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wawazat HalfDork
6/4/19 10:02 a.m.

The Unisteer R&P should have been the easiest part of the job but it has stopped all forward progress right now.  A combination of a 50 year old car that had been in a front end collision plus installation instructions that could use some updates and the caveat that modifications may be required to allow proper fitment caused some issues.  All solvable with a phone, an internet connection, a credit card, and tools!

I removed the steering column to pull the old steering gear box then cut off the rag joint.

Once it was off the instructions said to drive the inner sleeve in to the outer sleeve which would be accepted by the collapsing mechanism in the column.  I wasn't OK with that.  Searching the net found me a guy who tore down the column, found a fastener and pulled the inner sleeve out to make the cut that allows the new bearing to be inserted so I took that path.

This partially occluded bolt had to be removed.  It was MINE!


Then the sleeve was cut and a bearing installed.

This attempted co-habitation stopped the relentless forward action

Damn, missed the opportunity for a middle finger in this shot.

wawazat HalfDork
6/4/19 10:07 a.m.

Header clearance around the R&P, Zbar (OEM mechanical clutch actuation system), unit body and headers is a bear.  New Sanderson shorty headers should be in tomorrow which *SHOULD* fit.  Who knows however.  If they work I can get them in and then get the car to an exhaust shop for some custom adapters to my existing exhaust.  Fingers crossed!

wawazat HalfDork
6/4/19 10:19 a.m.

Tonight I'll reinstall the column and the u-joints to button up steering connections.  Unisteer uses some BEEFY stainless steel u-joints in their kits!  I can then drop the car and run new front brake lines.  On top of sketchy drum brakes, I also had an severe blockage-OK, complete blockage-on one front brake line.  Again, 50 year old steel and rubber lines here. 

This car lived out west it's whole life and it shows.  These have been the ONLY frozen fasteners I've encountered in 3 years of working on this car.  When I put some heat in to the connection, the line blew off the fitting.  Check out the reduction in ID at the wheel cylinder end!

And while I'm posting brake pics for Angry's review rear drums were rebuilt in our atempt at Power Tour glory.  Gratuitous drum inner working shot.

Wheel cylinders, shoes, axle bearings and seals were replaced just after this reference pre-rebuild shot.  I HATE drum brakes.

wawazat HalfDork
6/24/19 8:55 a.m.

Well, the Sanderson shorty headers arrived just before I left for PowerTour.  I got garage time yesterday and finished removing the Zbar (clutch linkage).  With that out of the way the driver side header slid right in to place.  I then reinstalled the zbar and mounted the R&P and snugged it in place for the first time ever.  So the 3 dimensional chess game continued with clutch, steering, and exhaust all trying to occupy the same space simultaneously.  I mounted the ujoint to the R&P and it wouldn't allow the steering shaft to move where it needed to be as it hit the header.  A hardware store run netted me some 1/2" spacers and I jacked up the engine and did a test fit.  Close but no cigar!  McMaster Carr got some of my money today for some 1" AL spacers to lft the engine which will give me the steering system clearance and alignment I need.  They will be here tomorrow so I can lock the motor back down.  Of course lifting the engine 1" caused me concern for air filter clearance issues so I removed the 1" phenolic spacer I installed last summer when troubleshooting my electrical issues.  Removing that meant the extended studs I bought were then too long for throttle body.  Found another set of studs, backed out extended and replaced with shorter version, used my last new gasket and locked down the TB.  Checked hood clearance and will be fine with lifting the motor.  I finished up the steering column mods (slug inserted in hollow Ford steering shaft and ujoint fitted, drilled shaft for roll pin and installed it, and locked in set screw with Nylock nut) and will stab it back in tonight to finish mounting steering components.  I need to tidy up some wiring before column goes back in as well as paint the column where all the paint was scratched off the top (Sun tach mount???). 

I also don't like the ride height the Flexform composite springs have right now.  I called them and can flip the eyes which will bring it down some.  Cougar's use a rubber lined leaf spring mount that Mustang's don't this acts like a ~ 1" lowering block when mounted.  Spring maker advised I don't use that and just trap spring between the spring pads on the axle housing and the lower spring plate as I installed them.  I see some lowering blocks in my future but want to put some miles on the car and let all the things settle in.  I don't expect the composite leaf springs to settle like a steel spring however.  Picture dump coming later.


Indy-Guy UberDork
6/24/19 9:21 a.m.

Too bad you weren't able to get this to all come together in time for Power Tour, but you're making solid progress.  Did you get the message with my email?  I would expect that you've had several things to catch up on following HRPT.

AngryCorvair MegaDork
6/24/19 9:48 a.m.

In reply to wawazat :

Sorry I missed the drum shot when you posted it.  From the adjuster orientation I take it that’s the right rear?  Hard to tell but it looks like you might have the shoes reversed.  The shorter lining arcs go in the forward position, and the longer lining arcs go in the rearward position.

raising the engine 1”?  What does that do to trans mount and driveshaft u-joint angles?

wawazat HalfDork
6/24/19 12:14 p.m.

I did get it Brian.  I was looking at them this morning trying to figure out how to get you all of them in hi res.  

Angry-the pic is how they were in place when we pulled the drums. We cleaned things up before did-assm then took the picture.  Reversed shoes on the rear combined with the plugged line on passenger side front drum explained why the brakes were soooo awful.  

Its a concern for sure but I can’t get the 10 lbs of stuff in the 5 lb space otherwise.  I could have bashed in header for clearance but that just sits wrong with me.  I got the old driveshaft ujoints swapped out and can play with transmission mount and rear end in leaf springs if necessary.  

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