In reply to NOHOME :
You had to say that after I glued on the oil pan yesterday afternoon....
Hi-Res view of the same picture:
So, maybe so. Might be cracked. Looking at the picture, it appears the parts were tacked then brazed. So maybe the tack is just a tack.
I really don't feel like popping off the oil pan again...
In reply to USERNAMETAKEN :
Lets go with "looks brazed to me" and not worry.
Pete
NOHOME said:In reply to USERNAMETAKEN :
Lets go with "looks brazed to me" and not worry.
Pete
I like it. Let's go with it.
It doesn't look cracked to me. There are a few striations in the bead, but nothing I'd call abnormal.
Is that a Tree CNC mill on the first post? I had a Hurco CNC Knee mill I converted to Mach 3. That ford 4 cyl is perfect
NOHOME said:In reply to USERNAMETAKEN :
Lets go with "looks brazed to me" and not worry.
Pete
Definitely some sort of filler material and a heat affected zone. If it's not brazed, someone sure tried to make it look brazed.
In reply to MarshHoltRacing :
I like the old iron. Good stuff.
Yes, mine is a Tree Journeyman 325. 80's vintage, and still running the Dynapath Delta 10 controls. I'll eventually swap to Mach3, but it runs so well that I've not ever made the change. The biggest limitation is the 56K of memory. Otherwise that old beasty handles more than I can throw at it!
The guy I bought it from had two 325's and a 90's era 425. He sold them all and bought two brand new Hurco VMCs and an NC lathe. He makes high-end bike frame fixtures, and business is good.
In reply to USERNAMETAKEN :
Which maker of bike frame fixtures? I'm so curious...
He makes high-end bike frame fixtures, and business is good.
The yak rancher?
Ransom said:In reply to USERNAMETAKEN :
Which maker of bike frame fixtures? I'm so curious...
Anvil Bikes.
USERNAMETAKEN said:Ransom said:In reply to USERNAMETAKEN :
Which maker of bike frame fixtures? I'm so curious...
Anvil Bikes.
Yaks too. He's a friend from the old emptybeer days. Likes ACVWs and has a couple nice ones.
Yeah, he's definitely into air-cooled v-dubs. I saw a van with a Porsche engine in it when I was there.
So he's raising yaks now? That's a unusual, to say the least!
USERNAMETAKEN said:So he's raising yaks now? That's a unusual, to say the least!
He's still doing well with the fixtures, but raising yaks too. Most of them have names. For instance, Yakatha Christie just had a calf. I'm convinced the Dos Equis "most interesting man in the world" would go on a depression fueled bender if he ever met DF
We have an Anvil frame jig in our workshop- your friend (to quote) said there would be “blood on the streets” if the US had to pay the VAT and import duty that we do here in the U.K.
Great fixture anyway, in constant heavy use.
Ugh, just lost a big update. Here's the shorter version.
Old oil pan baffle can be moved to the new pan. Here it is in the old pan:
And the spot on the new pan:
Drilling the pan. Yes, it works great to invert the drill press table. Yes, the table will fall out if you're not careful. Don't ask how I know...
Baffle installed, pan cleaned up, and gasket-maker applied.
And pan installed on the block.
That's it for now.
On a business front, I'm super happy that I just had a big automation job come through. We've been quoting it for about a year and this customer can be flighty, but they say PO by Friday. It'll mean about 4 months of work for me. Yay, bill paying!
Maybe I'll buy a transmission to celebrate...
Holy E36 M3! That inverted drill press table trick is inspired!
Oh how much I wish I knew that years ago.
Crackers said:Holy E36 M3! That inverted drill press table trick is inspired!
Oh how much I wish I knew that years ago.
Thanks! I have to fess up and say I just thought up that trick when I was figuring out how to drill the oil pan. So it's a new trick for me too! I'm thinking that adding a snap ring or some sort of retaining collar to the center pivot on the drill press would make this kind of set up much easier. Will have to look at that.
Aw, jeez. I'm flailing now. I'm freaking out.
The evening started so reasonable. I got a big box with the new engine harness. Part of the fun of this swap - unless you buy a Focus ST motor you have to buy a new engine harness.
So my daughter and I started messing about with this puzzle missing th picture. We didn't do bad for a first effort:
Across the coils isn't bad, and around the front to the cam sensors and then down to the crank sensor and some exhaust sensor. No big deal. Even looks kind of cool. Around the back side it plugs into the fuel pressure line and some other semi-identified stuff.
