sleepyhead the buffalo
sleepyhead the buffalo PowerDork
2/26/24 10:15 p.m.
Gzwg said:

One more thing that goes through my Head:

Your Windscreen is quite upright. How much disturbed air does it create, and is it maybe worse enough that it does not really matter what you do at the back of the car?

Would some kind of small deflector before the screen help with that?

nocones and I tossed around ideas about that offline.  lots of ideas.  it's hard to quantify the benefit of those, and lots of the possible options are going to be incredibly difficult to make a reality... and all of them will almost certainly ruin the way the car lives up to the original concept (which, afaik, didn't have a rear bodywork).  talking it over, it seemed like the best "bang for the buck" was in addressing things in the back.

in reply to 2GRX7:

afaik, the rear foil is just set there with whatever stand nocones had kicking around.  I don't expect it will be that low (it was higher up originally), and while the low pressure from that foil will certainly pull flow up, I think we'll be able to ensure it doesn't impinge the flow into the back of the rear foil (there's a chance their chord is going to shrink in the gen2 rear setup too).

in reply to Purple Frog:

I'd have to go back and look through the thread.  I'm pretty sure neither stafford, nor I, recommended an angle exceeding 15deg.  I think part of the reason it looks "bigger than expected", is because of how far forward nocones is able to start the expansion, and also how far back (especially compared to recent LMP car rules) he's extended the tunnels?

nocones
nocones PowerDork
2/27/24 10:38 a.m.

Singleslammer and Robbie came over this weekend and we had a build day on the LMP360.   I didn't take many pictures because mostly we took the engine out and got started wiring the Haltech.  

There has been a large number of hours to cut apart the stock harness, identify and sort out things.  A few connections have been made and I'm working on the planning for the rest of the connections.  

Big thanks for the help to get me over the hump to get started on the motor wiring.  I have been hesitant because it is new but they pressured me to get it going and I appreciate it.  

GameboyRMH
GameboyRMH MegaDork
2/27/24 10:29 p.m.

Digging the aero changes. If you want to do some cheap CFD maybe check out OpenFOAM which you can self-host for free (I can help with this if you like and I have some powerful computers):

 

stafford1500
stafford1500 Dork
2/28/24 8:47 a.m.

OpenFOAM is the right answer for inexpensive CFD results, but still requires a complete model and a fairly in depth knowledge of which simulation parameters to use/tune. I have it running on one of my machines. It is not the scale of the clusters I have at work, but it does the job for small/simple cases. If you get to the point that you want some ideas of what you have AND have the time/effort to model it up let me know.

By the way OpenFOAM is a massively powerful tool for simulation, including everything from fluids to thermal to radiation to combustion. I only use a small fraction of its capabilities, but I know some stronger users when I have questions. It is also very code/text heavy to make it work. Every aspect is run by tuning several files and lots of command line interaction.

Purple Frog (Forum Supporter)
Purple Frog (Forum Supporter) Dork
2/28/24 11:20 a.m.

Your left glove will need a web between the thumb and index finger so you can hold it up against the window opening on the straights during qualifying.    wink

nocones
nocones PowerDork
4/30/24 8:49 p.m.

Okay..  it's been a while again.  My camper had unknown longterm leak that I had to address by disassembling the entire overcab bunk area, the Willy's truck blew all its fluids all over the highway, and I impulse bought a Sambar Kei truck.  But Let's bring things up to speed on the LMP360.  

Haltech install continued.  I didn't keep things up to date because well I didn't work that quickly and taking pictures of crimping wires over and over isn't very interesting. 

I modified the TGVs to remove the TGV.  Subaru installed some butterflies that cover half the intakes and open electronically with throttle and load.  The Haltech could manage them but they don't do anything really and "rob power".  You can't just remove the plates but all the solenoids and sensors (that happen to be exactly 2 more TPS sensors) because they seal the shafts.  So I pulled the shafts and tapped the holes for some plugs.  The tap didn't go all the way through so the plug cannot go into the engine.  

You then get to cut out a divider from the middle.  I used one of those hardened mill bit things in a Dremel after cutting it with a sawzall.  It's not perfect but it's smooth enough.

You used to be able to get these CNC machines pretty reasonably, but they tend to no longer be available due to the same forces reducing the availability of other similar off highway modifications.  

 

nocones
nocones PowerDork
4/30/24 8:58 p.m.

