Would that tech allow you to get a 3D model of the whole truck that you could then put into a video game? Asking for a friend (me) who wants to have 3D models of all my real-life cars. 
Would that tech allow you to get a 3D model of the whole truck that you could then put into a video game? Asking for a friend (me) who wants to have 3D models of all my real-life cars.
I'm glad to see all of the life and Truck progress updates.
This truck is Awesome
In reply to slowbird :
I'm going to have to try and scan the whole truck, now I want a 3d printed model of it.
Holy crap is converting scan data into an editable solid body a process. Here's a breakdown of where I am so far. This is about 12 hours of CAD work in one post.
So I imported the STL file into NX and oriented it accordingly.
Next I created a bunch of section planes. 10mm seemed a little too dense and 25mm seemed like I was going to lose a lot of resolution so I spaced them 12.5mm. About 90 section planes later I had this.
Create an intersection curve between each plane and the imported face. I used this as reference geometry later on.
Then I had to create a closed sketch on each plane. Using the intersection curve as a reference to create the front half of the sketch, the half that actually matters.
After all of the sections were closed off I could create a Through Curves Body, most other CAD packages call this a loft. I hit the internal memory limit of NX about 40 sections in and had to split it up into 3 sections
Lastly I added a couple text indicators so I don't get it mixed up with the other side. I need to take a couple measurements tonight when I get home to verify the scale is accurate before I start modeling flares up. In other news I hopefully will have a 220v plug in my garage by this weekend so I can get back at melting metal.
Here's my first revision of the rear flares I'm hoping for some feedback here. I made them a bit wider than I currently need them to be since I plan on stepping up to a 295 or 305 rear tire in the future.
I like the design, but why doesn't it come down the whole way on the one side, or is that space going to be occupied by mudflaps?
In reply to slowbird :
No real reason other than looks. I like the open rear fender look that a lot of time attack Evos have. I probably will do another revision where I taper it down all the way.
Ah, okay. Actually I kinda like that now that I see it. Although you might have to remove your bumper and add a huge diffuser to complete the look
I like the look too.
Drew up Rev2 this afternoon. I'm not sure which I like more. I like the front half of Rev1 better but the overall lines especially the rear half of Rev2 better.
A little overlay of the two designs
Hmmm. I think it might look good with the shape of version 2 combined with the thinner edge around the wheel arch of version 1.
Took a break from CADland and the printers this weekend and melted some metal together. I started working on mounting the EP3 seats in the truck and figuring out the controls. I bought a C6 clutch and brake pedal assembly and also a C6 auto brake pedal to turn into a throttle pedal a while back. Here's the auto brake pedal before.
Here it is after a little time with a variety of saws and the smokewrench.
Also half-mounted the seat and played with some shifter relocation ideas.
I need to turn down my steering column or the spline adapter for my Momo wheel. I also want to move the column to the left about an inch but we'll see how difficult and involved that would be.
In reply to RacetruckRon :
LOL I was looking at the shifter box atop trans and thinking “ that’s pretty smart, positioning the shifter so it doesn’t interfere with the cup holder.”
In reply to AngryCorvair :
I hadn't even thought about cup holders until now.
Update time. I finally got around to redoing the trans mount after I repositioned the engine last October.
Step 1. Find a box
Step 2. Turn box into transmission mount.
Reused the mounting points I glued to the frame when I made version 1.
Had to call a few friends over to help pull the engine again to finish up some deferred fabrication (welding and clearancing the subframe).
It doesn't seem like there's much different with it now but the engine crane can go into storage now and the garage is more organized. Exhaust and steering are next up to bat, then I can build a firewall. Wiring, plumbing and controls to follow the firewall. Just have to keep chipping away.
I bought a set of stainless Chinesium headers off of Ebay after I test fit an identical set that my buddy Kyle bought for his dad's Caprice. the driver's side fit half way decent so I pulled the trigger on them and decided I would make the rest of it work.
Note the angle of the flange to the head and the bundle of snakes touching the frame. I did not pay attention to this the first go round.
Poor decisions are made when this tool is present.
Cylinder #3 is in the way of the steering shaft a little bit. Cylinders #5 and #7 need to tuck inside the frame rails.
I offset mounted the engine to make a little bit more room for brake master, steering and my feet. Since I did that passenger side header get to start a new life as a flange and a bundle of snakes.
My buddy Tyler came over for a bit this weekend and helped me figure some fitment out. We built a header and 2 downpipes for his 924 Turbo as well as 2 SAE Baja chassis together, so I appreciate his input on this stuff. He has a better eye for how it is going to look when it's all together, I'm just good at gluing metal together. We formulated a plan for the passenger side header. I'm starting with that one since it is a bit tighter fit. I am not too worried about making the primaries equal length, that level a berkeleying around isn't worth the little bit of power I could gain.
Some random carnage shots and the new piecut jig doing it's thing.
Made some more progress on the headers last night. That pie cut jig is one of the best thing I have ever made with a 3d printer. I need to cut about 50 more pies to finish these headers. I also need to figure out how to get solar flux way up in these tubes.
Solar Flux BEFORE tacking! This made me lol because I've done the exact thing. Got one of those flexible grabbers used or picking up the fastener you dropped? Use one of those to grab a small rag saturated in really wet solar flux paste. Then snake your pipes. Maybe pour some in there. It won't hurt if you swab everything.
In reply to Mezzanine :
Yeah I know I should have done it that way but I'm too impatient. Just making more work for myself in the long run.
Glad there is progress on this, one of my favorite builds on here.
OjaiM5 said:Glad there is progress on this, one of my favorite builds on here.
Thanks man, that's pretty high praise with all of the crazy builds on here. I'm finding more free time for the truck now that we are settled into the new house.
Bigdata and schul274 came over this weekend to supervise and provide witty banter while I finished laying out and tacking the passenger side primaries. We also figured out a simple solution for the driver side header. Schul274 also needed some help welding a Vband and a few O2 bungs on the exhaust for his turbo Camaro.
Yesterday I was surprise gifted a new hooptie from the in-laws. I might have to start a deferred maintenance/ driveabeater style thread for that thing.
What did you for engine mounts, and an oil pan? I'm putting a turbo L33 in a 92 Mighty Max, and your the only person I have found to do this kind of swap. And THANK YOU for all of these pictures.
revdstan said:i'm putting a turbo L33 in a 92 Mighty Max
that right there is a solid first post. Welcome! Now start a build thread!!!
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