I couldn't accept that part of the bmw lifestyle. So i got rid of the e39 wagon and got a 1st gen neon.
I couldn't accept that part of the bmw lifestyle. So i got rid of the e39 wagon and got a 1st gen neon.
You might need a code reader that can reset the transfer case. Or the transfer case might not be working anymore. The magic clutch has a actuator with a plastic gear that wear's out. Of course after fixing it, you have to do a actuator re-set. It will set off the 4X4 and ABS lights.
Driving home happy the airbag and seat belt lights went off on my car it occurred to me that I should probably print a couple of brake options and test with an electric motor and actually know which designs work. Another reason to get the print in the shop and running.
In reply to preach :
That sounds right.
On a Ferrari its wallet sounds I guess....ring, ting, ting.......chahching!
In reply to akylekoz :
Yeah. Normally I'd take a moment like this as an opportunity to upgrade stuff but honestly I'm not sure there's anything left to upgrade :)
It will be an opportunity to justify a run stand and water brake.....but that all delays wheels and needed suspension upgrades.....and sadly I know that even before opening the budget talks with Lana. Piston, cylinder, valves, seats, gaskets, mostly all custom.....$1000 in broken E36 M3 if the Ti rod is good.
A few pages back you said something about cause of engine failure, but I forget. Why did it fail? Is it an issue that will repeat in other cylinders?
Hey, my first post in this thread!
I had a thought, wouldn't it be cool if you used your dyno as a generator? The large OEMs have engine dynos for test and development that are actually just generators that feed back into the grid, because they often run long tests to simulate lifetimes of wear. At GM, the engine dynos make 15% of the energy used at Milford.
Obviously you're at a much lower scale, I don't know how often the dyno will run, and I have NO IDEA what would be involved in a wheel driven dyno, but it would seem cool. So obviously you have to do it.
mke said:At some point I'm going to need to give the DD some love.... not sure it even has any more warnings to give me....I thought I already had them all then this morning Igot a new one for airbags. At least the tire warning light is still off after repairs a couple weeks ago. The big issue is now it blinks between 4x4 and airbag.....realky annoying, I'll need to tape over that
The 4x4/ABS/DSC light trio could just be caused by a bad wheel sensor. If not, its the DSC module.
The airbag light can be reset using a diagnostic tool, it goes on when you unplug the seat (or the wheel airbag I guess) with the battery still connected.
In reply to TurnerX19 :
I thought I was going to find a dropped exhaust seat...it fact I was sure...I was afraid of that happening.....imagine my surprise when I didn't. But that still scares me so while its apart I will probably replace all 24 and put that out of my mind
But that means I don't why this failed. It was getting late so I was rushing last night so now I need to go back, finish the tear down and see if I can find anything for a cause. I need to check my notes but I'm pretty sure #8, the now failed cylinder gave me an odd valve leak test result.....which in hindsight could be a clue that a valve was sticking a little...it it got worse that would explain this mess.
Memory jogged. Yeah a sticky is probably the only other cause, and what I suspected as soon as I saw the photo.
FWIW, Moto Guzzi smallblocks are known for pulling the head off of the valve stem.
Perhaps a weak valve or high spring pressure contributed to it.
In reply to ShawnG :
The valves and springs are sold to be used together......nut that does mean they actually work together I guess. The springs are actually pretty light since the valves and buckets are light it doesn't take much to pull it closed... at least in theory again.
In reply to rothwem :
I replaced all 4 wheel sensors....that was my 1st guess.
The air bag light was off on the drive home yesterday but came back 3/4 the of the way to work today.. . the 4x4 light was light that for a couple weeks before it decided to just stay on for good.
Mike, I discovered the forum thanks to your thread and read all 24 pages in the week...the wow factor doesn't wear out!
mke said:This post has nothing to do with anything really but it is my favorite feature on the car ....the "slow Down" l warning light...I don't know why but I just love it.
Its connected to the cat and is an over temp light.....but how can you not laugh about a "Slow Down" light in a ferrari? I ran a wire to it from the ECU...but haven't decide exactly how I'll use it but I figured low oil pressure of rev limit or something light that....or maybe just to mess with people.
This has to be connected to a radar detector or a laser jammer
mke said:Don't know if you've found this place but its a decent free online CAD...everything is public but its free and works pretty well so....
Two other (free for hobbyists) solutions are Inventor and Fusion 360 from Autodesk. Here's a simple tutorial on wheel design:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-rCZNFARSfQ
Wheels: I'm really in favor of 3 part 288/F40-inspired wheels with apparent screws. It sounds more reasonnable than carbon fiber and are the right period period.
Also, wheel-integrated spacers: not cool
Dished rear wheels: super cool
Martini said:Wheels: I'm really in favor of 3 part 288/F40-inspired wheels with apparent screws. It sounds more reasonnable than carbon fiber and are the right period period.
Also, wheel-integrated spacers: not cool
Dished rear wheels: super cool
Flatter hubs are easier to machine and much cheaper material...but you're right they don't look as nice. I'm talking to a Chinese wheel manufacture that's reasonably priced to see what might fit on their forgings. I'd refer monoblock, but 2pc is second choice and 3pc 3rd choice.
Composite wheels are still on the table, but the engine damage and dyno mean mine time is probably spoken for for the next year so I'm having another look at what I can buy.
I didn't know fiberglass wheels were a thing before you mention them earlier.
Be it glass or carbon, I reckon the learning curve is going to be rather steep...and you can't really do trial and error on a berkeleying wheel...
And the advantages don't seem overwhelming:
- reduction of the inertia but you're expecting 900 hp (still can't wrap my head around that)
- stiffness but they'll only be 18" with somewhat thick tire walls
- suspension tuning? but you're starting with a suboptimal chassis anyway, so...
In reply to Martini :
No actual performance reason I can think of either. ....sometimes I so stuff just because I can :)
We'll see where this goes......
Doing carbon fiber parts sounds like an amazing adventure and I'd really really like to read about it in this thread.
But could you consider starting with doors or velocity stacks? Something that won't kill you in the off chance you'd make a mistake?
Or drop a mail to Christian von Koenigsegg, just in case?
Martini said:Or drop a mail to Christian von Koenigsegg, just in case?
Personally I wouldn't trust the thoughts of a sportscar builder who doesn't race sportscars. The race teams all seem to understand this is a terrible idea :)
As I said, we'll see where the CF project goes and I'm lso speaking to a company about forged options, they just send the forging drawings yesterday so I'll need a little time to see what I can do with it wheel design wise.
My priority at the moment is engine repair and then a test stand/dyno.
BMW at least the X3, (X5 should be same) trio of lights, 4X4 abs and brake, coming on all at once, that is the transfer case. Could be the plastic gear on the actuator, or a failed part internal to the transfer case. Any repair will require a adaption re-set.
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