I continued to wire.  I decided to do a hybrid merger harness.  Many connectors are brand new and a few are reused.  New ones came from iWire which I recommend for Subaru connectors.  Super easy to deal with and quick shipping.   No sponsor or anything just impressed with their work.  

So once the wires were terminated on the engine I removed the harness and pulled out everything I am not using.  I left it pinned and just wound it up for now.  After a few events I will consider depinning and removing what I'm not using but I don't know what I may add.  

I had been unsure what to do about gauges.  The Haltech and any aftermarket ECU is amazing but it's kinda where engine data goes to die.  You have all this data but it's not easy to access.  You can pulse out a tach, but since most other gauges you care about are 0-5V you have to start doing things like trying to PWM an output to simulate a voltage.  Or .  .  You run a digital dash.   I didn't really want to spend the nearly $1k for a digital dash but I also didn't want to run entirely separate senders for everything and by the time you buy decent electric gauges and senders for just Oil pressure, coolant temp, Tach and put together an LED panel for warning lights your into it for $500-600 easy.   I researched non Haltech solutions but in the end they had a 15% off sale and I just paid the man for a iC7.  It runs natively on the Nexus Can network and gives way more information then I will ever need.  

While in a spendy place I also got some FIC 1000cc injectors.  I'm not immediately planning to need them but E85 may be in the future and the flow rate ceiling room will be nice to have.  

nocones
nocones PowerDork
4/30/24 9:08 p.m.

I also needed to address the power supply to the Nexus.  Haltech wants a 4AWG feed dedicated to the Nexus for both power and ground from the battery.   I tried to figure out different ways to wire it.  It was difficult to figure out how to use a battery cutoff that didn't have any hot legs running and still cut the alternator.  I was working under the paradigm of the OEM ECU where the starter load was in series with the ECU and other car loads.   I realized the Haltech didn't need that so I compromised a bit, and again ended up having to spend some money to solve the problem.  

Forgive the crudeness, but I ended up buying a 4 post 2 175 amp circuit cutoff switch.   One leg provides power to the starter, start button/solenoid, and carries the alternator charge feed.  When the cutoff is switched there is nothing in the system that is likely to be damaged by the alternator current.  The other leg feeds a small fuse panel in the cabin, a small panel in the firewall, and the Haltech behind a 80amp busman breaker.  I ended up buying a harbor freight hydraulic crimper for making all these battery cables and was pleased with it.  For $50 it was worth it.  

Everything installed ready for the engine.  

I then got to do my least favorite automotive activity, installing a transmission input shaft into a clutch with a tight pilot bearing.  It was made even more intimidating by the WRX "Pull" style clutch.   Shockingly..  it went right in.  Like 5 minutes..  bolted in.. 

nocones
nocones PowerDork
4/30/24 9:18 p.m.

Then finally it was time to reinstall the engine to the subframe and rejoin the halfs of the car.  I'm VERY glad I thought ahead to make this serviceable.  There are a few fidly bits but overall it takes about 45 minutes to get the engine out or in.  

It was finally..  FINALLY time to find out if all my efforts worked.  

I cobbled together the ignition and starter switch played with a few settings on the Haltech and..  it started..  sort of.  

I was getting all kinds of home sync and other errors and it was clearly misfiring and wouldn't idle.  

I will admit I was pretty well deflated.  This has been a HUGE stretch for me in both expense and comfort and I was thinking the worst.  

But singleslammer said call Haltech they have amazing tech support and he was absolutely right.  Like I inherently knew I was the thing standing between me and good running but it still was an emotional rollercoaster.   This morning though I spent about 45 minutes on live support (which happens seamlessly though the software) and they did some Wizard stuff and this happened.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Daniel C (@noconesgarage)

 

Haltech wants me to call back once the coolant system and charge piping is hooked up (I mean built) so it can run for longer while they fiddle but..  it runs!   And it's gonna be rowdy.  

Piguin
Piguin Reader
4/30/24 9:32 p.m.

That does sound goooooooood

sleepyhead the buffalo
sleepyhead the buffalo PowerDork
4/30/24 9:58 p.m.

congrats!

golfduke
golfduke Dork
5/1/24 8:00 a.m.

Sounds awesome!  I love when this thread bumps up to the top :)

 

fouckhest
fouckhest Reader
5/1/24 9:46 a.m.

Awesome work!

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter)
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
5/1/24 10:34 a.m.

In reply to nocones :

Serviceable and Rowdy are a perfect pairing. Congratulations!

preach
preach UltraDork
5/1/24 11:09 a.m.

