My 1973 TVR 2500M : Renew and Restomod

USERNAMETAKEN said:

I'm trying to get the seat frames off to the upholsterer, and can't figure out how to get out the old drilled out rivet-nuts.  I don't really want to leave them in there, since they'll probably rattle.  But the "popped" portion is too big to come out the correctly sized hole.  Any secret techniques?  Glop a bunch of silicone on them, and put in the new riv-nut...

 

I've had that issue before.  My solution (other than learn to live with it) was to drill a bigger hole in the tube and shake until they all fell out.  Then I welded the hole up.  

IF you want to make a list of the hardware you need, I’ll give you the part numbers you need. (I’m a Ford parts guy.) 

Saron81 said:

IF you want to make a list of the hardware you need, I’ll give you the part numbers you need. (I’m a Ford parts guy.) 

Thank you!  I'll take you up on that!

Since you're a Ford parts guy, I've got a specific question: does a new Mustang MT82 6 speed transmission have any kind of PATS system attached to it?  I'm guessing not, since that seems more like an automatic thing.

In reply to USERNAMETAKEN :

No, Ford’s pats system is contained in bcm, and pcm,  and has no effect on, or communication with the trans. There should be very little wiring to a manual trans (probably just oss and backup lamps off the top of my head.)  Let me know when you get your list together. 

Nice.  Good to know.  Though I'm now pondering a TKO-500 trans.  I can get a bell-housing from Quicktime.  Has the multiple position shifter.  Not the cheapest, but would hold up forever.  Better shifting than the MT82, I'd guess.  I kind of like the gear ratios better.

Bolts I need right now:

• Intake Manifold
• Alternator - one lower stud is still in there, but the other two are missing.
• Starter
• Plug-coil bolts
• Motor mounts

Do you know if the Mustang 2.3 EB motor mounts will bolt to the 2.0?  I'm guessing they will.

Also, the seats are all ready to go to the upholstery shop.  I was going to drop them off yesterday, but I forgot those guys take off at noon on Fridays.

Intake bolts: W500313-S437

alternator: W715399-S442

starter: W706194-S415

coils, they show a bolt and a stud.

 bolts: W500301-S437

stud: W715638-S443

do you want the hardware for the Mustang mounts?

In reply to Saron81 :

Awesome.  Thank you!

Sure, I'd like to know those motor mount bolts too.  Can the actual mounts be bought separately?

Got into the engine work a bit over the weekend.

First - What's It Weight?  TR-4 transmission with overdrive.  With fluid.  100 lb straight-up.

Balance shaft assembly from 2.0 EcoBoost: 18.5 lb

Here's the engine as it looked when I pulled the stock pan off:

The N/S kit includes a new oil pick up, so the black plastic one gets removed.  The stock pan is actually shallower than the new one from the kit by about an inch, so I might actually go back to it if I want to lower the engine.  I don't have cross-member clearance problems, so definitely a possibility.  At that point I'd yank the new oil pick-up and put the old one back on.

New crank-case breather is on.  The blue elbow connects to an included hose that runs to the new intake manifold.  All straightforward for that part.  Anyone know what the sensor is that's below that knock-sensor on the right?

Here's the new coolant lines installed.

That loose turbo line has to connect with the port on the underside, I assume.  Probably can just cut down the hard line and re-route the hose.  This is a bit like putting together a puzzle without knowing what the ending picture looks like...

In reply to USERNAMETAKEN :

Yes, the brackets that bolt to the engine are a separate piece from the actual mounts that the Mustang uses. If you want to pm me an email address I can sent you pics.

In reply to Saron81 :

Message sent.  Thanks for all the help!

I'm thinking the TKO 5 spd transmission is the way to go.

I'd never have to worry about torque rating.  The shifting would be smooth.  Shifter location is adjustable.

A very nice guy from Tremec Customer Service sent me a drawing with some height and width dimensions scribbled in.  I compared them to the TR-4 box, and they're really pretty similar.  The TKO should fit totally fine.

Bell-housing can come from Quicktime.

Not sure what exactly to do for clutch and all that.  In the spirit of not spending stupid money, I'm thinking of starting with a stock Focus ST flywheel and starter.  From there it'll need some sort of semi-custom clutch to go with the 26 spline TKO.  Will need to see about throwout bearings and pilot bearings.  Hopefully there's a reasonable combination.

