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java230
java230 Dork
1/11/17 11:41 a.m.
camaroz1985 wrote: What are you doing for a back seat in the truck, or will it just fold down to access the box?

Back seat was a 60/40 split, I am planning to use the 40 part on the passenger side. the crawl thru is offset to the drivers a little. And its more of a 75/25 split, the seat section I want to use is ~20" wide. That is if I can get them separated.... Looks do able though.

SyntheticBlinkerFluid
SyntheticBlinkerFluid UltimaDork
1/11/17 9:40 p.m.

What are you doing about stairs for the door?

java230
java230 Dork
1/12/17 10:10 a.m.

In reply to SyntheticBlinkerFluid:

Most likely camper steps for a slide in, like these

Im looking at this as well, but not sure it will work with the tire right there.

SyntheticBlinkerFluid
SyntheticBlinkerFluid UltimaDork
1/12/17 10:25 a.m.

In reply to java230:

Those steps should work well.

java230
java230 Dork
1/12/17 10:27 a.m.

In reply to SyntheticBlinkerFluid:

Yeah I think so, they are a little skinny is my only worry, only 18" wide. Walking down in ski boots might suck.

But they will fold up nicely and stow in the underbody box.

Enyar
Enyar Dork
1/12/17 10:36 a.m.

Not 100% sure what you have going on for these foam plans but will a 2 part foam work? You mix and quickly pour and then that stuff expands like crazy and will likely shoot out of any open holes like a geyser.

What was wrong with the fiberglass truck for a ski mobile?

java230
java230 Dork
1/12/17 10:51 a.m.
Enyar wrote: Not 100% sure what you have going on for these foam plans but will a 2 part foam work? You mix and quickly pour and then that stuff expands like crazy and will likely shoot out of any open holes like a geyser. What was wrong with the fiberglass truck for a ski mobile?

Two part would work for the small channels, but its very $$ and the bottoms are not sealed well. I think it would just run out.

The fiberglass one has water issues. The exterior skin is going to delaminate at some point. I have fixed it as best I can without re-skinning the whole thing.

Also its not a crew cab, I dont feel that great about my daughter sitting at the dinette, its probably ok (i added seat belts) but I would prefer shes in a real seat not at a table. (my wife thinks the table will rip off the wall and take her head off....) and its a pain in the ass to yell back and fourth to each other.

Third, diesel, I am REALLY hoping the new truck will get a little better gas mileage. I got about 6 MPG last time, we did almost 760 miles, and used ~125 gallons of gas.

Also the rear overhang is killer, its 8+ feet, any dip or steep driveway sucks. This one is much better in that sense, but is longer wheel base. (almost 20' WB) I may boat tail the rear end at some point.

I am trying to build this one to last the rest of my life. Its all aluminum, no fiberglass to delaminate. Hopefully the truck holds it own, I am fine with maintenance type stuff, but dont want to have to drop another motor in it.

Enyar
Enyar Dork
1/12/17 12:31 p.m.
java230 wrote:
Enyar wrote: Not 100% sure what you have going on for these foam plans but will a 2 part foam work? You mix and quickly pour and then that stuff expands like crazy and will likely shoot out of any open holes like a geyser. What was wrong with the fiberglass truck for a ski mobile?

Two part would work for the small channels, but its very $$ and the bottoms are not sealed well. I think it would just run out.

The fiberglass one has water issues. The exterior skin is going to delaminate at some point. I have fixed it as best I can without re-skinning the whole thing.

Also its not a crew cab, I dont feel that great about my daughter sitting at the dinette, its probably ok (i added seat belts) but I would prefer shes in a real seat not at a table. (my wife thinks the table will rip off the wall and take her head off....) and its a pain in the ass to yell back and fourth to each other.

Third, diesel, I am REALLY hoping the new truck will get a little better gas mileage. I got about 6 MPG last time, we did almost 760 miles, and used ~125 gallons of gas.

Also the rear overhang is killer, its 8+ feet, any dip or steep driveway sucks. This one is much better in that sense, but is longer wheel base. (almost 20' WB) I may boat tail the rear end at some point.

I am trying to build this one to last the rest of my life. Its all aluminum, no fiberglass to delaminate. Hopefully the truck holds it own, I am fine with maintenance type stuff, but dont want to have to drop another motor in it.

For the 2 part foam, can you tape the bottoms? Once that stuff kicks it will harden quick and block holes.

Gotcha! on the upgrade. You had me fantasizing about those lance drop in campers as a ski mobile but then was wondering if the fiberglass just wasn't insulated enough for cold weather.

java230
java230 Dork
1/12/17 1:19 p.m.

In reply to Enyar:

I could tape the bottoms. Ill have to look into it.... I still am on the fence if its worth doing or not. The aluminum will still be all the way around the foam. Aluminum is just such a damn good heat transfer material...

No all the "winterized" slide ins are pretty decent really. Look for double pane windows and tanks that are heated or are in the heated spaces.

java230
java230 Dork
1/13/17 9:57 a.m.

Almost done! Cutting the last bit of the cab and box.

done, that was a *!

