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Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
8/2/18 5:22 p.m.

bmw codes via scanner 1.4.0

20180802_181908 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

Indy-Guy
Indy-Guy UltraDork
8/2/18 5:34 p.m.

In reply to Dusterbd13 :

You know I'll be following along here, as I too recently bought my first German car (also a wagon). I really like the black tape on the trim trick. I think I'm going to steal that one.

02Pilot
02Pilot Dork
8/2/18 5:55 p.m.

Look at BB[187] Voltage excursion before cat. sensor bank 2. I suspect that's the root of your problem. Check voltage in and out on the bank 2 pre-cat O2 sensor and see what's happening. I expect you'll find either a broken wire or a bad sensor (voltage in but nothing out).

For the windshield, see #1 here: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DP63-USA-11-1998-E39-BMW-528i&diagId=51_3644

 

rustomatic
rustomatic New Reader
8/2/18 6:32 p.m.

The e39 is awesome.  I've had a 1999 528 (msport) and a 2001 530i (msport).  The 1999 had a few minor problems, but when I sold it, answers came falling forth:  someone had changed the odometer, so the reality was that my 140k car had 200k on it.  Nevertheless, the thing still worked great overall, got 27mpg, and cruised right up hills in top gear with nary an increase in throttle pressure.  My 530 is pure catnip (only 24mpg, but with 5spd sport-auto), but the rubber around the windows is indeed hitting the trails.

Good points:  They made literally a zillion of these cars, parts are cheap and plentiful, problems are exceedingly common, and the Web knowledge base is amazing.  The e39 is the only car I've heard of that was (and still is by many) rated as the "best car ever made" by more than one source.  It is still a benchmark model for design and engineering.  Enjoy with patience.

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
8/2/18 7:03 p.m.

20180802_190109 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

cleared codes. switched connectors between banks. 4 mile drive. cel back on almost instantly (200 yards and 5 minutes or so), but drove reasonably well. didnt detect the misfires i was getting previously. however, the code didnt follow the sensor near as i can tell. 

 

would you agree?

and can i check harness voltage at the connector? i know it would work on a GM, but this is european. additionally, TIS doesnt have a legend of what letters correlate to what colors on the wiring harness, at least that i can find. anyone have easier wiring diagrams for these?

02Pilot
02Pilot Dork
8/2/18 8:17 p.m.

You should be able to check system voltage at the connector, but I don't know which wire carries it (brown is ground, always - check that too).

Misfires may be occurring without registering a fault code. It takes repeated misfires to do so. Live data may be useful here, but in any case a four mile drive is not likely to be sufficient to determine if the fault has returned.

Given that switching connectors moved the fault, I'd say you most likely have a wiring issue.

 

Justjim75
Justjim75 Reader
8/2/18 9:27 p.m.

Wait, there's something missing on the windshield?

02Pilot
02Pilot Dork
8/3/18 6:05 a.m.
Justjim75 said:

Wait, there's something missing on the windshield?

Looks like it. There's a pressed-in channeled rubber seal that narrows that gap and smooths the airflow over the roof edge that appears to be missing. They fall apart regularly, but thankfully aren't too expensive and are easy to install. As I said, they make a big difference in wind noise at speed.

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
8/3/18 7:43 a.m.

Theres a 530i e39 at the tire shop right now.

Mines in better shape, but his has the windshield moulding 

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
8/3/18 11:26 a.m.

Found a few more vacuum leaks before work. Going to try to repair over lunch. Could it be the whole issue is vacuum leaks? Ine is a 3/8 hose from what appears to be an evap solenoid to somewhere under the intake. It was spliced be someone in the past, and the slip fit splice has failed.

Checked every fuse in the car. Glove compartment, hatch, dme bay. No blown fuses. Have not checked 12v power to 02 sensors. Still need to do that.

Indy-Guy
Indy-Guy UltraDork
8/3/18 11:42 a.m.

In reply to Dusterbd13 :

How sweet would it be if the vacuum leak repair fixes it all. Fingers crossed

02Pilot
02Pilot Dork
8/3/18 12:08 p.m.

Vacuum leaks are a common issue on these, but I can't envision anything that would be leaking vacuum and only affecting half the engine at a time (and moving with the electrical connector to boot).

 

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
8/3/18 12:35 p.m.

youre most likely right. it appears that the hose i found goes under the intake to the rear. i think it may be a CCV part, but no promises. 

 

still need to check power and ground to the 02.

Justjim75
Justjim75 Reader
8/3/18 12:37 p.m.

