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84FSP
84FSP SuperDork
7/31/18 10:03 p.m.

Yep C vs F issue.  If it works it works.  Boxed up it might be fine.  There are some high temp versions that get to ~110c hdt but not sure if they are readily available.

 

PA6 or PA66 would be much preferred but not sure what kind of printer upgrades would be necessary to melt roughly double the hdt.

corsepervita
corsepervita HalfDork
7/31/18 10:26 p.m.

In reply to Matthew Kennedy :

it's not, i installed my own instance of gitlab on one of my linux servers at home and keep all my code on that machine for backup.  i guess i could toss it up on github.

corsepervita
corsepervita HalfDork
7/31/18 10:28 p.m.
T.J. said:

In reply to corsepervita :

Sounds like a plan. I thought PLA started getting soft at 140F or so, but if it works, it works.  If the plastic got soft and gooey from the heat it would suck if some part of it ended up in a cylinder.

I love that you designed and printed your own velocity stacks. Well done!

I was a bit concerned myself which is why i decided to try a few of them on my car and run them around for a good bit of morning before I decided to permanently switch out all the stacks first.  So far have had no problems, shape retained perfectly.  Then again that hood is pretty well ventilated so it doesn't trap a ton of heat.  

I would cry if it got sucked into a cylinder lol.

corsepervita
corsepervita HalfDork
8/14/18 12:34 a.m.

Well guys, I had a booboo with the 3d printer.  The bed warped due to a clog and it was on while I was gone.  I thought, "no problem i'll clear it." started again, came back, same.  Warped it worse.  Ended up being that the tak material used to print on had swollen up and the nozzle was getting stuck into it and made it warp way way way worse.

While the stuff is disposable, I couldn't find my extra sheets.  I had read that printing on glass is basically THE way to go longterm so I said screw it, bought some, along with some heat transfer material and matting and put it down.

Calibrated with differences based on the good spots of the previous material using some feeler gauges and within 15 minutes was back in business.  Now using some hatchbox PLA and the stuff is so insanely dimensionally accurate, with lower printing temps the stuff sticks like glue and oh my god is it precise.

 

I'll get better pics tomorrow when piece #1 is finished, lighting is too dark and printer moving too fast for crisp pics but WOW.  I will never go back to a normal heating bed.

Ram50Ron
Ram50Ron Reader
8/14/18 8:57 a.m.

In reply to corsepervita :

I print on glass or a mirror with glue stick for bed adhesion after having the same problem with every single build pad on the market I settled right back were I started.  Get comfortable with PLA but be prepared to have some growing pains when you step up to ABS and PETG.

corsepervita
corsepervita HalfDork
8/14/18 10:34 a.m.
Ram50Ron said:

In reply to corsepervita :

I print on glass or a mirror with glue stick for bed adhesion after having the same problem with every single build pad on the market I settled right back were I started.  Get comfortable with PLA but be prepared to have some growing pains when you step up to ABS and PETG.

I read that hairspray made things easy, so I sprayed a light mist on it and it so far has stuck like glue.  My understanding on PETG (Have some, never used it), is that it requires a larger nozzle clearance and the bed needs to be set back up to a larger distance.  

I've got the distance pretty well down pat with my feeler gauges when it comes to making sure distance is right on.

corsepervita
corsepervita HalfDork
8/14/18 10:45 a.m.

Progress overnight

Norma66
Norma66 Reader
8/14/18 3:33 p.m.

God i need a 3d printer

corsepervita
corsepervita HalfDork
8/14/18 4:01 p.m.
Norma66 said:

God i need a 3d printer

At this point, I don't think I'd go back to a normal bed, and some of the upgrades make life easier.

I got this printer for like $250, open box special on monoprice.  Since then the additions I've made have been a few tiny mods + glass bed which have cost me a grand total of $40 extra dollars.  There's also fan mods you can print (print your own mods).  

I definitely would do the following:

- Buy the best printer you can in terms of not being something oddly open source unless you LOVE diy stuff.  Find a printer that has reviews and already comes /mostly/ ready out of the box.

- Get the largest print bed you can afford.  No matter how big it is, you will outgrow it, fast.

