My 1973 TVR 2500M : Renew and Restomod

TVR Scott said:

 argon is still expensive. 

This is why I have always used SolarFlux. I'm going to have to try nitrogen back purging next time. Thanks for the ProTip. 

In reply to RacetruckRon :

Yeah, I looked into using SolarFlux too.  There's also a flux-coated tig-rod that some people use, though I couldn't find any locally.

The nitrogen was a nice trick since I already had the tank and regulator.  The set-up and use was really no big deal too.  A big win, in my mind.

I pulled the gas tank or this evening. Such stiff crunchy old hoses going to it.

Looks ok on the outside.

And then I dumped out about a gallon of nasty smelly old gas.

And then I took out the level sender:

Ugh. That's going to need replacement.

The tank is full of rusty crusty goo. So much.

How we liking the rust dissolver from Eastwood or similar? I think it's solid enough to save, but it sure is gross inside.

In reply to TVR Scott :

I resurrected a 1970 CB750 tank that had gas in it for 30 years using dollar store powdered oxy-clean. Mix as per directions and use hot water. A lot of the junk in there is probably varnish, and not rust. After you get the varnish out, use a rust converter to protect the metal.

In theory, you can do it yourself.  But if you have an shop that rebuilds radiators, they maybe able to clean it for you.

So you don't have to deal with all of the stuff that comes out, and how you should refinish it.  I've done that with two fuel tanks in the past, and they turned out great- a much better spend of my time-money when working on a car.

https://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-From-A-Motorcycle-Gas-Ta/

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public4/gas-tank-cleaning-1.cfm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-dNX8Q7Jh4

You need a battery charger,  a strip of metal and some soda ash from the pool supply store:

I've completed the process on 2 tanks so far (X1/9 and Toyota Landcruiser) and it works great. On both tanks I coated the inside with this: https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Repair-Kit

EDIT:

Also keep in mind that line of sight matters from the area being cleaned to the anode. I ran my last setup for 4 days, and cleaned/moved the anode about every 12 hours. It really helps to pull that anode out and scrape off the accumulated junk. I would then grind it back to shiny metal. 

Good info.  Thanks, everyone.

In reply to Recon1342 :

That would be worth a try for sure.  It is hard to tell what's rust and what's varnish.  Looks like some of each.

In reply to alfadriver :

I may look into the radiator shop option.  I'll need to have my radiator done for sure, as it is also full of dried gunk.  I had a Spitfire radiator done years ago and the place did a good job, but that neighborhood has now gentrified.  I think there are some high-end condos there now.

In reply to alfadriver :

how long ago did you do this?   if while living in A2, is the shop you used still around?

AngryCorvair said:

In reply to alfadriver :

how long ago did you do this?   if while living in A2, is the shop you used still around?

Well, I didn't actually arrange it, my mechanic in Dearborn Heights did...  I dropped two radiator and two fuel tanks off, and a few month later (I wasn't in a hurry), they came back, good as new.  I suspect the shops are in the Dearborn/Dearborn Heights area.

In reply to alfadriver :

is your guy still around?   maybe you could ask him who he used, and let me know?

In reply to AngryCorvair :

I think so, but I haven't talked to him in about 5 or so years.  And the job was at least 10 years ago.  So they could be gone.... 

I can actually smell this through the internet. When I did the Healey 100-4 it had the same demeanor...Since I did not want to mess with the smell or the chances of it clogging filters every time it was driven, I just ordered a new tank. Maybe not so easy in your case.

In reply to mblommel :

This electrolysis process is really interesting.  I'm thinking I'll give it a try.  So here goes with a bunch of questions:

How much gunk/varnish/flakes will this take off?  Or does the tank need to be cleaned before it's de-rusted?

I'm concerned about cleaning behind the tank baffles and in areas that are line-of-sight.  Did you have any areas like this, and if so how'd you approach them?

What do you do with the used solution when you're finished?  Safe to dump in the sewer?

Thanks for all the info!

In reply to TVR Scott :

The oxy clean will be disposable like any regular detergent solution... the results are well worth it if you are on a budget. Here’s a glance at the inside of the tank after I got it clean- a bit of discoloration but nothing left to flake off. 

Did the electrolysis thing with the Bugeye leaf springs. Here is one right out of the bath after a quick wipe.

Not a chemist, so not sure what the black is Iron Ferrite? But non the less, it is something that comes off with a wire wheel. So, do I want it inside the tank? How stable is it?  Below is after some time with a wire wheel

Here is the spring when I started the experiment. Right out of the bucket after an overnight stay. Note that I already went over it with a wire wheel. Decided that it had to come apart. After  dipping the individual leafs it had to be wire wheeled again. Not sure that for all the fuss and two day time delay it would not have been just as well to wire wheel the  parts from the start.

