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Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
11/8/20 6:23 p.m.
Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
11/15/20 8:48 a.m.

Worried about the seat belts if I remove that box, I just tried them with no battery in the car at all. Seem to still work, I guess I don't know how that box effects the seatbelts. 
 

 

bentwrench
bentwrench SuperDork
11/15/20 11:22 a.m.

There are small explosive charges that tighten the belts in a crash.

Normal belt operation is not affected.

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
11/15/20 5:32 p.m.

In reply to bentwrench :

Thanks. I didn't know that was a thing. 

TED_fiestaHP
TED_fiestaHP HalfDork
11/15/20 9:08 p.m.

I think BMW has a similar feature, there is also a battery disconnect feature.  Car will function without this feature.  Might want to be careful while working around this stuff, disconnect battery prior to working around this stuff, similar to working around air bags.

svxsti
svxsti Reader
11/15/20 9:16 p.m.

These cars are going to keep going up in value.

chandler
chandler UltimaDork
11/16/20 4:39 a.m.
TED_fiestaHP said:

I think BMW has a similar feature, there is also a battery disconnect feature.  Car will function without this feature.  Might want to be careful while working around this stuff, disconnect battery prior to working around this stuff, similar to working around air bags.

They also have one on the battery terminal in some BMWs, you are in an accident it pops and cuts power. 

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
11/17/20 2:33 p.m.

Made a cut. Located about where the transmission will need to be at. super high tech work using wood block to hold up wires so they didn't get caught in the blade. 

Also for my future reference this engine bracket should be level when engine is at its correct angle. 
 


 

 

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
11/26/20 9:32 a.m.

I had posted up a question on remote shifters because it looks like I am going to need one:

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/remote-shifter-for-challenge-build/178829/page1/#post3146592

 

the good news is I think I will have enough parts to make a remote shifter from the donor car Saab. 
 



 

I am not yet sure which end I will use :


but I am planning something like this 

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
11/26/20 9:38 a.m.

I also decided to go ahead and order a LNF oil pan. I think it should go right on, the only issue will be checking the oil as the dipstick will be wrong. So I may need a new dipstick or dipstick tube or both. 
 

here are a couple of pictures to show the difference in the pans. I am hoping that it will give me a lot more room over the subframe. 
 


 

especially if I can trim some of the fins out of the way. 


 



 

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
11/28/20 9:52 a.m.

Went back to the donor to look for something to use as bushings for the remote shifter. 
 

There were some on the arms that let the trunk move up and down. 
 


 

also a note to myself from buzzboy:

 

"Higher on the remote shifter relative to the transmission shortens shifter throws, lower lengthens shifter throws."

 

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
12/12/20 11:14 a.m.

I ended up cutting the subframe, little at a time but ending up cutting it quite a bit.  I tack welded a piece of 1/8" angle to support it before I started cutting. 
 


 

I must have had the engine in and out of the car about 100 times now. I think I have it figured out where it is going to go. 
 

how much room do you need to leave around the engine and the subframe?

I am thinking about reusing the Mercedes mounts or just making solid mounts and just keeping the rubber mount on the transmission. 
 

here are the Mercedes mounts 


 

here's how much room I think I will have, but I still need to reinforce the subframe from where I cut it, and then box it back in. 
 


 

I am going to remeasure once I make up the mounts but here is my best guess on what my driveshaft length may need to be 


53 1/4"

I still need to get a adapter or make one like this 

https://jagsthatrun.com/products/driveshaft-adaptor-flange

next up

1. Clearance the trans tunnel just a little more

2. Start on the motor mounts  

3 figure out driveshaft 

4. order remote oil cooler adapter 

 

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
12/24/20 12:01 p.m.

I have the engine and trans where it will probably end up just depending on driveshaft and pinion angle. 
 


 

Still have some trimming to do around the thermostat housing and turbo line. 
 

should have enough room for turbo and air intake tube. Not sure about how I am going to route exhaust or the tube that goes to intercooler yet. 
 


 

some pictures of the start of the motor mounts. 
 


 

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
12/24/20 1:23 p.m.

I am going to put this stuff here as well so I can find it when I am setting up cooling hoses. 
 

measurements of all Saab hoses in mm


 

the routing I think I am going to need 


 

direction of flow

obsolete
obsolete New Reader
12/24/20 2:04 p.m.

Solstice upper radiator hose looks like it would be pretty close to working for you: 

Are you keeping the Saab thermostat housing?

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
12/24/20 5:54 p.m.

In reply to obsolete :

Thanks! That does look about right. 
 

at this point yes keeping Saab thermostat housing, unless someone has a better suggestion? 
 

I am going to have to do some sheet metal trimming anyways for that turbo banjo bolt, to be able to get the bolt out and in anyway. 

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
12/26/20 8:51 p.m.

