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TED_fiestaHP Reader
11/11/18 2:55 p.m.

   Good idea but need to add to each end bracket.  You want to add a piece, so there will be a plate above and below the rod end, easy enough, cut up a piece of angle, drill a hole, and bolt it up then weld it.  With it mounted between two plates, nothing can move.

TED_fiestaHP Reader
11/11/18 2:57 p.m.

  If you need the threaded ends for the tube, Pegasus has those, and a good source for the tubing, aircraft spruce.

paranoid_android UltraDork
11/11/18 7:15 p.m.

In reply to TED_fiestaHP :

I think I get it- more of a clevis (I think it’s called?)

Nothing is welded yet, so I’m not committed to one design.

paranoid_android UltraDork
11/27/18 6:58 p.m.

Just over two weeks since my last update.  Sheesh...

Things have happened though.  I’m pretty sure all the front suspension bits I took off the car are now back on the car.  Loosely, many of them, but they are back where they belong for now.

Drivers side:

And passengers side:

New control arm bushings, ball joints and SKF wheel bearings.  The camber bolts (Moog) have me a little puzzled though.  They are different than the originals in that they come with a tabbed, toothy washer to make the cam on the bolt do its thing, but I’m unsure which side it needs to go on.

The bolt head side?

Or the nut side?

I don’t know.

So left to do on this part is source proper fasteners for the lower strut bolt and the pinch bolt for the ball joint (I bought grade 8.8 then learned I should have done grade 10.9).  Press the ball joints and tie rod ends in.  Then start in with the torque wrench.

The strut braces I made are installed too:

I’ll be curious to see how they do.

After all this I’m left thinking about how building a car really can take a village.  Forum help, people I’ve not met in person willing to give me parts and buy some of my old parts, even a millwright at work pressing wheel bearings out and in for me because he thinks my car habit is kind of funny.

I don’t think I would have it any other way wink

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UberDork
11/28/18 6:17 a.m.

My best guess for that tab washer is that it should go on the bolt head side- it's there to keep the bolt itself from rotating, not the nut.  Probably.  I don't know anything about watercooled VWs.

chandler PowerDork
11/28/18 8:56 a.m.

Bolt head side, alternatively you could use the factory adjuster washers (one head one but) on the new bolts.


edit: it’s not there to keep the bolt from moving but to adjust the camber by running against the raised seam and pushing the bolt (and the strut) in or out on the bottom bolts pivot.

paranoid_android UltraDork
12/31/18 11:30 a.m.

Thank you guys for the help on the camber bolt.  Now that I’ve messed with them a little more I understand how they work.

It only took me a month, but progress has been made.  The front end stuff is officially together and torqued, aside from the bits that need to be adjusted when I get to the alignment.  McMaster car delivered a good deal on the needed fasteners.

One unexpected problem I had was the fasteners that came with the ball joints.  I put the M7 bolts in place, assembled them finger tight, and tried to torque them to 18 ft/lbs per my book.  After the first two failed I took all six of them out and went to plan B.

They are stamped 10.9, but in reality they are crafted from cheddar.  The hardware store only had M7 in grade 8.8, so that will have to do until I can source appropriate replacements (again).

The bottom of the transmission is back together except for one bolt in the oil pan.  When past me was taking it apart in order to get the control arms off, one of the steel bolts broke off in the aluminum trans housing.  Thanks past me!

It was a hard fought battle, but there is now a hole where the broken bolt was.  No pics of the end result, because it’s embarrassing, but I think a nut and bolt solution will work there.

Otherwise the rear suspension beam is off the car and the salvageable bits are being de-rusted and pained as I have time.  

84FSP SuperDork
12/31/18 11:53 a.m.

Great progress here sir!  You can improve your adjustment range by tossing them on a grinder wheel.  If you can track down some camber plates for up top, he trick to improve handling is to increase caster.  This provides dynamic camber preventing you from needing so much static camber.   From memory I’m running 4’ Caster and -1.5 camber. 

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