Whatever aluminum they used for the floor is HARD

Starting on the gasket!!

all done

Connected! just need to get the cab vents back in now.

java230
java230 Dork
1/14/17 5:11 p.m.

Big adventure truck, little Adventure truck

Looks like I need a little more air in the rear bags.

OHSCrifle
OHSCrifle Dork
1/14/17 6:56 p.m.

First of all - this is awesome. Extremely ambitious but awesome.

Are you doing anything to reinforce the walls where you cut the aluminum ribs (above the pass-thru and the exterior door)?

I see your plywood furring, but how are you planning to insulate walls, roof, floor? Seeing water beads on the inside of the roof, from condensation, makes me nervous.

As a building science nerd.. I wonder if an insulated aluminum "sandwich panel" would be useful. You might want to look into some fiberglass or fiberglass reinforced plastic furring to hold the insulation in place, with far less thermal bridging than aluminum. Or fit rigid insulation between the ribs, and then place a continuous 2nd layer over the top - either glue it all in place or screw some battens into those aluminum ribs.

java230
java230 Dork
1/14/17 7:45 p.m.

In reply to OHSCrifle:

I spoke with the mfg of the box, they do no reinforcing when holes are cut. There is a big extrusion in the corner of the cabover, all the way across.

I will be using polyiso spray foam for the insulation. There will be some cold bridging at eye ribs. (I am. Open to suggestions! Filling the ribs useful?) the ply is hopefully a little bit of a thermal break.

Hal
Hal UltraDork
1/14/17 8:20 p.m.
java230 wrote: Connected! just need to get the cab vents back in now.

Now that you have cut a large hole in the cab leading to a large volume space, do you need the cab vents?

java230
java230 Dork
1/14/17 9:22 p.m.
Hal wrote:
java230 wrote: Connected! just need to get the cab vents back in now.
Now that you have cut a large hole in the cab leading to a large volume space, do you need the cab vents?

Not sure honestly, I put them back in, one is half size one is 1/3 size. They were open with the heat on high at 40 mph, but may or may not be needed.

OHSCrifle
OHSCrifle Dork
1/14/17 10:00 p.m.

The idea mentioned earlier to inject foam through a flexible hose might be worth a science project with a few cans of great stuff. The benefit may be negligible since the whole hollow shape is a thermal conductor - but some insulation is always better than none.

I'd try to get at least a little bit of foam inboard of the plywood furring. Even if it's a quarter inch. A low tech way to do that is to rip more furring strips and fasten it perpendicular to the vertical stuff.

This is an example of fiberglass furring. http://smartcisystems.com/products.php (new product, therefore $$$)

Does the flexible cab gasket have any insulation? I've seen some that have a foam collar along with the rubber seal.

java230
java230 Dork
1/14/17 10:04 p.m.

In reply to OHSCrifle:

Yeah I am thinking I may use 1/8" foam floor underlayment for a tiny thermal break.

No insulation in the cab gasket. I have a plan to make some though. The cab will be sealed off most of the time.

OHSCrifle
OHSCrifle Dork
1/14/17 10:19 p.m.

Water tight gasket

You better build that floor up on a few inches of styrofoam. There aren't many things worse than cold feet on a ski trip.

java230
java230 Dork
1/14/17 10:28 p.m.

In reply to OHSCrifle:

I'm used to frost on the floor! We have exactly zero in the current truck. I have 3" planned under the floor.

java230
java230 Dork
1/16/17 8:11 a.m.

Here we go again!

20170115_155433

20170115_160131

one on this side too

20170115_164726

20170115_164640

also said good bye to my little trailer, kinda sad...

20170115_095233

Petrolburner
Petrolburner Dork
1/16/17 10:02 a.m.

I have not been around GRM much lately so this is the first time I saw V2.0! That is almost exactly the platform I'd like to start with if I don't use a 90s Ford F350 Uhaul box truck. You are really making good progress. I like the vinyl wrap too, I hope you leave it.

java230
java230 Dork
1/16/17 10:12 a.m.
Petrolburner wrote: I have not been around GRM much lately so this is the first time I saw V2.0! That is almost exactly the platform I'd like to start with if I don't use a 90s Ford F350 Uhaul box truck. You are really making good progress. I like the vinyl wrap too, I hope you leave it.

Yeah I am really happy with it, I had been looking for cab chassis to start from, and this happened across my searches. I looked at uhaul boxes, too, they are HEAVY, and wood. But cheap.

Took this a couple weeks ago

20161226_152200

SyntheticBlinkerFluid
SyntheticBlinkerFluid UltimaDork
1/16/17 7:36 p.m.

What type of rubber gasket did you use between the cab and box?

My next truck may end up with a sleeper berth and I've seen a couple set ups, it looks like they used the same type of accordion gasket.

java230
java230 Dork
1/16/17 9:04 p.m.

In reply to SyntheticBlinkerFluid:

It's an accordian gasket from Uni Grip. Designed to slip over a sheet metal lip on both sides. Comes in a fresh different widths.

golfduke
golfduke HalfDork
1/17/17 10:37 a.m.

What kind of adhesive do you use to affix it?

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