84FSP
84FSP SuperDork
7/31/18 10:03 p.m.

Yep C vs F issue.  If it works it works.  Boxed up it might be fine.  There are some high temp versions that get to ~110c hdt but not sure if they are readily available.

 

PA6 or PA66 would be much preferred but not sure what kind of printer upgrades would be necessary to melt roughly double the hdt.

corsepervita
corsepervita HalfDork
7/31/18 10:26 p.m.

In reply to Matthew Kennedy :

it's not, i installed my own instance of gitlab on one of my linux servers at home and keep all my code on that machine for backup.  i guess i could toss it up on github.

corsepervita
corsepervita HalfDork
7/31/18 10:28 p.m.
T.J. said:

In reply to corsepervita :

Sounds like a plan. I thought PLA started getting soft at 140F or so, but if it works, it works.  If the plastic got soft and gooey from the heat it would suck if some part of it ended up in a cylinder.

I love that you designed and printed your own velocity stacks. Well done!

I was a bit concerned myself which is why i decided to try a few of them on my car and run them around for a good bit of morning before I decided to permanently switch out all the stacks first.  So far have had no problems, shape retained perfectly.  Then again that hood is pretty well ventilated so it doesn't trap a ton of heat.  

I would cry if it got sucked into a cylinder lol.

corsepervita
corsepervita HalfDork
8/14/18 12:34 a.m.

Well guys, I had a booboo with the 3d printer.  The bed warped due to a clog and it was on while I was gone.  I thought, "no problem i'll clear it." started again, came back, same.  Warped it worse.  Ended up being that the tak material used to print on had swollen up and the nozzle was getting stuck into it and made it warp way way way worse.

While the stuff is disposable, I couldn't find my extra sheets.  I had read that printing on glass is basically THE way to go longterm so I said screw it, bought some, along with some heat transfer material and matting and put it down.

Calibrated with differences based on the good spots of the previous material using some feeler gauges and within 15 minutes was back in business.  Now using some hatchbox PLA and the stuff is so insanely dimensionally accurate, with lower printing temps the stuff sticks like glue and oh my god is it precise.

 

I'll get better pics tomorrow when piece #1 is finished, lighting is too dark and printer moving too fast for crisp pics but WOW.  I will never go back to a normal heating bed.

Ram50Ron
Ram50Ron Reader
8/14/18 8:57 a.m.

In reply to corsepervita :

I print on glass or a mirror with glue stick for bed adhesion after having the same problem with every single build pad on the market I settled right back were I started.  Get comfortable with PLA but be prepared to have some growing pains when you step up to ABS and PETG.

corsepervita
corsepervita HalfDork
8/14/18 10:34 a.m.
Ram50Ron said:

In reply to corsepervita :

I print on glass or a mirror with glue stick for bed adhesion after having the same problem with every single build pad on the market I settled right back were I started.  Get comfortable with PLA but be prepared to have some growing pains when you step up to ABS and PETG.

I read that hairspray made things easy, so I sprayed a light mist on it and it so far has stuck like glue.  My understanding on PETG (Have some, never used it), is that it requires a larger nozzle clearance and the bed needs to be set back up to a larger distance.  

I've got the distance pretty well down pat with my feeler gauges when it comes to making sure distance is right on.

corsepervita
corsepervita HalfDork
8/14/18 10:45 a.m.

Progress overnight

Norma66
Norma66 Reader
8/14/18 3:33 p.m.

God i need a 3d printer

corsepervita
corsepervita HalfDork
8/14/18 4:01 p.m.
Norma66 said:

God i need a 3d printer

At this point, I don't think I'd go back to a normal bed, and some of the upgrades make life easier.

I got this printer for like $250, open box special on monoprice.  Since then the additions I've made have been a few tiny mods + glass bed which have cost me a grand total of $40 extra dollars.  There's also fan mods you can print (print your own mods).  

I definitely would do the following:

- Buy the best printer you can in terms of not being something oddly open source unless you LOVE diy stuff.  Find a printer that has reviews and already comes /mostly/ ready out of the box.

- Get the largest print bed you can afford.  No matter how big it is, you will outgrow it, fast.

- Honestly had I known how badass printing on glass is, I would have done it much sooner.  Ditch the tak as soon as you can, get glass.

