I have a manual mill. I'm gradually getting better at figuring out how to do stuff with it, not turning chunks of metal into scrap, etc. It's amazing how many helpful YouTube channels there are for, well, seemingly anything you want to learn. Given that experience and YT is my primary teacher, at my current pace I estimate I'll be able to comfortably take on a milling project like this head on or about Jan 1, 2743 
In reply to NorseDave :
I'm sure if you have a readout you could do this work. The CC doesn't need to be very actuate...normally they are just cast and this isn't going to look great when it comes off the mill. I'm just touching off with paper and copying the location ...the paper means my new chamber will be small by .002-.004 as I'm not compensating in any way. Then I'm going 2mm in z and y so I"ll have a series of located points but a rough surface when I'm done milling. Then I'll just use the die grinder to smooth it out, check the volume, and grind as needed...and it should be just fine.
The stuff that matters is the seats. I'll take more care with those, kick the head, indicate center to the guide and put them in. The raw seat can be +/- .005 but I'll be closer than that then the final profile cut within a tenth 2 total run out, a quick lap to clean up and tool chatter, blend the top and bottom for flow....and it will be a head again. I'ts just a matter of find shop hours to get it done.
In reply to NorseDave :
I wish there was U tube when I got my mill. I can’t tell you how many chunks of metal I turned into scrap.
On the other hand I paid scrap metal prices for it $300 back then. It was an old converted flat belt machine. But really large bed which worked wonders on working on my V12
I think its ready for seats....or at least holes for the seats. There was a little spot between the exhaust holes that needed a weld touch up, but minor then I hit it quickly with the die grinder yo pretty things up a bit.
mke said:In reply to NorseDave :
I'm sure if you have a readout you could do this work. The CC doesn't need to be very actuate...normally they are just cast and this isn't going to look great when it comes off the mill.
DRO = on the wish list! Paid $850 for 2300# of 1960's era mill, so $600+ for $20 modern day disposable electronics just seems crazy. But yes, I need to get one. Particularly since my Y-axis dial does not work at all. I've jury-rigged some questionable setups w/ my dial indicator to try to be accurate on the Y axis. God forbid I need more than an inch of travel though!
In reply to NorseDave :
Its really tough to work on many things without a DRO....really tough. I suspect that a big part of why milling seems hard. I took a year on machining a community college, we had no dross, got to my 1st job and was liKe wow! ....its a night and day difference for stuff like say bolt patterns or slots, the kind of think 90+% of milling jobs are. One instructor used say over and over, "if the only thing you learn to do is drill holes in the right place you will never be out of work", and a DRO makes that almost impossible to screw up .
Save you pennies and get one. My mill is a used Chinese thing, $1250 on Ebay (unless you include the car repairs on the trip to get it as Lana does).....dro came a week later and will no doubt move to whatever my next mill is.
mke said:In reply to NorseDave :
$1250 on Ebay (unless you include the car repairs on the trip to get it as Lana does)....
i LOL'd
The chinese DROs have really come down in price. The Sino DRO I have on my Enco RF30 mill was under $300 including scales. Totally worth it!
2002maniac said:The chinese DROs have really come down in price. The Sino DRO I have on my Enco RF30 mill was under $300 including scales. Totally worth it!
I didn't believe you...but wow they are cheap now! and there are what look like choices at the prices, a few links for those shopping
semi-related, I keep thinking I need a lathe that cuts straight and has metric threading....someday.....
In reply to mke :
You can probably fix the cuts straight part by shimming the head stock on your lathe. Metric lead screw might be more difficult, but consider how the very first lead screw was made
In reply to TurnerX19 :
it could probably be made a little better but the bed is worn pretty badly up by the chuck, I think its from the 50s....it works for most thinks but nice things are nice.
Out there somewhere are metric gears for the lathe....but they didn't come with and being the bed has seen better days I've not searched very hard or resolved to make any. A replacement was getting near the top of the list before the fire meant a new shop needed all available resources and is still eating.....I don't really have a heating system yet....then there is the DD BMW that's on its death march with nearly every light ton the dash lit up at this point I've decided to let it go of natural causes and not attempt to resuscitate....the lathe upgrade will come.
In the meantime, this lathe with cut keeper grooves in 4 replacement valves just fine and with a little sanding it will also spit out replacement valve guides and cylinder. It works...its just not real nice. A boss i used to have who owner mostly junk machines that he literally bought as scrap metal used to say "anyone can make good parts on a good machine, only a good machinist could make good parts on his machines" ....I'm him now I guess :)
Just because I was in the mood to play I opened dynomation and installed the last version....no longer 900hp, 825 in the wave model (darker) normally use or 850 on the FE (lighter - Filland Empty...simpler model). Still a lot and we'll soon get to see if its right but I'm sad to not get 900hp graphs anymore. Sent a note to the developer asking about the craziness of the FE model at 3200, 5000.....this engine seems to really challenge the software and almost always finds issues when he added new features.
If only I had a dyno to see what the engine REALLY makes! :)
I'm not sure is I posted this or not but its on my mind and fits the repair it and dyno it theme......no more doing first starts alone.
There is just way too much going on with the first few start-ups for me to keep it all straight and keep an eye on everything....when the day comes I think I really need to a second set of hands and eyes on site. I'll need to get that figured out in the coming weeks as it looks more like an engine that wants to run.
In reply to mke :
Keep me posted on time and date, I am in Easton and very interested in this.
TurnerX19 said:In reply to mke :
Keep me posted on time and date, I am in Easton and very interested in this.
I will keep you in mind as Dday approaches.....I'm thinking it will bew Nov, but that probably means Christmas the way I work 
It looks like it should be wheel day! 
I have to do dinner with a vendor and won't be home to see them until quite late of course 
In reply to mke :
*cue heavy breathing*
I think I'm going to try these cute little valve stems. I had to put the stem holes on the ID which is an odd spot and I'm thinking these will kind of just blend in and not look stupid there.
In reply to mke :
Looks like a PITA to check/set pressures.
MechWrench said:In reply to mke :
Looks like a PITA to check/set pressures.
hmmmm...didn't really think it through that far
I am also a little concerned that the valve will unload with centrifugal force and was also thinking about something like this to eliminate that issue but wasn't sure they are long enough to make for easy access.
mke said:MechWrench said:In reply to mke :
Looks like a PITA to check/set pressures.
hmmmm...didn't really think it through that far
I am also a little concerned that the valve will unload with centrifugal force and was also thinking about something like this to eliminate that issue but wasn't sure they are long enough to make for easy access.
Ok, forged 90 deg in gunmetal which should kind of match the wheels will also be at my house Saturday. I'll be mounting the old tires for fitment and because I'm not sure exactly when the car will be driving and don't want great tires sitting or me spilling oil on them...so if I don't like either option I can change at proper tire time.
Lana was kind enough to open a box and txt
What a world we live in. Ferrari never put a V12 in the car you want? Folks can build their own V12 in a garage (basement?). Custom wheels? Easy! You design, we build. How much power does it make? Well hold on, I'm not done designing my private dyno yet. Nuts. Absolutely nuts.
Oh my, those are perfect...
Those wheels look incredible.
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