If the rear O2s blow a fuse the trans goes to limp mode

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair MegaDork
8/3/18 12:45 p.m.

i got five on that 3/8" vacuum leak fixing it all.

you read it here first.

actually, you should have read it somewhere else first, because i know i posted my experience with the brake booster hose causing pretty much exactly all these codes on my E38.  i thought i posted it in one of your other threads but i can't find it now.

sleepyhead
sleepyhead Dork
8/3/18 1:24 p.m.

I'm interested in following this thread along.

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
8/3/18 1:42 p.m.

Angry: you did! I'm not going to bother looking, but you did. 

This thing is buried so far under the intake and covered in so much filth that jim would have never seen it, and the brake clean would never reach it. I only found it by seeing something bright yellow and getting my flashlight and mirror out. The bright yellow was a piece of smooth nylon tube that was used for the splice.

 

Will disconnecting the battery cause me any issues? Im pulling the intake for replacement hoses and o rings. Time to go nuclear. Theres a positive terminal on the intake, and i figure its safest to unhook power.

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair MegaDork
8/3/18 3:00 p.m.

In reply to Dusterbd13 :

No issues other than losing clock and radio presets.

02Pilot
02Pilot Dork
8/3/18 3:07 p.m.

If you're going to go to the trouble of pulling the intake anyway, consider doing the plastic coolant pipes that run under it. They're not a major source of problems, but I've heard of them failing. I think you said the CCV was done recently, so you have a reasonable chance of disconnecting the hoses without snapping them off. If it wasn't done, do it.

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
8/3/18 3:09 p.m.

I found quite a few mentions of deleting the CCV entirely and changing it to a PCV system. I think it will require more research, however before I go down that rabbit hole, do we know if it will cause a check engine light?

Doc Brown
Doc Brown Dork
8/3/18 3:38 p.m.

This is getting exciting!  Hope you found the problem!

Justjim75
Justjim75 Reader
8/3/18 3:45 p.m.

The crankcase is sealed and part of the intake vacuum, if you do delete the CCV, you'll have to do a catch can or something and there are several places the cCv system connects to the intake.  Hell, it even hooks to the dipstick.  I remember at least 3 places the CCV connects to the intake, and one to the dipstick.  There is a way to test CCV by putting a rubber glove over the oil filler hole, it should suck in or blow out or something.  

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
8/3/18 3:50 p.m.
AngryCorvair said:

In reply to Dusterbd13 :

No issues other than losing clock and radio presets.

No big loss. Ive never set them!

02Pilot
02Pilot Dork
8/3/18 3:57 p.m.
Dusterbd13 said:

I found quite a few mentions of deleting the CCV entirely and changing it to a PCV system. I think it will require more research, however before I go down that rabbit hole, do we know if it will cause a check engine light?

I know more about M5x CCV systems than I care to (search the interweb for "02Pilot Mod" and you'll discover the results of a long development process chasing oil consumption in my M54 525i, which is documented in alarming detail here) - any questions, just ask. Every PCV conversion I've seen has been ugly. Sure, you can do it, but why? Build a slack-tube manometer and measure crankcase vacuum properly if you want to know what's really going on. The M52 setup is less problematic than the M54 version in any case.

 

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
8/9/18 11:06 a.m.

so, i had taken today and tomorrow off to take my neice to college in west virginia. my brother, last night, decided he was taking her regardless of the pending birth of his son. his choice, so.....

 

not to let PTO go to waste, im trying to get the vacuum systems sorted on this. 

im on the reassembly side now. however, a note: all manifold attaching hardware, and o rings, ARE NOT OPTIONAL. jim never had any of this apart, so it wasnt him. kinda wonder who owned it before, or at least worked on it, so i can go kick them in the gonads. air distribution piece missing an oring, all lower injector orings very ruff (not sealing on a couple), and 3 of the nuts at the back of the manifold to head were missing. i also found every hose under the intake was dry rotted (not obvious leaks except for the spliced one, but....). as a last note: german engineering is WIERD. i have no idea why they do a lot of stuff the way they do. like the sensor wiring that goes through a plastic box bolted to the intake, then spreads like medusas hair. with no ryhme or reason to the routing.  but yet the injectors are so tightly and cleanly loomed......

also, on a side note: 17x10 z06 vette wheels may fit. but ill need different spacers than the ones i have due to hub bore size. bmw hubs are freaking HUGE. 

again, im happy with the car i got from jim. but if i was jim, id be pissed at the guy i got it from for hackery. that dude would owe me a sammich. 

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