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JoeTR6
JoeTR6 Dork
9/28/22 4:31 p.m.

It might be a little early to think about paint, but here's what I'd go with.

The Minilites don't look bad either.

CoolHandMoss
CoolHandMoss Reader
9/29/22 5:09 p.m.

Don't forget about helper springs. If the rates are suitable helper springs could be preferable to longer springs. Or even tender springs because you rarely, if ever, see full droop up front. I always tended toward shorter springs and helpers on racing set ups to maintain more headroom on ride height adjustments. 

TVR Scott
TVR Scott SuperDork
10/8/22 8:44 p.m.

Did stuff related to hood hinges today.

I ordered some 1-1/4" steel tubing to go inside the hood mounting points on the frame.  The factory hinge bolted to the outside, but that is certified janky.  The inside frame tubing is just a bit smaller thank 1.25, so I fired up the mill and took off 0.025" per side.  I made the small sections a bit longer than needed, in case I need to allow of some adjustment.  Probably not necessary.

Here it is in place:

I mounted the hood latched back onto the body.  I'll use these to help me get the hood lined up for the front end stuff.

I did install rivet-nuts in the body while I was at it.  Passenger's side:

And driver's side:

The illustrious PO was up to some shenanigans on the pedal mounting arrangement.  There's way more holes in there than are needed.  And the fiberglass is all crushed and beat up.  Again, that dude is the best.

Test fit on the hood looks pretty good:

The latches aren't quite holding tightly yet, but I'll get them figured out.

Right now ride height at the crank pulley is about 1" higher than it was with the old engine.

That's all for now.  Fun day in the shop - I needed that!

wheelsmithy (Joe-with-an-L)
wheelsmithy (Joe-with-an-L) PowerDork
10/9/22 9:37 a.m.

Always a pleasure to see progress on this one. Inspirational work.

JoeTR6
JoeTR6 Dork
10/9/22 11:34 a.m.

Did TVR use a TR6 pedal box?  The bolt pattern looks similar but without the center row of bolts.

That's a lot of hardware to hold in a pedal box.  There are also 4 studs on the brake booster.

It's good to see the hood in place.

TVR Scott
TVR Scott SuperDork
10/10/22 3:55 p.m.

In reply to JoeTR6 :

It is the same pedal box as the TR6, though there are lots of extra holes in that mounting plate too.  And spacers.  For uncertain reasons.

 

Westwood95
Westwood95
10/11/22 5:57 p.m.

Hi you all. Great thread with lots of good detail. Lovely to see so many contributors. I have built one TVR Vixen thats posted in members cars and now building another race car. 5000m.

I am very interested in the roof panel if you have any left. Keep up the good work.

Slow_M
Slow_M Reader
10/15/22 1:36 p.m.
Westwood95 said:

Hi you all. Great thread with lots of good detail. Lovely to see so many contributors. I have built one TVR Vixen thats posted in members cars and now building another race car. 5000m.

I am very interested in the roof panel if you have any left. Keep up the good work.

What stage are you at? I’m just getting back into mine, after a very long pause. 

Slow_M
Slow_M Reader
10/15/22 2:38 p.m.
TVR Scott said:

Did stuff related to hood hinges today.

I ordered some 1-1/4" steel tubing to go inside the hood mounting points on the frame.  The factory hinge bolted to the outside, but that is certified janky.  The inside frame tubing is just a bit smaller thank 1.25, so I fired up the mill and took off 0.025" per side.  I made the small sections a bit longer than needed, in case I need to allow of some adjustment.  Probably not necessary.

Here it is in place:

I mounted the hood latched back onto the body.  I'll use these to help me get the hood lined up for the front end stuff.

I did install rivet-nuts in the body while I was at it.  Passenger's side:

And driver's side:

The illustrious PO was up to some shenanigans on the pedal mounting arrangement.  There's way more holes in there than are needed.  And the fiberglass is all crushed and beat up.  Again, that dude is the best.

Test fit on the hood looks pretty good:

The latches aren't quite holding tightly yet, but I'll get them figured out.

Right now ride height at the crank pulley is about 1" higher than it was with the old engine.

That's all for now.  Fun day in the shop - I needed that!

Hood shut line is starting to look good! Hope your hinge allows for adjustments. That thing you called a four bar link is what I was trying to describe in my email. 

Westwood95
Westwood95 New Reader
10/18/22 12:15 p.m.

In reply to Slow_M :

Engine and trans and diff all mounted. Just making roll cage mount points. Next will be building roll cage and fuel tank rear protection.

Slow_M
Slow_M Reader
10/19/22 1:08 a.m.

In reply to Westwood95 :

Must see all details. 

 

TVR Scott
TVR Scott SuperDork
10/19/22 10:59 a.m.
Westwood95 said:

Hi you all. Great thread with lots of good detail. Lovely to see so many contributors. I have built one TVR Vixen thats posted in members cars and now building another race car. 5000m.

