TurnerX19 said:
Do not shorten the teeth. The failure to engage when spaced back proves all of the tooth length is required. Relief cut the aluminum flywheel sounds like the easy job, but did you confirm that the starter to engine ratio is adequit? Would be a shame to clearance the flywheel and still not have enough torque to keep the starter itself alive.
i believe relief cut to flywheel is one of the steps to confirm starter to engine ratio.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
A starter dynamometer is a tool, so budget exempt. Prove the starter's torque first...
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:
TurnerX19 said:
Do not shorten the teeth. The failure to engage when spaced back proves all of the tooth length is required. Relief cut the aluminum flywheel sounds like the easy job, but did you confirm that the starter to engine ratio is adequit? Would be a shame to clearance the flywheel and still not have enough torque to keep the starter itself alive.
i believe relief cut to flywheel is one of the steps to confirm starter to engine ratio.
But now you'll loose your cool timing marks...
I'll see myself out.
Start the engine with the starter as it is and run the grinder at the tooth overrun location until the marks are no longer showing. Use the engine as the lathe drive and the grinder as the cutting tool. Once cleared you could take the time to remove/cleanup/balance if you wanted to get all fancy.
In reply to stafford1500 :
That's what I was going to suggest except the danger way with a lathe tool and adjustable rest. It's just aluminum.
Easy for me to say as I sit in my own machine shop, well the one I work in.
Today I started the engine with no transaxle in place, and the behavior was unchanged. I shot video, but haven't reviewed yet. One thing I noted is that the starter gear didn't fully retract from the flywheel when it slow-cranked, so I think chasing tooth clearance is the right thing to do. I didn't know E36 M3 about starter to flywheel tooth clearance design when I chose the starter location.
stafford1500 said:
Start the engine with the starter as it is and run the grinder at the tooth overrun location until the marks are no longer showing. Use the engine as the lathe drive and the grinder as the cutting tool. Once cleared you could take the time to remove/cleanup/balance if you wanted to get all fancy.
While this method scares me a little, it is indeed what I will do tomorrow afternoon.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
I'm not saying don't do it, I'm just saying be careful. 😜
I'm saying be careful as well . . . the best of them always want blood.
Minor bummer update: one of my C4 ZR1 17x11 sawblades is berkeleyed beyond saving, according to a very respected wheel repair shop nearby. Not only is the barrel severely out of round, but it is twisted relative to the wheel face. I couldn't even get them to do a "no guarantee, no warranty, get it the best you can" waiver. Oh well, silver lining is I won't be buying *four* 335 A7s.