Not only is it very directional but the anode gunks up pretty quick and seems to want cleaning off.

In reply to Recon1342 :

Just because Oxyclean cleaned it off does not mean it's safe to put down the sewer....  Those are still long chain HC's that are stuck with little bits of rust.  Unless the cleaner combusted all of the former fuel, it's still fuel.  Which is one of the reasons I suggest finding a specific place to clean it.

I suppose dumping the waste-water in the alley and lighting it on fire will reduce my environmentalist street-cred.

I'm going to call my local turbo-ninja mechanic and ask him for a recommendation on how to clean the tank and get rid of the waste.

In reply to TVR Scott :

Portland is, well, Portland, so I'm not sure how weird we are in that regard, but our local dump has a hazardous waste area where you can take pretty much anything, no charge (at least for non-commercial folks), and they'll dispose of it properly. From compact fluorescents to brake fluid to... well, I haven't stumped them yet, and they haven't batted an eye at the occasional stuff that I didn't even know what it was.

In reply to Ransom :

I'm looking into similar drop-offs.

I know you can arrange a Haz-mat pick-up thru City of Denver, but they usually want things labeled in original containers.

TVR Scott said:

In reply to mblommel :

This electrolysis process is really interesting.  I'm thinking I'll give it a try.  So here goes with a bunch of questions:

How much gunk/varnish/flakes will this take off?  Or does the tank need to be cleaned before it's de-rusted?

I'm concerned about cleaning behind the tank baffles and in areas that are line-of-sight.  Did you have any areas like this, and if so how'd you approach them?

What do you do with the used solution when you're finished?  Safe to dump in the sewer?

Thanks for all the info!

I dried my tank out by leaving it open for a few days. I shop vacuumed it to remove loose material. I also banged on the outside of the tank with a rubber mallet to knock more stuff loose. My landcruiser tank did have baffles and I got around those by putting a plastic mesh sleeve on the anode to keep it from shorting out.

I was lucky because there were holes in the baffles the anode would fit through. I dumped the used solution in my yard. Not the most environmentally friendly, but I'm not doing it every day either. The solution is basically water and rust particles, so not Love Canal levels of pollution.

90% of the rust particles were collected on the anode and scraped off. Those were swept up and placed in the trash.

There's a national franchise company called Gas Tank Renu that cleans, repairs and coats old gas tanks.  If you decide to not attack it yourself, you could check to see if they have a store near you.  https://www.gastankrenu.com

Years ago, used to use a vinegar solution and  some marbles.  After shaking it around, dump it.  Then I would use  old refrigerator door magnets inside after it dried.  This would grab any rust.  Then use a tank coating.  Granted, this was on motorcycle tanks.

Just pulled the trigger on a PA-2 pump assembly from Tanks Inc.  Looks like it'll be a great little unit.

I also bought their Corvette Fuel Filter/Regulator kit.  I didn't notice this before - it's an integral filter and regulator unit with a return line.  It delivers fuel at 58 psi.  I need 55 psi for the EcoBoost - What's 3 psi among friends?

Over the weekend I worked more on the exhaust.  Got the down-pipe pretty well tacked and fitted, and the branch pipe is coming along. I'm probably going to hold on it for now and finish it later once more of the car is sorted.

My daughter and I started working out a more detailed intercooler pipe layout too.

I like where it's going, though some of the silicone bends get pretty tight.  I'm nervous about collapsing elbows - especially that far one on the intercooler exit.  I'm going to mess around a bit with the aluminum tubes and my welder.  See if I can get some subtle bends going.

Oh nelly, my credit card is burning today!  Just ordered a Good Part adaptor kit and upgraded CV axles for the R200 differential!  That's the last major expense - at least until I get to paint/interior stuff.  And I upgraded to ARP wheel studs, because what's another $20 at this point?

In other news, I found a drop-off location for my gas-tank waste-water, so I've been soaking it in Oxy-Clean solution.  I've gotten a bunch of rust out and it's starting to look a bit cleaner. 

I'm leaning strongly towards cutting access holes in each compartment.  That will let me do a proper job cleaning and resealing the tank.  I need to cut a hole for the fuel pump in the center section anyway.  I'll just make some nice matching access ports on the other sections.  Gaskets, lids, done.

Fuel pump!

Extra credit to the Tanks Inc guys for swapping one of the 3/8" QC fittings out for a second 5/16" fitting. That's the needed size for my high pressure fuel pump.