- Go with the best resolution you can accord.  You can easily print into lower resolutions if you need to modify it, but it's also nice to print at fine resolution for excellent finish work.  I'd at least go 100 microns, even smaller if you can.

For less than $300 though you can have a decent sized printer, some PLA to print with, and since google sketchup and cura are free, have software to start cranking stuff out onto your little factory.  

Ram50Ron
Ram50Ron Reader
8/14/18 4:43 p.m.
corsepervita said:
Norma66 said:

God i need a 3d printer

At this point, I don't think I'd go back to a normal bed, and some of the upgrades make life easier.

I got this printer for like $250, open box special on monoprice.  Since then the additions I've made have been a few tiny mods + glass bed which have cost me a grand total of $40 extra dollars.  There's also fan mods you can print (print your own mods).  

I definitely would do the following:

- Buy the best printer you can in terms of not being something oddly open source unless you LOVE diy stuff.  Find a printer that has reviews and already comes /mostly/ ready out of the box.

- Get the largest print bed you can afford.  No matter how big it is, you will outgrow it, fast.

- Honestly had I known how badass printing on glass is, I would have done it much sooner.  Ditch the tak as soon as you can, get glass.

- Go with the best resolution you can accord.  You can easily print into lower resolutions if you need to modify it, but it's also nice to print at fine resolution for excellent finish work.  I'd at least go 100 microns, even smaller if you can.

For less than $300 though you can have a decent sized printer, some PLA to print with, and since google sketchup and cura are free, have software to start cranking stuff out onto your little factory.  

As a big advocate for personal hobby printers I just want to +1 this and offer some 3DP advice.  3D printers do not work perfectly out of the box no matter how much money you spend on them.  You have to be a tinkerer, at least a little bit.  I'd suggest picking up something like a Creality CR-10, one of the most capable hobby printers out there for the money.  You will be hard pressed to out grow that quickly and it comes mostly assembled out of the box.

Sorry for the threadjack corsepervita, back to 3d printing Lambo parts.

corsepervita
corsepervita HalfDork
8/14/18 6:33 p.m.
Ram50Ron said:
corsepervita said:
Norma66 said:

God i need a 3d printer

At this point, I don't think I'd go back to a normal bed, and some of the upgrades make life easier.

I got this printer for like $250, open box special on monoprice.  Since then the additions I've made have been a few tiny mods + glass bed which have cost me a grand total of $40 extra dollars.  There's also fan mods you can print (print your own mods).  

I definitely would do the following:

- Buy the best printer you can in terms of not being something oddly open source unless you LOVE diy stuff.  Find a printer that has reviews and already comes /mostly/ ready out of the box.

- Get the largest print bed you can afford.  No matter how big it is, you will outgrow it, fast.

- Honestly had I known how badass printing on glass is, I would have done it much sooner.  Ditch the tak as soon as you can, get glass.

- Go with the best resolution you can accord.  You can easily print into lower resolutions if you need to modify it, but it's also nice to print at fine resolution for excellent finish work.  I'd at least go 100 microns, even smaller if you can.

For less than $300 though you can have a decent sized printer, some PLA to print with, and since google sketchup and cura are free, have software to start cranking stuff out onto your little factory.  

As a big advocate for personal hobby printers I just want to +1 this and offer some 3DP advice.  3D printers do not work perfectly out of the box no matter how much money you spend on them.  You have to be a tinkerer, at least a little bit.  I'd suggest picking up something like a Creality CR-10, one of the most capable hobby printers out there for the money.  You will be hard pressed to out grow that quickly and it comes mostly assembled out of the box.

Sorry for the threadjack corsepervita, back to 3d printing Lambo parts.

Doesn't bother me at all, love this kind of stuff.  I agree with you.  I think all printers are gonna be "DIY" to an extent.  Something breaks? Well you can replace it with about 1 bajillion alternatives.  Need to calibrate it? Well there's a bunch of solutions.  Nozzles? Options a plenty.

You're basically building your own robot that poops plastic.

I still think it's easier to start somewhere in a position where a printer is mostly already assembled and ready.  Mine was assemble frame, put wire connectors in labeled spots, connect this here, connect that there... and in about 20 minutes i was up and leveling the bed to get it going.

I've read of some people who have to go buy parts for a frame.  Go buy motors, assemble stuff, program the damn thing, etc.  There's even solutions out there to buy the core of the printer where you'll setup the extruder and motors etc, but have to go buy literally everything so you can make your own custom everything (bed size, height, width, etc).

