If the problem they are trying to solve with gold pins is loose terminals, $1000 buys a lot of Stabilant, and Stabilant is expensive. But it works, somehow being dielectric until it is within .002 or so and then it is conductive. I think a 1oz bottle is $120 or so but you only need one drop per terminal.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:Tacking patch to extra filler rod so you can hold it while tacking it in place = mind blown. This goes in my personal TIL file. After seeing it done, it is so obvious. Thank you, mke!
If the patch is non magnetic, and big enough, you can use a hot glue stick! Saw a guy do that welding in the sides of an aluminium motorcycle tank he modified.
Finished the cutting/welding and got the 1st one wrapped...what a suck job. Once they are wrapped, the plan is to hose them down with high temp paint to help keep it all in place and to stop the nasty little fibers.
Is o-ringing the liners an option for you to help seal, or do you believe that the water sealing problem is at the bottom of the wet liner?
I'm putting in another vote for copper gasket spray. I like it a lot, and I coat a head gasket with it any time I have any concerns at all about sealing. It doesn't seem to harden like paint does, so that might help ease your concern about breaking the seal when things move--which they certainly will. It's remarkable how much things move with an engine.
In reply to GasTungstenArc :
for sure the top is leaking...I don't think the bottom is also leaking but honestly I'm not sure how I would know.
O-ringing the liners is an option I suppose but that is normally done to help contain combustion pressure I think? Maybe on the list is goo on the gasket fails me.
If anyone following this is pondering a V12 308 and doesn't want to spend 14 years build one it looks like this car was at a dealer in Huston and just moved to a dealer in Atlanta. I don't see it on the Atlanta dealer's website yet but I know for sure its there.
and this one runs 
In reply to mke :
Looks like it's already sold. What was the asking price?
Ian F (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to mke :
Looks like it's already sold. What was the asking price?
It "sold" at the Huston dealer to an Atlanta dealer, I didn't see the listing before though so too late. I know a guy who works there and asked that he let me know the asking once they do their prep list it, he said there are a few items they want to take care of before it hits the showroom floor....I'll share when I know.
Its a pretty nice looking car though. The Huston site says its had custom suspension work which probably explains why the nose is sitting high it looks like, I think the stance is on the list of items to they are planning to correct in atlanta along with other normal older car type stuff
mke said:O-ringing the liners is an option I suppose but that is normally done to help contain combustion pressure I think? Maybe on the list is goo on the gasket fails me.
Sealing is sealing, right? You have coolant in the cylinders. If it's coming from the top of the cylinder, then it seems to me that an o-ring might be as good at keeping coolant from intruding as it is at containing pressure in the cylinder.
The puzzling part to me is why the cylinders aren't sealed .The liner is proud of the block which should provide a good squish .The fact that water is getting in says that cylinder pressure is getting out .Guess the answer will be there once heads off .
In reply to dave215 :
The word on the street is that TR heads aren't all that rigid so the stud forces pulling down around the raised liners tends to deform the sealing surface resulting in leaks.
In reply to GasTungstenArc :
Maybe....but I think cutting o-ring grooves is more a last resort. First I'll try sealant and do a pressure test....I truly do expect that to fix the issue but if not then a more extreme solution maybe needed.
Ok I now see why aviation cement is a fix . It will certainly seal water ports and provide first line of defense on cylinders as parts heat up and expand cylinder sealing would not rely on the cement .
It's probably a little too late now but instead of header wrap have you thought about ceramic coating? I've been blown away by how well ceramic coating works on exhaust parts. Wrapping is such a pain in the butt and has other drawbacks too like collecting moisture.
In reply to J1000 :
I did consider ceramic but decided as much as I would prefer the look of coating and for sure it helps with heat, but the wrap just seemed a better path when heat control is the primary mission. At least that is what I read and it seemed to make sense given the thickness different coating to wrap and I know for past experience that wrapped headers on a running engine will not remove skin when you touch them so I know the stuff works pretty well...ugly as it is.
My plan is to hose it down with high temp paint to help with moisture.... just they also make a silicone coating for it I may try too.
The headers are wrapped. I got pretty aggressive on the front set (on the right) and wrapped the individual tubes down as far as I could then wrapped the set as high as I could figuring less exposed surface area is better for my coils.
I still need to do the pipe the runs from the front bank, up and over the bellhousing but that should be quick, then let them dry out ( I soaked the wrap in water to keep the fibers down) before paint....so I should be able to start on the head leaking issue.
Wrapping done, The collectors are all tapered and smooth and curved which the wrap just hates...I'm really hoping that the paint sticks everything to in place a bit better....or try making aluminum covers like the factory headers had. Anyway, they are drying, on to the engine.
So it turns out that TR mount mounts are not exactly a bolt on replacement but I do think they will work without too much drama and since I already bought them, one way or the other they have to work.
Then torn into the engine a bit
I'm just gonna say it - I have always liked how wrapped headers look.
In reply to Syscrush :
That makes 1 of us.....better than melting stuff though
Pulled the cams and this time the buckets all look the way they are supposed to look...what a difference valves not hitting pistons makes
And timing cover off...what a horrible design to work on, but its off so hopefully the heads will be off tomorrow
Can you spot the cylinders that were running on coolant?
mke said:Can you spot the cylinders that were running on coolant?
I wonder why more people don't use coolant injection to keep their pistons clean.
GasTungstenArc said:I wonder why more people don't use coolant injection to keep their pistons clean.
You can get it by increasing boost....
GasTungstenArc said:mke said:Can you spot the cylinders that were running on coolant?
I wonder why more people don't use coolant injection to keep their pistons clean.
Hahahahahaha! Amazing how quick the carbon forms.
Greg Smith (Forum Supporter) said:GasTungstenArc said:I wonder why more people don't use coolant injection to keep their pistons clean.
Hahahahahaha! Amazing how quick the carbon forms.
Yes. The stuff on the pistons is goo....assembly lube, running rich and such. Carb cleaner took it right off
On the bottom of the gasket the compression mark make it pretty that on the sides it the flame ring not gasket material trying to make the fluid seal...which clearly doesn't work. Sealant it is.
I did recheck the cylinder protrusion and all readings on this bank were .0015-.0030", so right were I left them.
mke said:Can you spot the cylinders that were running on coolant?
This would almost work as an advertisement for water injection. :)
Good on you for getting it apart and starting your diagnosis!
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