5 6 7 8
itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 10:47 p.m.

ok, so about 16 hours later i have rescued my poor pictures from photo _uckit, found another host, and have re-populated the photos from previous posts. can i get an amen!

 

perhaps the moderators can get me a few bucks credit on the now 2018 build? laugh

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 10:50 p.m.

so where were we? oh yeah. POP! oh berkit! i need a new flange.....

i decided to cast an epoxy base to replace the now separated aluminum version.  i purchased a kit for a silicone mold. kit shown here.....

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 10:51 p.m.

mold formed......

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 10:52 p.m.

and ready for recasting....

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 10:55 p.m.

flange resolved it was on to adding the other 2 points of connection for the intake. first, the throttle body. as you will recall, the idle air tube was cast into the intake with backer rod strips. this set the location and clocking of the throttle body. here is the intake before grafting.

 

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 10:57 p.m.

then i cut free the mounting flange from the factory intake and grafted it on to the composite intake. i have some concerns about the flange being warped like the one to the motor, but i figure this one s way smaller and cant be that far off.

 

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 11:00 p.m.

next i needed a base for the idle air valve. i now have the throttle body, the tube, but the valve seat isn't formed yet. i decided to gravity cast this flange with a backer rod holding the tube open to the tb. the hole to the intake would be drilled later and the flange would be sanded down to the level i wanted after curing. here is the form.

 

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 11:04 p.m.

with all the connections cast it was time to see if the epoxy really could withstand the acetone dip. 

 

it did! i would love to say it was pour in/ pour out.... but it wasnt. the powergrab used to layer the styrofoam was a PITA to get out. in retrospect, i should have just bought a larger block of styrofoam!

 

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 11:08 p.m.

so with all of the intake discussion i skipped some things that you are sure to see in the pictures. so i may as well interrupt this intake porn to show them. 

 

first the roll bar. i was a dumba** and left the pieces in the back yard for to long so they are brown. its going to suck painting them, but they cleaned up well enough to weld. here is the prep to make a base location. i removed the seat belt tower so i could cover the area with steel plate.

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 11:09 p.m.

picture of progress from the back

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 11:10 p.m.

picture of progress from the front

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 11:11 p.m.

i also located the seat on some brackets

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 11:16 p.m.

while i was high on fiberglass resin i decided it was time to patch the hole i previously cut on my hood under a drunken stupor.

 

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 11:18 p.m.

and since i had a seat i could sit down and evaluate the shifter, steering wheel, and pedal location. the pedals and wheel i could work with but the shifter was too far away. so made a new one.

 

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 11:24 p.m.

and now that i had an intake, it was time to start figuring out the wiring and plumbing. unfortunately, the disassembly was a long time ago. so there was some learning curve involved. some pieces were easy. i knew i needed vacuum on the drivers side of the manifold, and the idle air valve and intake air temp sensor were easy to see on the factory manifold. i went ahead and placed a vacuum port and a boss for the intake temp sensor into the manifold body.

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 11:33 p.m.

i then fabbed a throttle body linkage from some scrap metal. (I think it was the seat belt tower). and began connecting the wiring from the ranger. i started from the easiest point. the alternator had the most identifieable plug.... and it was he only readable writing on the tape markers we placed in dis assembly. 

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 11:35 p.m.

from there it got much much much worse

 

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 11:36 p.m.

i started by removing what i could.... door chimes? gone! AC controls? see ya!. radio? not unless you are playing the sweet sounds of combustion!

 

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 11:39 p.m.

the problem however, was my diagrams. it seemed like no matter what wire i was looking at, the color didn't match the schematic. note ALL changes i found along the way penciled in

 

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 11:41 p.m.

nevertheless, progress has been made and the harness has been reduced to essential features. the original harness ran all the way around the engine compartment from the main power distribution box to the fuse box, and then the ecu. i didnt need that so i had to shorten some runs. but the end result looks somewhat passable.

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 11:42 p.m.

from there, a mount was fashioned for the ecu....

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 11:43 p.m.

and the gauge cluster was mounted to the car.....

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/6/17 11:45 p.m.

and now im tired. good night!

 

NOHOME
NOHOME UltimaDork
11/7/17 6:12 a.m.

Now that the Molvo is back on the front burner, wiring is one of the short-term task. I seem to have used the same label system as you did for all the connections.

itsarebuild
itsarebuild Dork
11/7/17 6:54 a.m.

Are you referring to the blue tape of questionable completeness? :)

5 6 7 8

You'll need to log in to post.

Our Preferred Partners
FwdZ9J7VmxnXZvPsAnNQP1jlHNQKIkgAzTS2PoPTQ7rsig6HxppAukBnH2qHzFCL