I do feel good about pulling and replacing the transmission this afternoon since it resulted in several improvements. I don't think I mentioned it anywhere here but initially the trans cross member was installed all cockeyed using 2 factory frame holes and 2 drilled by the PO. I have since made sure that the tail shaft is actually centered. But it looks like my next step involves a drive shaft investigation.  I was hoping to do some exhaust and general appearance projects but that can wait for now. 

GoLucky
GoLucky Reader
11/24/19 6:30 p.m.

So today I moved the entire drivetrain back one position on the adjustable mounts since this is where it was with the catty-wampus crossmember (aka when it last didn't have a severe vibration issue).  For whatever reason the mounts are built with a steel plate on the back that is a pain to keep from dropping on my face. A little MIG love and now they are one piece.  
test drive showed great improvement! The clunky vibration is still there but now it is less than 1/5 of what it was yesterday. This makes me happy since it looks like my transmission is working how it should. I suspect     That the truck has some pretty appalling pinion angle going on right now and I want to address this in conjunction with u-joint replacement. Measuring is coming up soon. 
 

Is it possible/advisable to flip the front mounts for the trailing arms? Just by eyeballing it it seems like that would help move the pinion angle in a favorable direction. anyone here done this? 

SkinnyG
SkinnyG UltraDork
11/24/19 6:41 p.m.

Yes, you can flip the trailing arm mount.  Yes, it changes pinion angle, but it also improves anti-squat (or returns the anti-squat on a lowered truck).

I flipped the mounts on my '61 Apache.

GoLucky
GoLucky Reader
11/24/19 7:15 p.m.

In reply to SkinnyG :

Sweet! Thanks and that thing is awesome. I was pretty sure that I read about you doing a crossmember flip for the anti-squat. 

SkinnyG
SkinnyG UltraDork
11/24/19 7:54 p.m.

Some 67-72 folks flip the crossmember, which provides more driveshaft clearance up top for lowered ride heights.

My frame is totally different, and I'll have to make some more mods to the frame once I get my driveshaft.

I'm watching through your build, as it is certainly helpful.  I'm trying to decide how I want to run the hotside on my single-turbo install.....

GoLucky
GoLucky Reader
12/1/19 9:10 p.m.

I decided to dig into the sheet metal screw rust repair in the cab floor. It looks kind of horrible, but I did already know that from my initial look.  While the bed is still MIA it seems like a good time to put in the cab corners at least. 

Passenger side welded in. I am pretty okay with this so far and the part that is less than ideal is going to be covered by the bed someday. 
If nothing else it beats the heck out of the mesh and glue previous "repair"

GoLucky
GoLucky Reader
12/2/19 9:54 p.m.

I can't believe that it took me this long to find something so easy to spot and obvious.  Embarrassing, but real life:

Trans crossmember is UPSIDE DOWN!!! WTF?
 

And almost as bad  as the other guy who put it on this way; I put it BACK wrong also. At least twice. Is my brain asleep at the wheel or what? Kind of weird how much it killed ground clearance HANGING DOWN UNDER THE FRAME.  Wow. Keeping myself humble. 

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair MegaDork
12/2/19 11:04 p.m.

In reply to GoLucky :

May I call you A-A-Ron?  wink

GoLucky
GoLucky Reader
12/3/19 7:31 a.m.

In reply to AngryCorvair :

Yes. Because I done messed up. It is really not that out of character though, I screw up all the time. 

SkinnyG
SkinnyG UltraDork
12/3/19 9:38 a.m.

On my '77 C10, I have the rubber trans mount shimmed about 1.5" higher than factory, to try to reduce driveline vibrations. You cannot get your finger between the transmission case and the floor.

The trans was originally somewhere close to 5° down, and with the flip kit in the back, the driveshaft sat at 0° - and that's too much operating angle for a u-joint (you want it 1-3°).

On my '61 C10, the engine was positioned to clear the crossmember, and the trans mount was placed as high as I could without touching, and got a 2.7° angle, which still places the trans u-joint about 3/4" higher that the pinion u-joint (even at a 7"/9" drop), so the angles should be awesome.

(My B13 Sentra taught me about suspension, my '77 C10 taught me about driveline vibration).

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair MegaDork
12/3/19 9:59 a.m.

In reply to GoLucky :

we all do, at one time or another.  like the time i bought a new Fender American Standard Stratocaster, red with white pickguard (matched my '72 monte carlo), then had to sell it 6 months later to pay for a new TH350 because i bolted the converter to the flexplate and then mated the trans to it.  had to force it the last 1/2" with the bellhousing to engine bolts.  as long as you do nice work in between the A-A-Ron moments, and it appears you do, then its all good.

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair MegaDork
12/3/19 10:00 a.m.
SkinnyG said:

...at a 7"/9" drop...

smiling so hard right now

GoLucky
GoLucky Reader
12/6/19 8:30 p.m.

Well look at that; more parts put together wrong. The zerk fitting in this u-joint fouls on the yoke. It allows not much levels of angle and is hopefully going to make things much nicer when it isn't hitting. Does not hit when it is facing the other way. 
hopefully I can get a test drive in before the snow gets deep again. 

SkinnyG
SkinnyG UltraDork
12/6/19 9:06 p.m.

But deep snow is more fun.....

rico750sxi_2
rico750sxi_2 New Reader
12/6/19 10:48 p.m.

Great job on the truck and writing this build thread. Keep up the good work. Oh, and I love the burnout vid.

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