This may be a little ridiculous - a $2018 challenge oddessey

In reply to Dusterbd13 :

Ermagawd!

Buy another one or 2.  Boost or nitrous or whatever on those engines til you get it right.  Install cheap engine once right for challenge....

Mr. Lee said:

wvumtnbkr said:

How much do you have into that LA1? 

3500 that makes more powars.... Around 250$

I think I saw you had 125 into the trans, right?  If so, that sounds pretty good!  Especially if it had a shifter or slave cylinder!

 

I REALLY wanna boost and or nitrous my chumpcar (LA1 powered 87 RX7) for hooning next year.  Maybe you and I can compare notes once the sillyness ensues....

 

 

 

Does the intake manifold flip 180 on those?

 

Hot ticket would be to find whoever picked up the parking lot build fiero a few years ago and see if you can't score those manifolds. It was a 3.4 swapped, T3 turbo'd contraption.

Yes.  However for rwd, you must run the 2.8 or 3.4 rwd front timing cover, water pump, alternator, and pulleys.

Im actually planning to run the intake into the cowl below the wipers. Thereby making it cheaper.....

Dusterbd13 said:

Im actually planning to run the intake into the cowl below the wipers. Thereby making it cheaper.....

there's usually a good high pressure zone at the base of windsheilds... and you live in the region of plentiful hood scoops, right?

Yes i do.

They're called mailboxes 

Dusterbd13 said:

Im actually planning to run the intake into the cowl below the wipers. Thereby making it cheaper.....

Cool!  I wish I could have done that!

I need to send you a care package...  new water pump and some other stuff...

Why couldn't you do that? Something rx7 specific, or another reason?

I like care packages.....

Seems like a time & energy would be better well spent just making a stock-ish 3400 work well in an autox prepped Miata, right?  I have to imagine some intake/exhaust should get you around 190-200whp, which is plenty to make a Miata on SM7s go fast.  Good for low 13s maybe?  All that extra boost/nitrous/etc. probably wouldn't gain much in the autocross, but will decrease reliability ten-fold and may turn the trans, diff, motor, or all 3 into a grenade at the drag strip.

In reply to ProDarwin :

That really does sound practical and a rational way to proceed. It's also going to be step one. Then, add power. All the boost and juice in the world is pointless if i can't get it around course quickly. 

ProDarwin said:

Seems like a time & energy would be better well spent just making a stock-ish 3400 work well in an autox prepped Miata, right?  I have to imagine some intake/exhaust should get you around 190-200whp, which is plenty to make a Miata on SM7s go fast.  Good for low 13s maybe?  All that extra boost/nitrous/etc. probably wouldn't gain much in the autocross, but will decrease reliability ten-fold and may turn the trans, diff, motor, or all 3 into a grenade at the drag strip.

anyone got dyno plots on that?

In reply to sleepyhead :

If we find some, im all eyes.

There's actually quite a lot of dyno sheets for gm 60*v6s floating around. One of the main things that separates them from other 60* ohv v6s (other than rwd manual trans availability) is how many cams are available or have been tried in them. You can put a really nasty cam in them, off the shelf. 

In for updates...I like where this is going!

Maybe this should be the build thread....

Can anyone find me a chassis dyno plot for a stck manual transmission la1 3400? 

This is gonna be fun 

ProDarwin said:

Seems like a time & energy would be better well spent just making a stock-ish 3400 work well in an autox prepped Miata, right?  I have to imagine some intake/exhaust should get you around 190-200whp, which is plenty to make a Miata on SM7s go fast.  Good for low 13s maybe?  All that extra boost/nitrous/etc. probably wouldn't gain much in the autocross, but will decrease reliability ten-fold and may turn the trans, diff, motor, or all 3 into a grenade at the drag strip.

190 whp in a 2000lb car (with driver) should theoretically be good for 12.50's around 106.  4cyl miata is EASY to hit that weight. Not sure what the weight of a 3.4 is vs a bp. 

ET calculator
 

According to Google, a full dress longblock is 250lbs

Dusterbd13 said:

Maybe this should be the build thread....

 

Can anyone find me a chassis dyno plot for a stck manual transmission la1 3400? 

This is gonna be fun 

I'm using these, mainly because it gets sucked into a spreadsheet easily:
Automobile Catalog Impala 3400

and dropping a 20% driveline loss onto it

After a little digging, it seems that these engines with a stock tune, free flowing intake and exhaust, and manual transmissions put down 19x hp and 20x ft lbs torque pretty consistently. 

Thats vs the stok 1xx hp and 9x torque of the miata. 

Double out of the box.

Dusterbd13 said:

Maybe this should be the build thread....

 

Can anyone find me a chassis dyno plot for a stck manual transmission la1 3400? 

This is gonna be fun 

Probably in a few weeks....  However, mine does have a homemade intake and headers.  Close enough?

Robbie said:

Dusterbd13 says:

The last part of me wants to do both

Twin nitrous? Dual nitrous? N2O4?

Its such a good idea I don't even know what to call it.

I'd say go Dual nitrous dual turbo.  One per bank.

Dusterbd,

Earlier you mentioned larger heads to lower compression.  The iron heads on the rwd 2.8/3.1/3.4's would drop the compression, but they suck for flow.  The LX9 3500 (bored out LA1) heads are supposed to be the best heads available before they redesigned the block for the LZ4 3500/LZ9 3900 engines.  The LX9 heads will fit on the LA1.  Flex Fuel versions were only on the newer 3500/3900 engines.  LA1 specs were 170-185 HP, 200-210 lb-ft.  LX9 was 196-201 HP, 213-221 lb-ft.

Watch out with your T-5 bell housing and the starter location.  The 3400's (all FWD 60* V6s) have the starter on the other side of the engine from the RWD block.  I think there is a S-10 bell housing that has pockets for both the fwd and rwd starter locations.  This might have been from the second gen S-10's that had the 2.2l in them.  Engine mount bosses are laid out for transverse mounting. 

You can always build a hybrid, 3.4 rwd block with 3400 crank/rods/pistons/heads/intake.  Gets you the rwd mounts/starter stuff, but you get the better flow/power of the 3400.  Search thirdgen.org.  Several people have worked on using the FWD v6's in rwd f-bodies.

One last thing.  You can rotate the FWD upper intake around 180* so it points forward.  No need to run it into the firewall.  It all matches up.

If this happens, you're going to have a line of people standing by to drive this thing. 

wvumtnbkr said:

Dusterbd13 said:

Maybe this should be the build thread....

 

Can anyone find me a chassis dyno plot for a stck manual transmission la1 3400? 

This is gonna be fun 

Probably in a few weeks....  However, mine does have a homemade intake and headers.  Close enough?

Mine will to.

So, perfect!

Mr. Lee said:

If this happens, you're going to have a line of people standing by to drive this thing. 

Oh, it's gonna happen.  Already in the works.  Just a matter of how far it goes.

Dusterbd13 said:

According to Google, a full dress longblock is 250lbs

What does that include? Seems about 200lbs short to me if you mean a fully dressed gm v6... 250lbs is lighter than a honda d-series.