I'd have a really hard time not tearing that thing down to a bare chassis and start sandblasting.
I'd have a really hard time not tearing that thing down to a bare chassis and start sandblasting.
That looks like a bucket of fun.
In reply to Scotty Con Queso :
I've been tempted given how many events have already been canceled due to the covid.
I'm pretty sure that car is the picture of "run hard and put away wet"
I have some unsolicited Busa advice. I used to work on a race team running a Busa powered Stohr in SCCA P1 and Ultimate Track Car and spent a lot of time with those motors. First the good: They sound great and make good power. They are factory race engines and are awesome to look through to see all the cool tech.
Random Details to watch out for:
1. The starter on bike engines is always "engaged" so if you spin the car without clutching in the starter will blow. It is easy to change, just 2 bolts and slips out of the side case generally pretty easy. There are kits that are ment to solve this issue, but we found we had hot start issues with them where the starter did not like over coming the extra resistance. We fixed that by running a 24 V starter side system but that's a wholenother rabbit hole.
2. We found that on our built motors we generally saw bottom end failures. Which would result in a rod punching its way out of the block. One of the issues is that if it punches through the front of the motor is can spray hot oil on the even hotter headers causing a um "thermal event" to fix this we ran a piece of metal insulation material that acted as a catch blanket to stop fast moving rods and oil sprays. It saved us on a couple of engine over the years so I would suggest it. The stock motors are more reliable than the build silliness we were running but is a bit of good insurance.
3. All of the side cases are magnesium and hate being twisted in any way like when you say tightening bolts. They like to crack if you not careful like I was, and then your frantically trying to rtv the cracked case back together to make it to the session.
4. While you have the motor out consider potting all of the sensors. The crack sensors in particular has 2 cute little wires that can fatigue fail over time. Just a dab of rtv to help support them and resist the vibration should be all you need. We once had on fail at the runoffs and act of a limiter so that if the engine revved over 4k the spark would be limited. It took a couple of hours of head scratching, revving, and testing in the Mid-Ohio Paddock back in 2016.
5. We found that these engine are super super sensitive to oil pressure. Drops in oil pressure usually were followed by the motor entering metal blender mode. We spent a lot of time making a crazy dry sump oiling system with a tank heater and all sorts of madness. Near the end of my time there we were chasing an oil temp issue. This is all a long winded way to say make sure to change the oil frequently and keep a close eye on it while driving.
That's just some of the things I thought of off the dome while reliving my racing days. I'll let you know if I think of anything else. Looks like an awesome project!
In reply to VonSmallhausen :
Love the advice and it will be heeded!
Next steps are to send the trans out to get the dogs undercut. Since the car is heavier than the bike was, a 3 degree undercut on the dogs does wonders for longevity.
And since most of the season has been E36 M3 canned due to the pandemic I've got time...
Anyway, back to stimulating the economy.
Going to grab the chassis and bring it home for some pressure washing action. Then it gets some sheet metal work, a little welding and then reinsulating (header is RIGHT on my foot box) before I rewire the chassis.
That's a glorious mess you've got there. I look forward to your progress!
In reply to DaveEstey :
Dave.
Where did you get the terminals and weather pack seals?
I just found your post here... a lot more info that what I am seeing on FB.
Steve
I will be watching this one should be close to my new to me Thunder Roadster that has the Yamaha 1250 .
I am working on swapping it to the Hayabusa the car is a pile of fun with the Yamaha can't wait to drive it with a extra 70 horse power
In reply to Rabbit Farmer :
https://www.waytekwire.com/
They shipped really quick too
In reply to DaveEstey :
Thx. I couldn't read the whole website address in the picture.
Steve
In reply to Rabbit Farmer :
Happy to help
Had to bring the car home to pressure wash it. Our shop is in a large industrial building and the landlord hasn't turned on the water spitgots yet (we got a little snow last night).
I could fit two of these in my trailer (24' long).
When I got home I noticed something about the trailer.
I hate pine trees.
After a little massaging of the metal I'm ready for step 2. Which is rivet some aluminum on both sides and with some seam sealer.
Pressure washer illustrates the scale of the car.
Before:
After
The pressure washer is doing a great job blasting off old grime, poorly adhered paint and adhesive left behind from heat insulation. The car will be much nicer to work on. Next up is pulling some sheet metal to make repairs and repaint the frame in a way that won't flake when you stare at it too long.
Car de-scuzzing break to fix the trailer
We'll see how it holds up to the 2-5" of snow we're expecting tonight. Hopefully no leaks and then I can pressure wash the trailer too.
Pine trees really are the devil. I lost several windshields to the same one. Anything parked near them will eventually end up with a large branch dropped from 50' up on top of it.
In reply to DaveEstey :
Clecos ftw!
In reply to MrJoshua :
This one dropped from outside my property. I just cleared this space last year and made sure there was nothing on my side that could ding me. Tempted to do some illicit cutting now.
What sort of schmutz did you use as a sealer? I've not tried it yet, but just learned Seam Sealer is the answer.
In reply to 914Driver :
Marine panel adhesive. Supposedly good for above and below water line repairs. I'm hoping to stay above water line.
Waiting on a reel of emery cloth and red scotchbrite pads, but it was a beautiful day so I took advantage. Trailer cleaning day!
Between hillclimb, track days and LeMons (most LeMons), the trailer gets grungy as the season progresses. Time to rectify with some power washing.
And that roof, which looked real gross before, is now blinding again.
The repairs didn't leak a bit!
Hoping to get to the shop tomorrow to prep the gearbox to get shipped out for undercutting.
I went to the shop to clean up the space before I bring the car back. I did a little cleaning and then decided to wrangle some snakes instead.
Gotta throw on the permenant wire ties once the wrap dries. I soak it in water before I wrap to help cut dust/itchiness down and it seems to help stretch a little bit too.
This should help cut down on footwell heat in addition to the DEI gold insulation I'll be installing.
Making sure my gearset gets to the machinist and back without damage took a couple hours, but was a nice little project.
They're not going anywhere.
Ready to go!
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