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No Time
No Time SuperDork
5/8/22 6:00 p.m.

The magnum oil pan has a sheet metal guide in the inside for the dipstick. I found on mine that the dipstick would bind and required some rotation to get it to make the first bend where it enters the guide in the oil pan  

 

Tony Sestito
Tony Sestito UltimaDork
5/9/22 9:05 a.m.

In reply to No Time :

I've tried every rotation and contortion you can think of and it just hits the sheetmetal guide edge inside the pan. I think the sheetmetal guide may need some massaging. I might try bending the dipstick first. 

Dusterbd13-michael
Dusterbd13-michael MegaDork
5/9/22 9:14 a.m.

I had to put a bend in the last inch of the dipstick of the neon for it to work with the windage tray, and bevel the corners. 

psteav (Forum Supporter)
psteav (Forum Supporter) Dork
5/9/22 11:33 a.m.

I'm closely following your travails for the upcoming Magnum swap in my Duster.  

Happy 5/9!

Tony Sestito
Tony Sestito UltimaDork
5/9/22 1:43 p.m.

Ok, after futzing with the dipstick for way too long (again), I got it bent enough in the right places until it went in. No pulling the pan, either. Nice. 

And yes, Happy 5/9! 

Tony Sestito
Tony Sestito UltimaDork
5/11/22 9:05 a.m.

I've been trying to turn wrenches on the 5.9 project every day until it's ready. So yesterday, during my lunch break, I pulled that power steering bracket apart and got things painted. 





(Yes, the paint is still wet on the pulley; it laid down a lot flatter when it dried.)

The pulley puller I bought worked great, as you can see. Aside from disassembling for painting, I need to swap my original pump onto this bracket. From what I'm finding, the pressure lines have metric fittings on the new pump and standard on the original, so I decided instead of making a line, I'll just swap pulleys and run the stock unit. 

In other news, I tried installing the little intake plugs supplied with the intake manifold that plug the LA-style angled bolt holes and immediately realized that the manifoid needs to be OFF to do some of them. D'oh! So another set of intake gaskets are on the way and I'll take care of that by the weekend. For the ones I did install, I coated the inside of the bolt hole and the splines of the plugs with RTV to avoid leaks. 

Once that's done, all that's left before the swap is to finally bypass the ammeter circuit on the truck itself. While things have been OK for 40+ years, I'd anticipate the higher output Magnum alternator will turn things to goo unless I fix that situation. 

Tony Sestito
Tony Sestito UltimaDork
6/13/22 9:13 a.m.

It's been about a month since I finished piecing together the Magnum 360, but getting time to do the swap has been tough lately. I've opted to do it at a friend's house who has a shop with a lift to make things easier, so getting his schedule and mine aligned has been a challenge. Also, there was one thing I needed to do to the truck itself before the swap could happen, and it's been something I've been putting off since I brought it home: bypassing the stock ammeter and replacing it with a voltmeter. Way back on page 1 of this thread, there was discussion on why it should be bypassed on these trucks, and with a higher amperage alternator getting swapped in, plus the EFI taxing the 40+ year old wiring, it was time to get it done. 



So I gathered my wiring stuff and got to work!



I've pulled the cluster on this thing so many times that I could do it blindfolded in my sleep. A while back, I already modded the cluster itself for the voltmeter gauge (had to grind down the mounting posts in the cluster) so this should be simple. 



This is the back of the cluster. The ammeter gauge is on the top right. 

The goal here is to go from this: 


To this: 


Basically, you have to re-route the alternator charge wire away from the bulkhead connector and to the starter relay's positive stud, but maintain power to the dash components while getting rid of the weak connection at the bulkhead. Then, (not pictured) you add the voltmeter with switched ignition and ground. 



There are two wires that pass through the connector that go to the ammeter. They are a lot larger than the others, and one is this red one I'm pointing to with the screwdriver... 



And the other is this tan wire. This wire might be black, but it faded over time. It's black inside the cab. As you can see, these are 10ga wires where everything else is 16-18ga.


The connector itself is still set up for smaller wires, so between that and 40 years of things aging, it's a recipe for disaster when you add more amperage to the circuit.



Here are the wires that used to go to the ammeter. Technically, you can just bolt these two loops together, and some do in a pinch, but I wanted to do it right with a soldered connection. 



Heat shrinked and taped. 



On the other end of those wires, you have to do the same thing, as you'll be running new wires through the bulkhead connector, bypassing the terminals. 



With some slight massaging, the wires pass right through.



Nice. 



This clipped wire used to be the one that went to the starter relay. It served to provide power to the old diagnostic connector for the Lean Burn system, but that's all been removed, so I clipped it and capped it. 



Both the new alternator wire and the new bypassed bulkhead connector wiring need some sort of circuit protection, so I added fusible link wires like the factory did. Then, I just routed them to the positive post on the starter relay. 



The old ammeter and the new voltmeter. It's a Sunpro CP7985 that I modded to fit inside the cluster by removing the housing and adding a piece of black paper to mimic the shape of the original gauge. This will keep the cluster lights shining where they should. Some guys remove the blue line so it matches better, but I didn't mind the look since it will match the Sunpro tach I installed. 



Looks pretty good in there!



One fun part: there's no markings on the gauge posts for positive and negative. I figured the left post with the resistors was the business side, and confirmed with the truck battery. 



And by coincidence, the printed circuit board also says RED right above where the red wire goes! 



For ignition-on power, I referred to this note I wrote myself last year during the EFI swap. 



And here we are: a bypassed bulkhead connector and a working voltmeter. Why it took me over 3 years to do this, I'll never know. Also, this truck really has honed my wiring skills. That's a side effect of old Mopar ownership. 

Next stop: Magnum Time. 


No Time
No Time SuperDork
6/13/22 10:47 a.m.

I'm going to be putting my 2001 parts truck up with the 5.9 magnum on Market place, but let me know if there's something you need before I do that. 

Also reach out you need photo of wiring or other items. The hood and fenders are off so it's easy to see a lot of what's going on with routing of wiring, lines, and hoses. 

Tony Sestito
Tony Sestito UltimaDork
6/15/22 12:29 p.m.

In reply to No Time :

Thanks for the offer, but I think I have everything I need for the swap. The engine I grabbed came with an entire wiring harness (minus ECU) in case I ever want to swap to the factory MPFI setup instead of the Atomic 2. Hoping you sell your parts rig quick! 

ur_local_m880
ur_local_m880
6/23/22 10:23 a.m.

In reply to Tony Sestito :

ik where this junkyard is i go to it sometimes with my dad that truck been there for years it used to not be crushed but then they crushed it somewhat its near the blue squarebody wrecker if im not mistaken theres also a w400 there with a massive push bumper

 

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