RAWR!

nocones
nocones PowerDork
5/29/24 3:29 p.m.

Well… Cock..

 

Things have gone very sideways.

 

Lets back up a bit.  Okay so when I last updated.. I had just got the car running. 

A cooling crossover pipe was fabricated out of the intended header primary tubes from the EJ253 NA/T build plan.  It cleared everything but because of obstructions limiting it’s length I needed to get more 1” diameter heater hose.   I could not find it at all intown so.. I had to order it an wait.  I thought for sure I had a picture of this but I did not.

I then started on the exhaust.  I bought a length of 3” tube and proceded to modify the downpipe that came with the engine.  Here are a few pictures of the production of this.  Again like with the chassis and many brackets before tape was used to make a template.  The exhaust is very basic just a simple dump up and out.  I installed a V-band for alternate tips, and ordered a 3” stainless “DC SPORTS” muffler so it would be quieter for running at home.

Here is the “final” exhaust with the big ridiculous muffler.   It’s hilarious I love it, sounds good also.

Cooling system tied up and muffler on it could idle.  So I did.   .  And it caught on fire (nearly) as oil leaked onto the header.  Bad cam seals.  They had been inserted all the way which on the AVCS cam gears means they won’t seal because they seal on the OD of the cam gear.   I had a dyno appointment Wednesday of that next week and it was Saturday.  No one had parts so I mashed the “2 day shipping” and hoped.  Amazingly the parts arrived about 30 hours after I ordered them.   And they were actually OEM ones as promised by the Jungle River. 

Time to Re-assemble right!  So I did.  Recognize I’ve never done a quad cam engine before.  I was very nervous about re-assembly.  I checked the timing marks about 37 times, put the timing set on, pulled the pin on the tensioner (literally Subarus the last thing you do on your newly assembled timing gear is pull a literal pin..  on the grenade you just built).   I barred the engine over and 2 rotations and still on time!  EXCELLENT.   And then I kept going..  and on like turn 8..  Twing..  and then.. CLANK..  uhoh..   I backed the engine up a tiny bit and then it was fine..  but every 2 rotations the intake cam would go.. clink and occasionally the engine would bang against something.  I was..   not happy.  Put it back to TDC, reset the belt about 4 times and everytime same result.  Did a leakdown check.  No issues.  WTF is going on?

So I found 2 things.  1 was me.  There is a flywheel inspection hole on the engine.  For some reason my IAT sensor and wiring fell down into the belhousing.  Every few rotations it would get stuck between the flywheel and the engine.  Causing it to lock up.  WOOHOO crisis 1 adverted.   But I still had a click in the intake cam.  The AVCS cam gears use a single small pin into an aluminum body to retain the cam.  The AVCS gear is steel and oil rotates it around this cam boss.  So the Cam boss stays stationary relative to the cam.  It is located using a small hole..  My hole was an oval.  This was Tuesday night.  Notification was made to the dyno people and I ordered another part 2 day shipping.  Again amazingly a brand new AVCS gear showed up 30 hours later.   I was finally able to do final assembly on the engine. 

Assembly was fine, engine rolled over no issues, no mor noises.  Engine back in car and then Top mount intercooler fabricated.  The dyno tuner was available Tuesday (yesterday) to do a tune so I targeted getting everything together.   I had a hell of a time bleeding the clutch and then figured out that I somehow used the wrong release fork.  I was able to mask this problem by making a longer clutch shaft and finally got the clutch working.

After some drama involving flight delays for the dyno owner I got onto the dyno.  We did baseline stuff, got a much better idle tune and starting tune on the car.  We did a few power pulls on wastegate only (6psi) and it was Awesome.  Spooled quick enough and made 236 WHP at 6 psi.  Honestly since that was literally 2X the HP the EJ253 had I was done.  The car was maintaining temperature, oil pressure looked good, no knock events, everything seemed excellent.  All of my intake piping stayed together.. overall very smooth.  Need to make some shifter adjustments but nothing ridiculous.    We were going to do 2 more pulls just to make sure the electronic boost controller worked.. but were not planning to push the engine more at all because I didn’t need the power and we were going to continue to mess with it from logs during GLMW.

On a back to back pull at 6psi at about 6K RPM the engine just lost power.  It was making a hell of a racket on coastdown and when I pushed in the clutch it just died.  After the dyno stopped we tried to crank it and it just went WRR-CLANK. 