Then farther down:
Really don't know what's supposed to be going on here. Got the oil pressure plug, and that's about it! Knock sensors? Nope. Fuel injectors: Nope. I'm guessing that big fat connector on the top right goes to a sub-sub-harness.
Some of this stuff will surely get removed. I've not even gotten to that yet.
Then there's all this on the back side and hanging over to the turbo side:
Bunch of undetermined plugs for undetermined components there. I'm not even showing the 1000-pin bulk connectors on the non-engine side. I'm assuming the control pack (whenever it ships) will be helpful with all that.
Then, I said, "Hey Lucy, wanna see what the back side of the valves look like?" Whip out the old phone-flashlight...
Oh pee, poop, and farts:
This is cylinder 3 and it's the worst. Quite a bit of surface rust there. I reached down with a bit of rag and some of it came off just like it was grease. I know this car got cracked in the front end, but apparently the coolant got in the head and sat around a while.
Whatta you think, oh wise internet? Am I screwed? Will I be pulling the head, when I really didn't want to? Will I be licking my wounds, angrily returning the engine to the scrap yard and thinking up a different, but not so wacky and beautiful of an idea? Or is this not really a big deal?
I’d take a gander in there, but I don’t think you’re screwed. Were the manifolds in place when you bought the motor, or were they gone?
Intake manifold was gone. I think it got shattered in the accident. Last night I even found a piece of it in the #4 intake tract.
In reply to USERNAMETAKEN :
Could just be from exposure, then. Doesn’t take much...
Ignoring any terrors of rusty valves, I have been looking in to clutches and all that. Would appear that a Focus ST has a 10-spline 1-1/16" input shaft, which means - if I understand all this correctly - that I can use a stock ST clutch and flywheel with a TKO-500 transmission. Hooray! No need for a fancy $1500 clutch/flywheel combo!
Back at it over the weekend. I figured out some of the new harness. The Control Pack manual lists connectors that can be removed, so I found and tagged those. I don't think I'm going to tear into the engine harness too much until the Control Pack arrives. That'll be the real indicator of what gets plugged in and what doesn't.
The coolant temp sensor wiring will clearly need to be "un-harnessed" and moved. Here's the old sensor location on the right compared to the new one on the left. The connector is on the right where it would connect before.
That one isn't major surgury. I already separated it from the harness, and the wires it was bundled with are on the "remove" list.
I've got the intake manifold roughed on, and the alternator in place, and I wanted to do another engine test fit. So that was this afternoon's activity. Definitely everything got tighter with the alternator on.
Just what I feared - the alternator is pretty well competing for the same space as the original engine mount. I really wanted to leave that in place and unmolested, but I think it's going to have to come off. I will probably set up the alternator on the mill and see how much I can take off the mounts before they look like they belong on a Lotus. There's a lot of metal there, but I might be able to gain a 1/2" or so.
Either way, I can't really go forward of the motor mount, and I can't really go behind. I think it's gonna get torched. I'll measure them and make a 3d model so that if for some reason I ever want one I'll have the info.
Top view of the same:
Here's the top view. It's just too much of a conflict.
I had another bracket to deal with - this one held the old electric fuel pump:
That one was interfering with the intake manifold. At least this one just bolts on. Unfortunately the bolts were buried in the driver's side foot-well behind the steering rack. Couldn't even see the nuts! Got one off by braille, and couldn't get the other one more than a little loose. I ended up hack-sawing the other bolt from the engine side.
I'm not actually clear on whether that pump was factory or added later. This car has a lot of questions like that.
On the turbo side, I will probably be doing some rerouting of oil and coolant lines, since the factory hard-pipe sticks out more than I'd like. We'll see what kind of room I have once the driver's side clearance issues get resolved.
I found these guys in the UK making RWD conversions (hence the name...)
http://www.rwdmotorsport.com/duratec-engine-to-ford-gearbox-hydraulic-clutch-bellhousing.html
I'm wondering if this would work for my 2.0 EcoBoost / TKO combination. IIRC, the Duratec is the same block as the EB. And I think a TKO and a T5 share the same pattern as well.
As an aside, I spent a junior year abroad in college at Lancaster Uni just up the road from those guys. Good times!
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