- Honestly had I known how badass printing on glass is, I would have done it much sooner.  Ditch the tak as soon as you can, get glass.

- Go with the best resolution you can accord.  You can easily print into lower resolutions if you need to modify it, but it's also nice to print at fine resolution for excellent finish work.  I'd at least go 100 microns, even smaller if you can.

For less than $300 though you can have a decent sized printer, some PLA to print with, and since google sketchup and cura are free, have software to start cranking stuff out onto your little factory.  

Ram50Ron
Ram50Ron Reader
8/14/18 4:43 p.m.
corsepervita said:
Norma66 said:

God i need a 3d printer

At this point, I don't think I'd go back to a normal bed, and some of the upgrades make life easier.

I got this printer for like $250, open box special on monoprice.  Since then the additions I've made have been a few tiny mods + glass bed which have cost me a grand total of $40 extra dollars.  There's also fan mods you can print (print your own mods).  

I definitely would do the following:

- Buy the best printer you can in terms of not being something oddly open source unless you LOVE diy stuff.  Find a printer that has reviews and already comes /mostly/ ready out of the box.

- Get the largest print bed you can afford.  No matter how big it is, you will outgrow it, fast.

- Honestly had I known how badass printing on glass is, I would have done it much sooner.  Ditch the tak as soon as you can, get glass.

- Go with the best resolution you can accord.  You can easily print into lower resolutions if you need to modify it, but it's also nice to print at fine resolution for excellent finish work.  I'd at least go 100 microns, even smaller if you can.

For less than $300 though you can have a decent sized printer, some PLA to print with, and since google sketchup and cura are free, have software to start cranking stuff out onto your little factory.  

As a big advocate for personal hobby printers I just want to +1 this and offer some 3DP advice.  3D printers do not work perfectly out of the box no matter how much money you spend on them.  You have to be a tinkerer, at least a little bit.  I'd suggest picking up something like a Creality CR-10, one of the most capable hobby printers out there for the money.  You will be hard pressed to out grow that quickly and it comes mostly assembled out of the box.

Sorry for the threadjack corsepervita, back to 3d printing Lambo parts.

corsepervita
corsepervita HalfDork
8/14/18 6:33 p.m.
Ram50Ron said:
corsepervita said:
Norma66 said:

God i need a 3d printer

At this point, I don't think I'd go back to a normal bed, and some of the upgrades make life easier.

I got this printer for like $250, open box special on monoprice.  Since then the additions I've made have been a few tiny mods + glass bed which have cost me a grand total of $40 extra dollars.  There's also fan mods you can print (print your own mods).  

I definitely would do the following:

- Buy the best printer you can in terms of not being something oddly open source unless you LOVE diy stuff.  Find a printer that has reviews and already comes /mostly/ ready out of the box.

- Get the largest print bed you can afford.  No matter how big it is, you will outgrow it, fast.

- Honestly had I known how badass printing on glass is, I would have done it much sooner.  Ditch the tak as soon as you can, get glass.

- Go with the best resolution you can accord.  You can easily print into lower resolutions if you need to modify it, but it's also nice to print at fine resolution for excellent finish work.  I'd at least go 100 microns, even smaller if you can.

For less than $300 though you can have a decent sized printer, some PLA to print with, and since google sketchup and cura are free, have software to start cranking stuff out onto your little factory.  

As a big advocate for personal hobby printers I just want to +1 this and offer some 3DP advice.  3D printers do not work perfectly out of the box no matter how much money you spend on them.  You have to be a tinkerer, at least a little bit.  I'd suggest picking up something like a Creality CR-10, one of the most capable hobby printers out there for the money.  You will be hard pressed to out grow that quickly and it comes mostly assembled out of the box.

Sorry for the threadjack corsepervita, back to 3d printing Lambo parts.

Doesn't bother me at all, love this kind of stuff.  I agree with you.  I think all printers are gonna be "DIY" to an extent.  Something breaks? Well you can replace it with about 1 bajillion alternatives.  Need to calibrate it? Well there's a bunch of solutions.  Nozzles? Options a plenty.

You're basically building your own robot that poops plastic.

