'69 GT6+ being highly modified for spirited street use, possible Virginia City hill climb and Silver State Challenge runs.
Buick 225 V6 (231" spare), Ex-Camaro WC T5, Merkur diff and hubs. 4x108 PCD and very light 6" x 14" Enkie basket-weave wheels last used on an Alfa Romeo Spider. Planned tires are 185/60-14. All in pieces at the moment while I work out suspension and engine mounting mods. Do have a plan for the diff mount that looks like it should work well.
Scouring the web looking for ideas, saw a couple here, http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/gt6-project/57420/page4/
A bit disappointed that one is not finished as I'm interested to see how well the suspension worked, particularly the front.
Put a few hours into fitting the engine and trans today. Finally have them sitting just about as perfectly as possible. Cannot get any lower even if I had a dry sump system, bottom of the pan is even with the bottom of the frame. Engine is dead level with the frame, I may want to raise the front just a fraction. Front of the crank damper is just about flush with the forward edge of the front cross-member. If I cannot get the bonnet to fit without cutting now, it cannot be done using a Buick V6 engine without a full custom frame. It's clear now that the "Easy" conversion would be a Capri V6 and T9 box.
Aghast at how much of the frame channel I've had to remove for this big fat T5 and the V6 starter. Going to have to get very creative to restore the frame strength. Looking like I will take a page from the old Shelby Mustang, putting a removable brace between the shock towers. Find this advisable since I've had to remove some of the original gusseting to clear the oil pump. Also cutting clearance for the front pulley in the forward cross member.
Reversing an aluminum single sheave SBC crank pulley will give me enough room to move the steering rack back 1.00" which seems to be all that should be needed. Doing that and shortening the rack to fix the backward Ackerman and bump steer.
I see no room to mount the alternator in a conventional manner so current thinking is to reverse mount it. Would like to see clearly what was done for BOP conversions others have done.
The water pump drive may become even more bizarre, perhaps utilizing a jack-shaft from the alternator if I cannot make an electric pump fit. Hoping to use the Rover 4.0 front cover after I get it machined to use a distributor.
Just about ready to actually put the front engine mounts in. Will be nice to weld parts ON after so much cutting them off.
Still not certain about the front suspension. I recall reading that some folk have adapted European Ford spindles and arms. Since I need a 4x108 pcd anyway I will look into that as well.
Once the engine and trans are finalized I can also finalize the mounting of my rear diff. From there rear suspension mocking up should be much more accurate.
Anyone used a CV joint driveshaft? Would like for it to remain reasonably light.
Final "How do I handle that?" should be the exhaust, not much room for it.