While waiting to get a driveshaft and figure out my Pinion offset setup

I saw this Desktop cnc thread so I downloaded fusion 360 and started to play around a little bit to try to make my own drive shaft adapter. 
 

I am starting by measuring the stock Mercedes flexible "thing" 


 

Glad my daughters hello kitty ruler has millimeters on it. 
 

It took me way too long to come up with this but it should be my base for a driveshaft adapter. I am going to look at the junkyard for something I can use on the driveshaft side. 
This is the side that fits on the three prong thing on the Mercedes diff. 


therealpinto
therealpinto Reader
12/27/20 3:05 a.m.

The "guibo" or rubber donut is pretty much standardized at a 90 mm PCD. 

I bought the adapter here;

https://www.l-m-r.se/p/universal/a-traktor/medbringar-hardyadapter-volvo-740-940-kardan-till-m40-lada.html

Might give an idea for a design if you want to have someone make one.

Gustaf

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
12/27/20 6:02 a.m.

In reply to therealpinto :

 

Thanks that is the first of that style I have seen. Good reference.

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
1/2/21 8:19 p.m.

Had some fun at the junkyard today. 
 

Had my first u pull experience today. All you could fit in a wagon for $100. Next time I just won't go in the winter. But what a fun way to spend a morning. 
 


That Saturn wagon looked mint. 
 



this rx7 was stripped. But must have been an electric car conversion at one point. 


Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
1/2/21 8:21 p.m.

Preliminary challenge math

Cherry's 1/2/2020

 

$100

Carry all

 
         

Number

Part

FMV

% of total fmv

Challenge Cost

1

S2000 steering wheel

$200

22%

$ 22.27

2

99-00 civic si ecu

$100

11%

$ 11.14

3

92-95 civic center console plastics

$80

9%

$ 8.91

4

Firebird Driveshaft and Yoke

$50

6%

$ 5.57

5

Astro Driveshaft and yoke

$50

6%

$ 5.57

6

Datsun hood vents

$50

6%

$ 5.57

7

2.4 eco throttle body and plug

$30

3%

$ 3.34

8

2.4 eco throttle body and plug

$30

3%

$ 3.34

9

2.4 eco throttle body and plug

$30

3%

$ 3.34

10

eco drive by wire pedal

$30

3%

$ 3.34

11

eco drive by wire pedal

$30

3%

$ 3.34

12

eco drive by wire pedal

$30

3%

$ 3.34

13

Volvo electric vacuum pump

$30

3%

$ 3.34

14

Volvo electric vacuum pump

$30

3%

$ 3.34

15

Blazer Fuse box

$15

2%

$ 1.67

16

civic rear strut tower brace

$15

2%

$ 1.67

17

92 civic dimmer switch

$15

2%

$ 1.67

18

eco maf

$10

1%

$ 1.11

19

eco maf

$10

1%

$ 1.11

20

eco maf

$10

1%

$ 1.11

21

Unknown strut tower brace

$10

1%

$ 1.11

22

Saab Spark plug cover

$10

1%

$ 1.11

23

Eco coils x4

$10

1%

$ 1.11

24

Northstar engine cover

$5

1%

$ 0.56

25

Metal color intake tube with coupler

$5

1%

$ 0.56

26

Metal color intake tube with coupler

$5

1%

$ 0.56

27

Rabbit 5 speed shift knob

$5

1%

$ 0.56

28

plastic intake tube x2

$1

0%

$ 0.11

29

Toyota rubber shift knob

$1

0%

$ 0.11

30

misc exhaust and radiator tube

$1

0%

$ 0.11

 

Totals

$898

100%

$ 100.00

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Reader
1/2/21 8:22 p.m.

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) HalfDork
1/22/21 4:10 p.m.

Finished cutting the motor mounts out, and made the transmission Mount. I am waiting to weld them up until a buddy can come and help me. 
 


 

I took the engine out yet again and when I bought the car from the salvage auction there was a brand new blower motor in a box in the backseat. So I figured empty engine bay is the perfect time to install. 
Old:


 

New:


 

Also started to reinforce the subframe where I cut it.  Similar to dusterbd I am going to use square tube to cover as much as possible, planning to drill some holes in the bottom of the subframe to weld the square tube in. 
 

then will use 1/8" plate over top to finish it off. 
 

here is the start. Still have another 2 pieces of square tube to cut and all the plate to cut. 

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) HalfDork
2/28/21 12:40 p.m.

Got all my 1/8" wall tube cut and mocked up. to reinforce the cut I made to the subframe. 
 


 

planning on plating over it all after it is welded up, for a finished look. 
 


 

also clearanced for the banjo bolt for the turbo coolant line. 
 



 

 

I saw the pictures and went"hey, thats how i did it!" Then i read i was the inspiration. 

Glad i could help. There's probably stronger and lighter ways of doing it, but good enough is good enough. 

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