Crackers said:If it's really being a bitch... Cut the flanges so the axle lifts out and break it all down in a shop press. It will take less time to weld it back together than berkeleying with stuck hubs.
From my experience with go kart axles, which this basically is, the shop press is the way to go. I have some good ways to modify the HF press if you go that route.
In reply to AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) :
I used to maintain a fleet of +/- 20 concession karts at a public track. After fighting with 2-3 I modified about half of the chassis as needed so the axles would drop out with everything attached so I could strip them in a press. Modifying the chassis was 100% the fastest route, even with the Fab time included.
We had to make a "stand" (stack of 4x4's) for the press to lift it so the whole axle would fit in it though.
The press is a very good idea. Luckily for me I don't think i'll have to cut anything up, as I can just unbolt the rear subframe from the car. I don't have a big shop press, but I probably do have a long piece of pipe that has an inner diameter of just over 1 inch. Thanks for the ideas, tomorrow we'll see if it works!
The press seems to be working so far!
One bearing that was all but stuck before took one solid whack on the end of the pipe (not shown, oops) and disconnected from the shaft. Got the brake rotors off and also removed the two outer bearing carriers.
Now that I can move the shaft back and forth, I'll finish cleaning up the paint and scale before knocking the last bearing and sprocket loose. Also, now that I have the frame nearly completely torn down, it's a good time to go ahead and finish welding everything (I need to roll it over and weld the bottoms).
191 hours.
193 hours.
Success!
That's one clean shaft. Actually I'm still cleaning and lightly sanding areas that I can't slide a bearing past by hand, but everything is off. There are some areas that have some damage from a set screw sliding a bit, but I've been cleaning them up with some sandpaper and the Dremel so I think it will be fine. My goal is to be able to slide a bearing all the way across the shaft by hand.
Getting the sprocket off wasn't easy. I didnt have enough hudzspa horizontally and I was just punching a hold in my wood, so I needed some angle iron scrap to hold the end of the shaft and I needed to go vertical.
This was the end of the pipe I was beating on. Yep, took some force!
Have you checked your jack stands for the recall yet?
In reply to Crackers :
Funny you mention, I actually did look yesterday. Mine are all 38846 or something like that, so I think not affected.
A little more finding high spots and sanding this morning netted me an axle that I can slide a bearing across all the way by hand. There are still some tight spots, but woohoo.
I started this mess just so I could flip the sprocket so I could get the side to side positioning of the engine correct to build the engine mounts (and the sprockets need to line up), but now that I have this rear end torn all the way down I guess I should clean it and maybe add a quick coat of paint.
194 hours.
Cutting off and grinding back some bracketry that I won't need. Almost done. Then I'll hit it with degreaser and paint. 196 hours.
Looks like you could have skipped the grinding and removed those brackets with the degreaser. LOL
In reply to Crackers :
Yeah, they certainly had been "welded" on.
They were exhaust brackets and a chain guard mount and therefore I know they were added by whoever put the Honda vfr engine on this chassis, rather than the original builder. But it's pretty easy to tell the difference between the original builder and the vfr adder just by looking at the construction.
Welded on the right side chain tensioner that I have relocated. And get everything fully ready (as ready as it gon' be) for some paint. Not sure what half can colors I have sitting around.
197 hours.
So many pages , so a few questions ,
what 4 cyl motor / trans is an easy install and would the rear axle take the power,
Whats the best way to put modern brakes on the front that will fit inside 15 inch rims ?
Thanks for the info
californiamilleghia said:So many pages , so a few questions ,
what 4 cyl motor / trans is an easy install and would the rear axle take the power,
Whats the best way to put modern brakes on the front that will fit inside 15 inch rims ?
Thanks for the info
I assume you are talking about the datsun roadster. I'd think most engines will fit, the space is actually pretty good. The rear is questionable. Later cars had larger diffs that are stronger (and many people run with sr20s).
Later cars also had disk brakes up front, and that is probably the easy brake upgrade.
Used some random cans of black and dark green, and then "sprinkled" with a pinkish bronze.
Trying to decide if I like it or not.
Also, spent some quality time with a rag and brake cleaner and the axle stuff. Clean parts are much nicer to work with.
Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:californiamilleghia said:So many pages , so a few questions ,
what 4 cyl motor / trans is an easy install and would the rear axle take the power,
Whats the best way to put modern brakes on the front that will fit inside 15 inch rims ?
Thanks for the info
I assume you are talking about the datsun roadster. I'd think most engines will fit, the space is actually pretty good. The rear is questionable. Later cars had larger diffs that are stronger (and many people run with sr20s).
Later cars also had disk brakes up front, and that is probably the easy brake upgrade.
Thanks , yes a 1600 roadster , really just the chassis , maybe with a fiberglass body , but its an early Vin so no smog check needed......
I liked the finish, but unless you could get up close it just looked like overspray.
Plus, the frame should be RAD.
Love it!
I'm excited to see you putting down some paint and getting to assembly. Good inspiration for me!
Oh those look mighty. In for more pics.
Cleaned a little more and painted a little more. I'm dissapointed in the orange paint (and some of the yellow I used today). Both are really old leftover cans, but they are coming out splotchy. It just looks bad.
Both blues are really nice, but I dunno what I'm going to do about the orange for now. Probably I'll just leave it, because I need to focus on getting this running and driving.
I'm at 199 hours.
Front suspension removed, taking care to store the orientation of all the bronze bushings. A couple of the heims have play that I can't see, but can feel. Probably wouldn't be the end of the world to run them, but I should try to get better ones.
Here's my collection of old spray paints, my plan is to use this to paint the frame.
And finally, let's let this be the 200 hour photo:
Frame is stripped, and ready for me to final weld all the joints, as well as maybe prep and paint.
Any guesses as to the weight of the frame?
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
117 lbs
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
As pictured: 98 lbs
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
88lbs.
ps. The actual weight should be it's racing number. Me thinks.
75lbs
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