Ram50Ron
Ram50Ron Reader
8/3/18 9:39 a.m.

Yesssss! Killer progress man keep plugging away.

TheRyGuy
TheRyGuy New Reader
8/3/18 2:30 p.m.

(Copied from the OP's thread asking about rack and pinions)

Other than turning your project into a oval track racer wink, can you bring the engine up on it's mounts further and bring the transmission mount down a bit, or does the it hit the bottom of the hood? That's what I'd try first. The driveshaft angle may get a bit wonky, but that will be easier to correct than finding a rack & pinion that would be suitable to your needs, going through the fun of mounting it and correcting the bump steer.

Look at it this way, the rack you'll need to get will be a rear steer rack (very common thankfully) that has the inner tie rod pivot points close to or narrower than the distance between the inner tie rod pivot points you have now. You'll have to install the rack lower than where the center link is now, which may help with bump steer, may not (Measure your bump steer before you take the old system out). There are many articles across the 'net explaining bump steer and how to correct it.  This may involve bending your steering arms (it did for me!)

When I put a 302 Ford in my old W123 Benz, I too had a similar interference issue with the idler arm. So I set about on a journey to install a rack and pinion (and a journey it was!). Long story short, I wish I would have just kept the recirculating ball set-up and worked around it. But I have rack and pinon steering now!

If you are on a tight deadline, I'd see if I could raise the engine to clear the inner tie rod. Just make sure you raise it far enough that when the engine torques over on its mounts it doesn't hit your steering linkage. Otherwise you'll have to lift off the throttle to turn or stop turningsurprise!

classicJackets
classicJackets HalfDork
8/5/18 8:37 p.m.

In reply to TheRyGuy :

Thank you, RyGuy!! I went out and checked today by adding some 1/2" spacers on each side, and now the bellhousing front hits the edge of the trans tunnel, and the starter still has some pretty serious interference. So I'd need to either move the engine mounts forward and up and lose radiator placement, or figure out some other way some around it.

 

In other news, my Airtex fuel pump, and my painless performance fuel pump relay kit both came in this weekend, so I can work on installing those this week!

classicJackets
classicJackets HalfDork
8/9/18 8:03 a.m.

Decided on trying to just move the engine forward and upward instead of leaving it where it is. Definitely going to be a pain to try and get the engine mounts re-done, but I figure worst case I can tack the mounts in their new places and have one of those 'mobile welding' services come finish it off. Beats messing with steering?

 

Also, got a new gas pedal and throttle cable ordered yesterday. If they get here by this weekend I may even be able to rig something up!

classicJackets
classicJackets HalfDork
8/14/18 2:26 p.m.

Gas and Throttle pedal came in, but it was a slow weekend of work. Sliced the trans tunnel open to make room for the trans, and that was about it.

I "finished" The trans mount last night, and dropped off measurements for a new driveshaft this morning! They'll have to reuse part of the old one (thanks, Mazda), but otherwise I'll have a minty fresh 1-piece driveshaft before long.

 

Hoping to finish welding on the trans mount and lock that in place tonight so I can take the engine back out and chop off the "old" engine mounts. Then I can get to work on the new ones!

AWSX1686
AWSX1686 Dork
8/15/18 7:45 a.m.

In reply to classicJackets :

Won't your new engine mounts and moving the engine forward and upward change what you need as far as driveshaft length? 

classicJackets
classicJackets HalfDork
8/15/18 7:53 a.m.
AWSX1686 said:

In reply to classicJackets :

Won't your new engine mounts and moving the engine forward and upward change what you need as far as driveshaft length? 

The engine is in/attached to the trans right now, which has already been moved forward. So what was measured is a set, clearanced (from the steering) final position for the engine. I will build the mounts out to where it sits now, or that's the plan. 

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
8/15/18 8:11 a.m.

Remember to cive yourself at least 1 inch of slack on the trans yoke.

It sucks having to have the driveshaft that was just built shortened...

AWSX1686
AWSX1686 Dork
8/15/18 8:17 a.m.
classicJackets said:
AWSX1686 said:

In reply to classicJackets :

Won't your new engine mounts and moving the engine forward and upward change what you need as far as driveshaft length? 

The engine is in/attached to the trans right now, which has already been moved forward. So what was measured is a set, clearanced (from the steering) final position for the engine. I will build the mounts out to where it sits now, or that's the plan. 

Ahh, that makes more sense now. Personally I'd be nervous still measuring for the driveshaft before the rest is solid mounted, but I know you're trying to get this thing rolling. I've also never had a custom driveshaft made, so I don't really have any experience to say it won't work. Good luck!

classicJackets
classicJackets HalfDork
8/17/18 7:46 a.m.

Well  i picked up the new driveshaft last night - crazy fast turnaround in my opinion. It looks great, and I can't wait to pop it in. Anyone in the Detroit area, Shaftmasters did right in my opinion. They did have to re-use the weld yoke at the back end of the shaft since they couldn't find one to fit the Mazda flange, but they did a great job with it. Family visiting so won't be getting back to work until early next week.

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
8/17/18 11:36 a.m.

The name "shaftmasters" made me giggle. 