Pulled the timing covers and the engine was in time so it hadn’t jumped time.  Waited about 45 minutes while unloading from the dyno and cooled the engine.  After about 45 minutes it started a little hard but idled fine, but on rev..  the classic boxer rumble..  I mean rod knock. 

Drained oil and was met with glitter fest. 

Looking at the logs it really doesn’t look like anything happened It registered knock but only AFTER I lifted throttle not before. 

The only theories we have are:

Parts failure or assembly error.  Bore clearance inadequate for forged pistons.  Stuck injector leading to hydrolock and washed down oil. 

The injectors are brand new FIC injectors so it seems unlikely that that was the cause. 

The engine was used, I got it for an excellent deal, and I harbor no ill will towards the PO.  Even if there was an issue with infant mortality of parts or an assembly error it happens.  I know there is no way they knew or suspected any issue, and the value was still good just as a pile of parts.  It kinda doesn’t matter anyway as the engine is blown up now and I only have a few days before GLMW. 

It really sucks because I now have a nice safe tune on my super expensive ECU that everything works on.  Except the actual engine it is strapped to.  It made good power and the most glorious noise before this happened.   I just don’t think there is anything I am willing to do before GLMW.

I COULD put the EJ253 back in the car with the OEM ECU.  This has it’s challenges, I have to run the outback trans because of a speedometer gear issue on the WRX trans, and the wiring although removed carefully would still have to be reinstalled in the car.  And this is a totally temporary solution just to turn laps in this car at Gingerman. 

I also could fix the 200K mile WRX bottom end in my garage.  It needs a head swap and I have parts.  The haltech would run it, the only sensor that would need resolved is it uses a different cam trigger since it is non-AVCS.  The 2.0L would workish with the turbo I have or I could just run the OEM WRX turbo.  But that is a lot of work to do solo in 3.5 days.

I could buy a JDM WRX engine from Chicago for ~$1500.  I still have the install labor and trigger change but the chances of that being a better engine then the one in my garage are high.  But I have to spend 6 hours going to get it and another $1500 is just..  like a lot right now given how much I have poured into this thing in the last 3 months. 

Long term planning on what to do I will discuss later.  Options include throwing bearings in the STI motor, Selling the STI specific parts and the Big turbo and buying a known good EJ205, or something else.  I have about 9 weeks before Gridlife Road America and would Really like the 200+WHP engine of some kind to be in it for that event. 

Its looking most likely that I will run Robbies 128i in TA Street at GLMW.  I can't run the MG in Time Attack because it needs a bunch of safety gear to run Time Attack Unlimited.  I really really wanted to have this car there.  I was So so close.   

All is not lost.. I know I got the hard part done of getting the Haltech wired and running with all supporting mods.  I am a DOHC EJXX engine away from greatness.  But right now that seems like a really far away goal...

 

maschinenbau
maschinenbau PowerDork
5/29/24 3:49 p.m.

Bummer :( 

bobzilla
bobzilla MegaDork
5/29/24 4:01 p.m.

Man... I've been in this position (just not in as cool a vehicle) and it really really really sucks. Mentally you are defeated, financially you're broken and physically you're beat. Dude... this sucks. 

Recon1342
Recon1342 UltraDork
5/29/24 4:42 p.m.

In reply to nocones :

Oof. That's rough, dude. 

Purple Frog
Purple Frog Dork
5/29/24 5:16 p.m.

Man i feel for you.

A good autopsy of that engine is in order so as not to repeat.

java230
java230 PowerDork
5/29/24 9:00 p.m.

Bugger!!

sleepyhead the buffalo
sleepyhead the buffalo PowerDork
5/29/24 11:04 p.m.

that sucks man.  this is the kind of thing that definitely feeds into some of my own complication around vehicle acquisition and thoughts about having two cars that can "jump on track in a pinch of needed".

preach
preach UltraDork
5/30/24 6:45 a.m.

Well, E36 M3.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UltimaDork
5/30/24 7:07 a.m.
nocones said:

It really sucks because I now have a nice safe tune on my super expensive ECU that everything works on.  Except the actual engine it is strapped to.

This is just the most Subaru thing ever to Subaru.

golfduke
golfduke Dork
5/30/24 9:05 a.m.

Sorry man, but remember that you've fabricated a banshee of a car.  An engine failure should never take away from that.  I'd fire the cannon one more time, because now you KNOW what 253hp as a low baseline sounds and looks like... you'll regret anything else slightly. 

 

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