You can do it!
You can do it!
You can also Nitrous the FORD, You Have A Running Car.
In reply to GTXVette :
Part of dallas wanting to do this is to get more power and drivability, as well as a more suitable trans. I honestly gave him the car after the challenge, but am still cheif mechanic. If he wants to go ls, i think that it'll be a good deal for all parties. The 302 would wind up in a datsun z car, ls would go in the amc, and i get to play with other people's money.
Well, the price is $1999.37
Includes spares, window nets, challenge livery, and a complete ready to run challenge car. He never got around to starting the ls swap, and the clutch needs bled again. But, fired up right away last night. Has a title, even in dallas name!
The 5.3 ls is available for 500 as well, with all accessories, wiring, and ecm.
Im brokering the sale.
I’ll buy the 5.3 from him if you can bring it up when you grab Paul’s 454 and he can wait a couple months for tax return $ to come in. It would go into the chevelle.
The amc is a stupid deal at 2k. I’m not the guy for it though
So, Patrick has dibs on the ls
Go west, old man.
I should have bought it, i’m sad
edit:
totally forgot about the 5.3 now i’m happy again.
Once the car gets to it's new home you are going to want to remove the wing to work on it or you will have lacerations from walking into the end plates.
Exactly. Thats why mrs snowmongoose put the streamers on it at the challenge
So...to start a new thread or to sully yours?
What do you guys think?
I'm in favor of just keeping it all in the same place.
I say you sully it. Always interesting how a second owner builds it different.
In reply to RACEC4R :
Sully it!!!!!
Im excited to see what y'alls vision and experience is. And im here for armchair support. ..
The next chapter begins....
We also bought a t5 from Dallas for $250 and a set of drag radials on weld wheels for $125.
First this we did was roll the car halfway out of the garage and Jack up the car to take a look at planning a trans swap (see handwritten measurements above).
Crap, what did we do?
Apparently it was too cold for the Bilsteins, and they decided to loose their seals. Doh. Now we're on the lookout for something for the front shocks.
It was so cold that Ian and I just put it back in the garage and went to go drink a lot of beer. Many themes were discussed...
Front bilsteins are, if i remember correctly, 4x4 s10 blazer front. Mounted inversely.
Also, how the berkeley does it get so cold to frag shocks??????
Also, if you look at yhe crossmember, it should have a second pattern drilled for the later mustan trans miunt and length.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
I don't know. Frankly that is only our guess as we have never seen it happen before. It wasn't even that cold (this was last weekend - Feb 2nd) and I think it was 25-30 outside.
Our plans for the year are to test this thing to the max. First just get it running and driving consistently (maybe the t5 swap) but we plan to test,test,test. So I might try a few different sets of shocks if I can find a few different similar stock fitments to s10.
Can you tell me more about the driveshafts you made? for the t5 swap, I think the whole deal would be pretty easy except we will need to cut off the extendible portion of the existing driveshaft and weld on the t5 slip yoke (yolk?). Did you find a good listing or anything of stock driveshaft lengths short of rolling around in the ford section of the local yard?
The driveshaft is actually a stock 4x4 explorer piece frim a late 90s explorer eith an 8.8
Same truck as the rear diff.
I am so happy to see a new chapter for this car. Please bring it back to the Challenge this year.
Wefound the explorer shaft by accident. Just happened to be perfect when compare to the one we made for the aod.
Id look at a mustang shaft to be honest. I believe fox body or sn95 may be perfect based on what i remember from the aod experience.
Well, if the mustang one fit that would just be awesome. Back on page 18 looks like you found the explorer shaft to be 47.5 inches long u-joint center to u-joint center.
According to this:
https://lmr.com/item/M4602G/79-95-Mustang-Ford-Racing-Aluminum-Driveshaft
mustang shafts are 45.5 u-joint center to u-joint center. Since the t5 is a solid 9 inches longer than the toploader, I think we need to go a bit shorter still. BUT, the explorer one is collapsible in the middle and has some extra joints in it that the mustang one wouldn't so maybe it's not really apples to apples.
Unfortunately, im really not sure anymore. I truly dont remember the lengths at this point. Ill have to punt on a good answer.....
I'm gonna have ian roll back underneath and take some more measurements when he gets a chance.
According to the measurements I took (and in general. my measurements need to be double-checked at minimum and straight up regarded as false normally) say the t5 is about 9 inches longer than the toploader from the bell housing mounting surface (back of the engine block) to the middle of the front u-joint. Maybe even 1/2 to 1 inch longer since I think i had the yoke pushed most of the way in and you should have 1/2 to 1 inch of space to move in.
So that is saying we need a driveshaft in the 38 inch range from u-joint to u-joint.
Ian happens to have the aluminum LS1 crammit shaft in his garage, and apparently that is 40.75 inches u-u. Getting closer but might still be too long.
I learned last night that there are at least a few sellers on ebay who list driveshaft lengths by the u-u distance. So if you search ebay for "driveshaft u-u" you get a ton of results that tells you the car and the driveshaft length. I think it will save a lot of rolling around in the junkyard with a tape measure...
Looks like ford expeditions came with a 38 inch shaft.
listing these for my own memory later:
nissan pathfinder (2006) uses a 36.25 or 37.5 shaft with ford 1310 u-joints (same as mustang)
108 WB 4x4 s10 (2000) uses a 37.25 shaft with chevy u-joints
In reply to Robbie :
You are making my day much better by continuing to build this. Im really happy about seing a different vision than mine and dallas.
You'll need to log in to post.