Im still 12, apparently. 

classicJackets
classicJackets HalfDork
8/20/18 7:37 a.m.

Maybe I'll finally get some pictures tonight. Yesterday afternoon a few friends came over, and we managed to get the engine pulled and old mounts removed. Digging through a box for the alternator mount, I came across some engine mounts I had gotten with one of these engines at some point; I think they were SVO. 

Removing the Isolators gained some space, and the engine went back in and found it's Operating Position with those mounts on. Both "frame" mounts will be made of 3/16" and will be much better than the last go-around. Passenger side has more space and is already cut, just needs to be tacked into place. I'll work on the driver's side mount tonight as well, but it should be another matter of just some Cardboard Design and then cutting in steel!

After taking the engine hoist away the real fun can begin.

classicJackets
classicJackets HalfDork
8/21/18 8:23 a.m.

Here are some pics, finally! Engine mounts are mostly welded in, but I tripped the breaker for a 2nd time and got frustrated so I came back in. Hoping to finish them up today and get the engine back in for the last time.

 

 

Passenger side:

 

Driver's Side:

 

And my nice new Shaftmaster's Driveshaft :) 

 

Also pictured are 2 of the 3 outlets in the garage. Electrician came out yesterday and told me that basically, I'm stuck with what I've got. So it'll be another cold dark winter in the "new" garage!

classicJackets
classicJackets HalfDork
8/22/18 5:56 a.m.

It's in! and bolted down!

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
8/22/18 6:11 a.m.

Dont forget the paper towels.  Valves get very unhappy with them...

 

Looking great!

classicJackets
classicJackets HalfDork
8/22/18 9:49 a.m.

I did get those out!

 

I may have gotten the intake put on as well. I should pick up some new hardware, but this will get me through mocking everything up.

 

 

classicJackets
classicJackets HalfDork
9/4/18 8:39 p.m.

Spent some time cleaning up and re-organizing the garage yesterday. Sold a workbench top that I brought up from Georgia tonight to free up some cash for the Courier and some space in the garage.  Felt great! 

Over this past weekend I  went and got an older metal cooler to put in the bed for a battery box, and I really love it. Lady CJ and I went out in the garage tonight, she helped clean up an older battery tray I had lying around and I continued to clean up the garage and try to straighten the shifter "hole" so i can weld it back in later.

I replaced the 2x10" holding the bead roller I have onto a cast iron base. It looks much better and I can now actually bolt the bead roller down to the table and not worry about it falling off. It's not work on the Courier, but it's progress in the garage which counts for something!

 

JC Higgins metal cooler ($16 later)

 

Cleaned up Battery Tray:

 

 

 

New Workbench with upper shelf; I can even leave the light in place!

 

Old main workbench, soon to be the rolling "fab table"

 

 

84FSP
84FSP SuperDork
9/4/18 10:52 p.m.

great progress - is there an interesting hood scoop for clearance in your future?  I vote shaker.

MulletTruck
MulletTruck HalfDork
9/5/18 1:22 p.m.

Good to see some progress!

Where in the Detroit are you located?

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair MegaDork
9/5/18 3:19 p.m.

nice work!  glad to see this on Page 1 again!

classicJackets
classicJackets HalfDork
9/6/18 8:42 a.m.
84FSP said:

great progress - is there an interesting hood scoop for clearance in your future?  I vote shaker.

There will probably need to be if I ever want to run a hood again!

 

MulletTruck said:

Good to see some progress!

Where in the Detroit are you located?

I live right around the Royal Oak area. I'm also glad to see some progress!

I ordered the battery relocation cables from Jeg's yesterday, and they're due in today! I'm also planning on picking up a power distribution block like this Rockford Fosgate one to split the main power line to the starter and alternator. For the battery ground to the frame, can i just weld a captive nut onto the frame and bolt the ground cable to that? The engine block will then ground to the frame in the front, right?

AWSX1686
AWSX1686 SuperDork
9/6/18 9:21 a.m.
classicJackets said:
For the battery ground to the frame, can i just weld a captive nut onto the frame and bolt the ground cable to that?  
The engine block will then ground to the frame in the front, right?

Battery to frame with the captive nut should be fine. 

Engine block ground will need a ground strap (wire) from the block to the frame. 

classicJackets
classicJackets HalfDork
9/6/18 9:25 a.m.
AWSX1686 said:
classicJackets said:
For the battery ground to the frame, can i just weld a captive nut onto the frame and bolt the ground cable to that?  
The engine block will then ground to the frame in the front, right?

Battery to frame with the captive nut should be fine. 

Engine block ground will need a ground strap (wire) from the block to the frame. 

Awesome. The original straps are still in place on the frame side, so hopefully I can just connect that up to the block

MulletTruck
MulletTruck HalfDork
9/6/18 1:11 p.m.
classicJackets said:
 

I live right around the Royal Oak area. I'm also glad to see some progress!

 

Cool, I worked on the corner of 11 and Woodward for a couple years while living in the Romeo area.

Whats the plan once you get it on the road? Just drive the wheels off it or tear it back down and polish it up a bit?  

MulletTruck
MulletTruck HalfDork
9/6/18 1:13 p.m.

And thats a great idea with the cooler. Nice to see some ingenuity and style. 

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