Are people having issues with the Mustang's gear box behind tuned 2.3 Ecoboosts?

In reply to RossD :

Not specifically that I know of.  The earlier MT-82 units seemed to have a lot of issues that could make them not work well, but it sounds like they've improved them some.  There are other issues that make me concerned.

Shifter location and mounting is the big one.  The shifter is the remote mount assembly, and it's set much farther back than what I need.  I don't know that I can make new components that will relocate it properly.  And I'm not feeling like blowing $1500 on a junkyard trans to experiment.

I also think the MT-82 might be too big for the trans tunnel.  This is purely gut feel based on photos, but again it would take getting one to find out.

Saron81 said:

Intake bolts: W500313-S437

alternator: W715399-S442

starter: W706194-S415

coils, they show a bolt and a stud.

 bolts: W500301-S437

stud: W715638-S443

 

 

do you want the hardware for the Mustang mounts?

You sir are a parts ninja.  Thanks for all the off-line help sorting out the mystery puzzle I've gotten myself into.  I look forward to the first box of miscellaneous junk!

Got the oil block-off plate for the balance shaft delete.  Boy, talk about a big box with a tiny part.  Someone needs to tell Ford Racing about mailing envelopes...

I've got the new oil pick-up in and the block is prepped for the new oil pan. 

What do you all like to use for prepping the metal before applying the gasket-maker?  I scrubbed the old sealant off with mineral spirits.  Usually I'd use acetone for that job, but I ran out.  Do I need a special etchant? 

There's a baffle in the old pan that I guess I could install in the new pan.  There are posts in the casting for it anyway.  Towards the back, in the deep part of the pan.

In reply to USERNAMETAKEN :

No problem. Glad to help!

Ford makes a aerosol spray gasket remover designed for this. Part # ZC-30-A.

Wow!  Great to see you making such progress....so  quickly!   You are doing the old TVR proud!   

Joe Gearin said:

Wow!  Great to see you making such progress....so  quickly!   You are doing the old TVR proud!   

Thanks, Joe!  I'm working thru it.  It really needs just about everything.  Some days I get frustrated, and some days go great.  Though I think everyone on this board would understand that sentiment.

For a previous project, I was eyeballing the Duratech/Ecoboost/MZR oil pump as a cheap off the shelf oil pump to be used in a scavenge "stand alone" situation for a DIY drysump. Since it's staring at you, and I've never had one in front of me, does it look feasible?

RossD said:

For a previous project, I was eyeballing the Duratech/Ecoboost/MZR oil pump as a cheap off the shelf oil pump to be used in a scavenge "stand alone" situation for a DIY drysump. Since it's staring at you, and I've never had one in front of me, does it look feasible?

Interesting question.  It looks like it might work pretty well for that.

Bottom view:

Mounting bolts are from the front cover into the block.  Pick up is just a simple o-ring connection and the two bolts there.

Chain drive.  Looks like just a single bolt holding on the sprocket.  Probably could retrofit as needed.

Looks to be an oil passage out the back side of the pump.  The passage goes straight to the oil filter housing.  Probably just an o-ring on the back side of the pump.  So you could make a mounting plate with some matching tapped holes and have a fitting connected to the same plate.  Probably a straightforward install.

Joe Gearin said:

Wow!  Great to see you making such progress....so  quickly!   You are doing the old TVR proud!   

BTW, I haven't had the heart to text Jeff about the new motor.  He was so fired up that I keep his old one, but that just wasn't going to happen.  I feel like the EcoBoost is within the spirit of the vehicle though...

Anyone else see a crack in that tack weld or is it just me?

In reply to USERNAMETAKEN :

Great! Thanks for that!

dherr said:

The shop I used does not want to start with OEM used components but would make me anything I wanted. So in my case that was Miata 6 speed to a Subaru R160. The biggest advantage was that it was new, safe and balanced to 9,000 RPM.  I used Driveshaft shop, it was not inexpensive, but worth it to me. I am sure there are local shops that can do it cheaper, but this is one area that I needed to be sure it was solid. Cost was around $375

My apologies for the minor threadjack, but I'd like to know more about what's going on ^here.

Is there a build thread for this car?