I guess it depends on how complex one wants to get.

conesare2seconds
conesare2seconds Dork
8/14/18 10:15 p.m.

“...go back to printing Lambo parts.”

Says it all, doesn’t it?  I love this forum. 

Jerry From LA
Jerry From LA SuperDork
8/15/18 1:09 p.m.
corsepervita said:

I would cry if it got sucked into a cylinder lol.

So would we.

RevRico
RevRico UberDork
8/15/18 1:25 p.m.
corsepervita said:
Ram50Ron said:

In reply to corsepervita :

I print on glass or a mirror with glue stick for bed adhesion after having the same problem with every single build pad on the market I settled right back were I started.  Get comfortable with PLA but be prepared to have some growing pains when you step up to ABS and PETG.

I read that hairspray made things easy, so I sprayed a light mist on it and it so far has stuck like glue.  My understanding on PETG (Have some, never used it), is that it requires a larger nozzle clearance and the bed needs to be set back up to a larger distance.  

I've got the distance pretty well down pat with my feeler gauges when it comes to making sure distance is right on.

I was going to go with a glass bed, but haven't upgraded yet. Hair spray was hit and miss, blue tape and glue stick worked but needed constant replacement. Then I discovered PEI sheets on Amazon. They're almost like a shark skin texture, and the adhesion is amazing. When it starts acting up a quick wipe with 1000 grit and alcohol, and it's like new again. 

 

corsepervita
corsepervita HalfDork
8/15/18 2:26 p.m.
RevRico said:
corsepervita said:
Ram50Ron said:

In reply to corsepervita :

I print on glass or a mirror with glue stick for bed adhesion after having the same problem with every single build pad on the market I settled right back were I started.  Get comfortable with PLA but be prepared to have some growing pains when you step up to ABS and PETG.

I read that hairspray made things easy, so I sprayed a light mist on it and it so far has stuck like glue.  My understanding on PETG (Have some, never used it), is that it requires a larger nozzle clearance and the bed needs to be set back up to a larger distance.  

I've got the distance pretty well down pat with my feeler gauges when it comes to making sure distance is right on.

I was going to go with a glass bed, but haven't upgraded yet. Hair spray was hit and miss, blue tape and glue stick worked but needed constant replacement. Then I discovered PEI sheets on Amazon. They're almost like a shark skin texture, and the adhesion is amazing. When it starts acting up a quick wipe with 1000 grit and alcohol, and it's like new again. 

 

yeah, that's the stuff that warped on me, the buildtak, it is disposable and only lasts so long.  but once it warps it's nearly useless.  3 sheets are about $40 last I looked.  The glass and heat transfer material cost me about $30.  The adhesion on build tak is really really good.  Sometimes so good it was hard to get objects off of it.  

But glass on the other hand peels off and leaves a mirror finish on it, comes off with ease but still adheres.  I barely have to lift an edge and then i can slowly just peel the object off the glass.  So far I love it.

FunkyCricket
FunkyCricket New Reader
8/20/18 2:21 p.m.

took me a week inbetween things at work, but I just read this whole thread....

I have no words. That you even attempted it is amazing, that you succeeded even more so. That engine.. wow. 

Keep us updated! I want details on interior and how it's driving. What tires did you go with? Did the bent a-arm ever get fixed? etc.

wheelsmithy
wheelsmithy SuperDork
9/12/18 8:54 p.m.

Useless bit of knowledge: In Rocky 4, Sly had a Jalpa

 

crankwalk
crankwalk SuperDork
9/13/18 11:57 a.m.

And a Countach  and Adidas tracksuit and an honest to God robot. The 1980's in one picture.

Trans_Maro
Trans_Maro PowerDork
9/13/18 1:01 p.m.

I thought only fat guys who never go to the gym wear track suits...

OHSCrifle
OHSCrifle Dork
11/3/18 4:06 p.m.

I saw this car’s bastard grandkid today

It sounded filthy

mr2s2000elise
mr2s2000elise New Reader
11/3/18 5:25 p.m.

 

 

I saw saw one last night 

4cylndrfury
4cylndrfury MegaDork
1/4/19 9:43 a.m.