I am very interested in the roof panel if you have any left. Keep up the good work.

Yeah, welcome!  Thanks for chiming in.  You should start a build thread on your M too.  I've lost track, but we might be up to 6 different build threads for various M restorations.

I'm not building any roofs right now, but I can add you to the list.  It takes a ton of time and space to set all that up, but I'll get you one sometime.  You have any crushing deadlines?

Westwood95
Westwood95 New Reader
10/19/22 6:26 p.m.

In reply to TVR Scott :

I would like to be ready to paint next Spring.

TVR Scott
TVR Scott SuperDork
10/24/22 4:02 p.m.

In reply to Westwood95 :

Send me a private message and we can discuss.  I'll warn you right away, material prices have gone up a bunch.

Back on the project, I did a bit more messing to get the hood alignment sorted.  This gap looked pretty good - about 5/16" along the edge:

Looks great there, but the other side was a mess.  Basically I could only get it to align on one side or the other.  A bit of investigating, and I found this:

The body sits on the frame about 1/2" too high right behind the front right wheel.  The body should almost cover the tube there.  Hmm.  Well, I know the body will come off again pretty soon, so I'll have to investigate the obstruction then.  Good news is that everything should line up nicely once this is rectified.

Unrelated Airbox beauty shot:

I wasn't sure how to mount the airbox, but turns out the heater box is just about in the perfect spot to act as a mounting surface.  Sweet!  I'll mess with the top edge trim on the airbox once the hood is back on, but so far so good.

What else?  I've been trimming and fitting the front end bulkheads where I'll be mounting hood hinges.  I also ground out all the old steel and fiberglass from the old hood frame.

Left side:

The sharpie marks tell me where to do my bond prep for the bulkheads.  I'll need to add some more material to the bumper mount locations.  Pretty thin there.

Right side:

Funny how the rusted steel discolored the fiberglass.  It was almost like scraping mud out of the gaps.  Gross.

Here's the big picture with both plates in.  I'd like to get these bonded in this week:

My glutes are wrecked from kneeling on the floor all afternoon yesterday.  Body by TVR...

Last little thing I found while working on the hood latches.  The driver's side was super sloppy.  Wonder why?

Easy, because it's broken.  Why wouldn't it be?

It actually looks like it got partly sawn-thru. Really weak and flimsy right there.  We'll get there though.  No worries.  That's all for now!

Dusterbd13-michael
Dusterbd13-michael MegaDork
10/24/22 8:47 p.m.

How do you plan to bond the aluminum? Plate to the fiberglass? This is something ill need to do on the track car, so ill learn from you!

TVR Scott
TVR Scott SuperDork
10/24/22 9:15 p.m.

The bulkheads?  Those are fiberglass/epoxy, so bonding those will be no big deal.  Just scuff both sides, wipe with acetone, and bond.

However, bonding aluminum to fiberglass isn't a super big deal either.  Most of the steps are the same, but there's an additional step.  I'd first scuff the aluminum with scotch-brite or some fine sandpaper.  Just in the bond area - you don't have to do the whole thing.  Then you need some aluminum etching wash - like this.  You'd apply that on the bond area and then thoroughly rinse it off after a few minutes.  Then the panel is ready to bond right away.

Basically the etching wash removes the natural aluminum oxide that forms on any bare aluminum surface.  That lets the epoxy really bond hard to the actual aluminum surface.

Whenever I repaired that rear hub upright (long ago - maybe fall of 2020) I used this technique and then bonded with structural adhesive.  It's pretty simple - just follow the directions and don't splash it on yourself!

TVR Scott
TVR Scott SuperDork
11/2/22 9:05 p.m.

The underside of the hood is starting to clean up pretty well.  You can see where I've sanded and bond-prepped for the new bulkheads:

I also popped out the steel mesh from the grill opening.  I'm thinking of replacing this with stainless mesh for better corrosion resistance.

The mesh was held on by a bunch of resin of some sort.  Might just be thickened polyester resin.  It's brittle and not very strong, though it still sort of puts up a fight when I go to remove it.

A lot of times when I finally get under it I find what only could be described as mud.  Probably dirt and rust creeping in all the creepy-spots, but it feels like the right idea to get it out.

That's all for now.  Lots of hard work, and nothing really show-stopping to write about.  There will be soon, though.  Bonding of the bulkheads is next.  Then hinges and mounting frames are on-deck.

CoolHandMoss
CoolHandMoss Reader
11/3/22 5:48 p.m.

Those red synthetic brush wheels are perfect for getting that resin that holds that stuff in. I get them at harbor freight. They'll take all the junk off without digging into the fiberglass. 

Looking good. Can't wait to see the bulkheads in.

TVR Scott
TVR Scott SuperDork
11/4/22 1:27 p.m.

In reply to CoolHandMoss :

I've got one of those brushes - I'll give it a try.

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