AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:Might go ahead and hillbilly my race exhaust:
there were 2 of these in the $10 box o pipes I bought the other day.
where's the flapper?
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:Might go ahead and hillbilly my race exhaust:
there were 2 of these in the $10 box o pipes I bought the other day.
where's the flapper?
In reply to 759NRNG :
It's a work in progress
Tonight I started helping the x pipe find itself. It was a little out of shape to begin with:
but I put it on a workout plan:
and it's already starting to show results:
The straight sections will feed the muffler inlets, as well as help align all the bits for assembly.
quittin' time for tonight. More tomorrow, I hope.
A week later and I finally got some garage time. I extended the short side of each bend, then marked and cut the first one:
Then I butted them together and marked the second bend based on where I cut the first:
cut the second, cleaned up the gaps, and did a good-for-me weld job on about 95% before blowing through and making a giant wart of a repair. :-( and here's the result:
my allergies are kicking pretty hard today, i don't think I'm going out again without my grinding mask.
Looks good man! You're making good progress with your TIG skills too. As a heads up, looks like you can more than likely get away with turning your amperage ("heat") down. I'd venture a guess you're getting more than adequate penetration on the backside of the weld. Quick pic of inside of the tube will tell all, but based on what I'm seeing, looks like you can drop the amps.
I'm sure you said it before and I forgot, but are you back purging? That in and of itself will help a LOT.
Anyway, keep it up. Looks great.
In reply to GaryC83 :
No back purging, as I don't have a 2nd regulator. I should get one. I appreciate the encouragement and the tips. Here's a shot inside the X, where I had to booger-berkeley close a burn-through. My arc seems to always be more attracted to one side when I'm working in the crotch of the pipes. Have had this problem on every merge I've done.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:No back purging, as I don't have a 2nd regulator. I should get one.
There's another option.
I've used it a lot. It works really well. No more sugaring.
In reply to DarkMonohue :
Yup. Solar flux works fairly well.
Superior also makes a stainless tube welding flux, either in paste or spray. Heard decent things. Never tried it myself as I have a back purge setup, but its just another option.
Solar flux works pretty well but if you don't plan on looking at the inside of your exhaust of supporting a 60lb turbo with those welds it's a waste of time. Fight me internet weld inspectors.
Oh hell yeah!
\../
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:My arc seems to always be more attracted to one side when I'm working in the crotch
Hey now!
Working out rear valence mods to accommodate exhaust tips.
Currently not happy with oval tips in rectangle vent cuts. Good enough for now, but I've got an idea for an attractive future solution.
RacetruckRon said:Solar flux works pretty well but if you don't plan on looking at the inside of your exhaust of supporting a 60lb turbo with those welds it's a waste of time. Fight me internet weld inspectors.
From what I have been told from internet sources is that any weld that is not backpurged is the equivalent of a crack that is waiting to propagate. No idea of how valid that is, but makes some sense.
What I wonder is if the same flux can be used on conventional welds to rust proof the backside of welds that can not be ground clean? Any weld of sufficient penetration is going to leave a trail of oxidated rust on the backside. Would this prevent that?
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:Working out rear valence mods to accommodate exhaust tips.
Currently not happy with oval tips in rectangle vent cuts. Good enough for now, but I've got an idea for an attractive future solution.
For what it's worth, I think it looks great. Any exhaust tips that aren't circles (beyond a bit ovalled maybe) to me, smell of show>go.
the spirit of Stampie helped me tack it:
and lay some decent beads:
time for dinner. gonna trim the cone length and maybe cut and paste a couple more pieces before quitting time.
Cleaned the outside better, but didn't do anything for the inside. Really worked on controlling the heat this time. Inside looks not too bad:
also welded up one side of one V-band to a flex section:
out of the box, the collar around the braid is only tacked in 2 spots, so I fusion-welded along the edge to tie the collar and the braid to the inner flex pipe (partial shown below):
then flattened the edge on the belt sander before fusion-welding the V-band to it. I tried using a little bit of filler but the pretty colors disappeared. :-(
Had a little bit of time this evening so did a couple more bits of exhaust. Like that guy says in that movie: That'll do, Tig. That'll do.
Having a hard time sleeping, hence the 1:50AM post. Miss my pole barn in the woods right about now.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Looking good!
And the colors thing is a... thing. Ideally it should be all chrome ish to light blue, at its darkest. Darker the color the more oxides in it. Granted, they can be cleaned and treated and corrosion resistance restored... but in an ideal world.
Being said, the darker the color, the more oxides (due to more heat, typically.. or a number of other factors....), but staying in the rainbow is definitely a good start. Before when you had the ashy grey welds, that was just far too much heat, not enough argon flow, whatever.
Biggest thing is clean, clean, clean. And get your torch angle, arc length and travel speed in control. Work on smooth fluid consistent welds with even dabs of filler. Combine that with proper argon flow (and post flow!) And a back purge setup and you are golden.
Anyway, great work! Come a long way in a short time, keep it up!
And were you using stainless rod when you tried to fusion weld and introduce filler? Depending on what types of SS I'm doing, I'll use different filler rods. And they do act differently. I tend to use a LOT of 308 stainless rod for exhaust work on 304 tubing, however tubular turbo manifolds and stuff - if it's 321 SS tubing , that will tend to get 347 filler.
That is really looking good Patrick!
In reply to GaryC83 :
i appreciate the pointers. any improvement in my results is largely due to what i've learned from this forum.
filler was not stainless, just ER70S6 or whatever the standard stuff is. i thought about that as i was looking at results. 8-/
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
That's why you lost the color for sure. Grab some 308 (or 308l) or some 347 filler. I like .035" for tube work. If it's dirty material 312 works good, too. Just remember the ruke of thumb with SS is try to weld with a higher # than the material. So, don't weld 321 with 308/312, but 347 works. But 304 can use any of those.
I could not find the zone tonight. I trimmed the rear grille to make room for the tailpipes:
which allowed me to jockey the mufflers a little closer to their final positions. I need to make the muffler hangers and get the mufflers locked down so I can connect the dots to the flex joints. Speaking of which, i got one of them done:
but my welds just sucked so I decided to call it quits before I wrecked something.
Took another bite of elephant tonight:
How many V-bands will you add to that?
Looks fantastic AC.
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