Any updates? Hope the new year is treating the Jalpa well...and its owner wink

 

And, in case you wanted to move on from PLA, Id be happy to cast those horns and the sections for the airbox in Aluminum for you. Seriously. For free. Youd need to print me some parts 2% oversized to use as patterns (liquid aluminum shrinks approx 2% inward when it solidifies).

butlerbmx at yahoo dot com

corsepervita
corsepervita HalfDork
4/16/19 11:46 p.m.

Hey everyone.  I'm not gone.  Work has just sucked my time.  @4cyl fury i may take you up on that offer.  That would be really cool to get them made out of aluminum.  So far they're doing the job fine.  Jalpa is currently down to fix random things I found while driving it that need to be resolved.

Quick update:

- I'm on airbox iteration #4.  I think though this time will be the last iteration.

- need to resolve an issue i'm having with the transmission/clutch.  Namely that I forgot to put the locking nuts on the damn throwout guide so it's wiggling free.  Not a big deal, just need to slide the transmission out, fix it, regap clutch.  Just been cold as balls outside and had zero motivation over the winter to go work on it.

- Still working on the gps system, which I now have moved from arduino to raspberry pi.  Logging is working fantastic and has been tested in my 931, going to move the speedo portion though over to a hall sensor due to stuff like tunnels and gps lock, and use the gps logging for datalogging.

- Had some sensor issues with temp, now fixed, and bleeding issues with coolant, now fixed.

- Still having fan issues for cooling which i'm working on resolving, hoping the radiator isn't clogged and it was just old E36 M3ty fan speeds, the old fans didn't feel great when i took them out.  New fans to be installed.

- Still dialing in street tune, which is hard to do when it's trying to overheat, so it's been down all winter.

- Had a gas tank vent issue, which has been resolved by repiping the tubing due to the old charcoal boxes being clogged.

- Finally fixed the exhaust mounts, trying to come up with an idea for something closer to a sprung mount that'll allow a tiny bit of flex, but solid seems fine so far.

- Have a sagging issue up front which I'm thinking is a blown strut.  Once in a blue moon it rubs on the passenger side and it is visibly lower than the other side.  Suspension and frame is perfectly fine from what i can see, so it's odd that it's doing that.  Going to take it in for an alignment and get a second opinion.

- Noticing that the rear driver side control arm has a tiny bend.  I replaced the bushings and when I went to do so, noticed it was a bit of an ass to get installed.  Oddly enough it mounts up with a little extra effort, but looks like previous owner at some point in time must have got some road debris so probably going to just get a new control arm since I'm not sure how it'll affect alignment.  Seems to drive straight just fine after doing an eyeball alignment with some jacks and string and plates, but still, want to be dead on accurate.

GCrites80s
GCrites80s Reader
4/18/19 8:11 p.m.

That bent control arm could be binding which could be causing your right side list. Hard to tell without being there.

Man, doesn't it suck when you want to tune but temperature conditions either outside or of the engine push it back? I want to finish the tune on one of my cars badly but I need a lift to change the fan switch first since the fan comes on way too early. Can't do it on jackstands.

corsepervita
corsepervita HalfDork
8/6/19 11:29 p.m.

Couple updates.

I've been busy with work and not had a ton of time.  However, my friend has offered to let me use his lift, so I'm moving the car to his garage for a weekend or two to address the clutch and control arm.

I've also been busy printing parts.  The marker lights were pretty haggard on the car.  One was busted, the other is in crappy shape and breaking.  I also could not find any replacement LED that was a good fit, and wanted them dimmable.  So I made an arduino module for that that'll tie into the car wiring to dim them so they aren't overpowered in being bright.  I also am printing new marker lights.

This is prototype #1.  As you can see, there was a ton of adhesive on it that caused it to have imperfections on the surface layer.  It's printed in transparent PETG at 245/85 at 15% infill.

I tried wetsanding and polishing and it turned out looking fantastic aside from the surface imperfections.  I'm currently using a super thin layer of adhesive and reprinting it.

The back allows me to mate an adapter for the LEDs that will fit them to the same depth as stock.  I also ordered some TPU so I can print some soft urethane gaskets that should last the lifetime of the car.  Beats nearly $100 a pop for factory stuff that's old and not what I'm after anyway.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/H3KWgJC.jpg[/img]

Fitment is perfect.

 

Our Preferred Partners
ShAGT1MfTt2eQA8EgWeFGQzpsdhNJSKMwGlVgSPZmUoMcPZzYlGB7VTvgYPfTt0z