Back on the ground!
It's been off the wheels since Nov. 2019. So cool to have it be a roller again.
Mind you, it'll be back off the wheels and on the stands in the relatively near future, but regardless a satisfying milestone.
Back on the ground!
It's been off the wheels since Nov. 2019. So cool to have it be a roller again.
Mind you, it'll be back off the wheels and on the stands in the relatively near future, but regardless a satisfying milestone.
Today - Custom driveshaft goodness:
It even fits! (Not crazy surprising since there was much test fitting involved)
Big thanks to David at Colorado Drive Shaft for this unit. He really knows his stuff and is super pleasant to work with. If any of you Denver folks need this kind of work, I can recommend him.
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
Ever been told that your driveshaft is sexy? I especially like the protection on the yoke.
You're really progressing at a rapid pace! Well, compared to my snail-like progress. I'm glad to see everything coming together, even if, as you say, it will come apart somewhat. I see myself where you are in a few months if things go as planned, but then there's the body, wiring, interior, dash, paint... sooo much more to do! Best not to think about that and take pride in how much you've accomplished!
Thats looking amazing.
I know youve sat on the frame and made vroom noises, right?
Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:Thats looking amazing.
I know youve sat on the frame and made vroom noises, right?
I may have...
Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:Thats looking amazing.
I know youve sat on the frame and made vroom noises, right?
That's funny. Last week when I moved things around in the garage, I rolled the TVR out and up the driveway. I then sat on the frame, released the parking brake, and "drove" it down the hill back to the garage! So, I drove my TVR for the first time!
I glad im not alone in that being a part of hobby.
Stampie (FS) said:In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
Ever been told that your driveshaft is sexy? I especially like the protection on the yoke.
This talk has me so excited, it makes me want to discuss FLUIDS!!
Specifically engine oil and gear oil. I'm thinking of getting Red Line for everything. Any recommendations for engine oil weight? Or should I go with Motorcraft instead, because Ford engine?
What about gear oil? Flyin Miata suggests 50/50 blend of Lightweight Shock-proof and MTL for "Maximum gearbox protection". Since the trans is likely my weak link here, I'd like some extra protection.
Now what about the diff? The viscous LSD shouldn't need anything particularly fancy, right? Same blend as the transmission?
Redline is good stuff, and it's hard to go against a Flyin Miata recommendation for a Miata transmission. But the old Mazdaspeed Miata forum guys recommended using Ford XT-M5-QS manual transmission fluid in the MSM, so that's what I've been using for over 10 years. It improved the shift quality of my 6-speed noticeably. Just make sure the trans gets GL-4. For the diff, I'd think it would use GL-5 if the Nissan diff will take the EP additives.
Thanks, Joe.
I looked in my Focus owner's manual and they're suggesting a Motorcraft Synthetic Blend for the engine. I think I'll just get that and not think about the engine oil any more.
I'm now a bit more confused on trans oil. Pegasus says LW-shockproof shouldn't be used with synchro transmissions. I'll probably just plug my ears and follow FM's advice.
LSD oil remains an open question...
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
A lot of Ford guys swear by Motorcraft Synth Blend but I only touch full synth, blend is such a scam. Motorcraft may have a higher ratio than most but I don't think it's published?
Personally I dump whatever full synth I can find on sale in my Fords.
I called up the local road-race speed shop (that I didn't know existed) and ordered some Redline MT-90 for the trans and the GL-5 gear oil for the diff. That was their recommendation, so I just went with it.
Picked up all the gear oil this afternoon:
Turns out it's expensive, and oil-bottle shaped.
The guys at the fancy race shop were super unfriendly. I felt very unwelcome. Maybe they had some important Porsches to work on or something.
Oh well.
Question on Earl's Swivel-Seal fittings. I need to swap out this 90 deg fitting to one of the straight ones. Will it reseal by just swapping the body out? Or does the cutter need to dig into fresh hose material?
I'm guessing I need to cut off an inch or so and start with fresh hose. But I thought I'd ask first.
Got the transmission fill/drain plugs out. They were not very tight - probably just from the wrecker draining the oil.
I need new crush washer for those, but otherwise should be able to fill 'er up.
The fill plug on the differential is Harley-tight! I couldn't budge it, even with a pretty long extension on the 1/2" ratchet. Any secret knowledge?
damarble said:In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
A lot of Ford guys swear by Motorcraft Synth Blend but I only touch full synth, blend is such a scam. Motorcraft may have a higher ratio than most but I don't think it's published?
Personally I dump whatever full synth I can find on sale in my Fords.
I think I've posted this before elsewhere but I honestly don't know why anyone runs anything other than full synthetic in an engine that they care about and was made in the last 30 years. Especially anything forced induction or at all high stress. The cost difference between blend and full is basically nothing and even full synthetic is dirt cheap right now. Go to walmart and pick up a 5qt jug of castrol edge or mobil1 in whatever viscosity you need for like $25 or less. I would run the motorcraft filter just because they're ford approved and cheap and seem to work.
Ok, sounds like the full synthetic is worth it. I'll pick some up at the FLAPS.
I just called Holley tech support, and the guy there said I did not have to cut off my oil hose and start with a new end. He said the Swivel Seal fitting should seal up just fine on the already-cut hose. So that's handy.
Just went out and put some extra muscle into that diff fill plug and I managed to get it out.
The square wrench socket has definitely seen better days - I'm thinking of replacing it with a big hex plug.
Good to hear the fill plug let go. I had one stick in a TR6 gearbox that took the (aluminum) threads with it.
As for oil, I run Castrol Edge in the Fiesta ST and always get it at Walmart now. Saves around $10 per large jug compared to the local FLAPS.
Oil and filters purchased. Crush washers for the trans too. And hose clamps for the coolant lines. Only took visits to four different stores.
Also, today I found out I am not unique. I received my TVR Times magazine, and proceeded to read a story about a guy in New York putting a 2.0 EcoBoost into his 2500M. He even got caught up in the whole Control Pack Snafu of 2018 and got one of the "hand-built" kits like me. He's got a sweet Tremec 5 spd, but I've already got the LSD and axle upgrades done. But his car runs. And has a million-times nicer body and interior.
EcoBoost swaps. They're like the new LS now - everyone's doing it.
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
Yeah I got a similar shocker the other day. There's a big 2.3EB thread in progress over at Vintage Mustang Forum which I have been participating in and this new guy pops in talking about swapping his Datsun Roadster with a 2.3 and NC Miata trans. Can't I have anything unique?
I had a couple friends stop by last night to help out. Really fun getting together with them, since I've only seen them once in a while in the last year.
Got lots done (here he goes with the bullet points again...):
And the big thing was getting the oil lines run from the engine to the filter housing, to the oil cooler, and back.
The cooler is obviously still roughed in, but I'm pretty sure I know where I'm going there.
Did a bit more just now. I made some plugs and set up the first welded water line for pressure testing:
For the most part, it seemed fine. I did get a persistent leak at the temp-sensor boss. I wrenched it down pretty hard, but still got lots of soap bubbles from that joint. I'll pull it apart and check the mating surface. Not sure if I'll need to get a new crush washer. Any TR6 experts have advice?
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
Is that fitting straight or pipe thread? I would put ARP thread sealer on the threads and maybe try a fiber washer instead of copper. It doesn't appear that the weld joint is leaking.
In reply to JoeTR6 :
Straight thread - something like 7/8"? It was definitely leaking around the copper washer.
I'll order up some of that thread sealant and give it a try.
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