I still think it's easier to start somewhere in a position where a printer is mostly already assembled and ready.  Mine was assemble frame, put wire connectors in labeled spots, connect this here, connect that there... and in about 20 minutes i was up and leveling the bed to get it going.

I've read of some people who have to go buy parts for a frame.  Go buy motors, assemble stuff, program the damn thing, etc.  There's even solutions out there to buy the core of the printer where you'll setup the extruder and motors etc, but have to go buy literally everything so you can make your own custom everything (bed size, height, width, etc).

I guess it depends on how complex one wants to get.

conesare2seconds
conesare2seconds Dork
8/14/18 10:15 p.m.

“...go back to printing Lambo parts.”

Says it all, doesn’t it?  I love this forum. 

Jerry From LA
Jerry From LA SuperDork
8/15/18 1:09 p.m.
corsepervita said:

I would cry if it got sucked into a cylinder lol.

So would we.

RevRico
RevRico UberDork
8/15/18 1:25 p.m.
corsepervita said:
Ram50Ron said:

In reply to corsepervita :

I print on glass or a mirror with glue stick for bed adhesion after having the same problem with every single build pad on the market I settled right back were I started.  Get comfortable with PLA but be prepared to have some growing pains when you step up to ABS and PETG.

I read that hairspray made things easy, so I sprayed a light mist on it and it so far has stuck like glue.  My understanding on PETG (Have some, never used it), is that it requires a larger nozzle clearance and the bed needs to be set back up to a larger distance.  

I've got the distance pretty well down pat with my feeler gauges when it comes to making sure distance is right on.

I was going to go with a glass bed, but haven't upgraded yet. Hair spray was hit and miss, blue tape and glue stick worked but needed constant replacement. Then I discovered PEI sheets on Amazon. They're almost like a shark skin texture, and the adhesion is amazing. When it starts acting up a quick wipe with 1000 grit and alcohol, and it's like new again. 

 

corsepervita
corsepervita HalfDork
8/15/18 2:26 p.m.
RevRico said:
corsepervita said:
Ram50Ron said:

In reply to corsepervita :

I print on glass or a mirror with glue stick for bed adhesion after having the same problem with every single build pad on the market I settled right back were I started.  Get comfortable with PLA but be prepared to have some growing pains when you step up to ABS and PETG.

I read that hairspray made things easy, so I sprayed a light mist on it and it so far has stuck like glue.  My understanding on PETG (Have some, never used it), is that it requires a larger nozzle clearance and the bed needs to be set back up to a larger distance.  

I've got the distance pretty well down pat with my feeler gauges when it comes to making sure distance is right on.

I was going to go with a glass bed, but haven't upgraded yet. Hair spray was hit and miss, blue tape and glue stick worked but needed constant replacement. Then I discovered PEI sheets on Amazon. They're almost like a shark skin texture, and the adhesion is amazing. When it starts acting up a quick wipe with 1000 grit and alcohol, and it's like new again. 

 

yeah, that's the stuff that warped on me, the buildtak, it is disposable and only lasts so long.  but once it warps it's nearly useless.  3 sheets are about $40 last I looked.  The glass and heat transfer material cost me about $30.  The adhesion on build tak is really really good.  Sometimes so good it was hard to get objects off of it.  

But glass on the other hand peels off and leaves a mirror finish on it, comes off with ease but still adheres.  I barely have to lift an edge and then i can slowly just peel the object off the glass.  So far I love it.

FunkyCricket
FunkyCricket New Reader
8/20/18 2:21 p.m.

took me a week inbetween things at work, but I just read this whole thread....

I have no words. That you even attempted it is amazing, that you succeeded even more so. That engine.. wow. 

Keep us updated! I want details on interior and how it's driving. What tires did you go with? Did the bent a-arm ever get fixed? etc.

wheelsmithy
wheelsmithy SuperDork
9/12/18 8:54 p.m.

Useless bit of knowledge: In Rocky 4, Sly had a Jalpa

 

crankwalk
crankwalk SuperDork
9/13/18 11:57 a.m.

And a Countach  and Adidas tracksuit and an honest to God robot. The 1980's in one picture.

Trans_Maro
Trans_Maro PowerDork
9/13/18 1:01 p.m.

I thought only fat guys who never go to the gym wear track suits...

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