NOHOME said:In reply to Ian F :
You thinking these guys? They are kinda cool.
Yes. Something about how those work seem more intuitive than the style used in the ES.
NOHOME said:In reply to Ian F :
You thinking these guys? They are kinda cool.
Yes. Something about how those work seem more intuitive than the style used in the ES.
Say, Pete. I'm looking forward... err... ahead... to building my dash. I'm fairly certain I want to employ a bead roller with a set of tipping dies.
What brand bead roller do you use? Would you buy another?
I'm looking at the Eastwood roller because it actually comes with the tipping dies.
Edit: I know most of the low end ones do better with added bracing, and I have a "I void warranties" t-shirt.
In reply to Crackers :
I have a Mitler brothers bead roller.
It is an old one, and unless I could afford their new stuff I would buy the Eastwood one and beef it up. If I were to go at all down the rabbit hole of beadrolling I would buy a lathe and make my own dies
Pete
Don't get me started on my lathe envy. LOL
I have a (paid) repair project coming up that will leave me with 3/4 sheet of 1/8" for free. (And pay for the roller.) So I'll have plenty of material to work with.
Crackers said:Don't get me started on my lathe envy. LOL
I have a (paid) repair project coming up that will leave me with 3/4 sheet of 1/8" for free. (And pay for the roller.) So I'll have plenty of material to work with.
The advantage of bead rollers is they add strength to thin sheet. If you start with 1/8" sheet you won't need beads and the bead roller may fail before you get done trying to put beads in 1/8" material.
I am so not building a dash out of 1/8" plate. LOL
However it will work fantastically for reinforcement of the bead roller. The dash will be 20ga or aluminum.
Edit: My primary interest in a roller is to have the capacity for tipping cleaner (and exponentially faster) than I can by hand.
In reply to Crackers :
that makes a lot more sense...
IT
IS
ALIVE!
Let loose the electrons and behold the results!! For some odd reason I get more excited when the electrical E36 M3 works than I do the mechanical.
The good news is that the only lighting that does not work is the turn signals. The bad news is that I think that is going to take some head scratching because of DRLs in Canada. I have DRLs, I don't have turn signals. Would settle for the opposite of that.
I have 4 way flashers
The fitech circuits all come on and speak to me. Just waiting for fuelin the tank to fire that up.
Pete
Light round of applause going on here....
Result!
Yyyeeeessss
Ooooohhhhh!!!
PRETTY!!!
Nice work. One step closer to a complete car.
AWESOME. You'll be driving it soon, and I'm looking forward to your wife's review of the results. 
Ohhh yeah!
Frustrating day..Spent the entire day trying to get the turn signals to work and no luck. The DRLS work and the 4 ways work, but there is no sign of turn signals reporting for duty. Tried two flasher modules since I have a spare and no difference.
The only time I see anything from the turn signal light is if I hold the key in the cranking position and then they flash, but they flash too fast.
Pete
Does the key need to be in the "RUN" position for the turn signals to work? I think that's how my wife's Ford Focus operates. Theory being that you don't need to signal unless the car is running/moving.
Back to basics:
Just spitballing...
Good to see it running! Has Mrs. NO_HOMES taken it for a test drive yet?
ShawneeCreek said:Does the key need to be in the "RUN" position for the turn signals to work? I think that's how my wife's Ford Focus operates. Theory being that you don't need to signal unless the car is running/moving.
On a Miata, yeah, the key needs to be in the RUN position, IIRC. Side note: my old '83 Chevy K10's turn signals wouldn't work unless the engine was running.
Are they grounded properly?
so if the key has to be in RUN for them to work properly, and you can only get them to work when the key is in START, then i'd say you've got their power tied into the wrong pin on the ignition switch connector. but you've probably already figured that out.
AngryCorvair said:so if the key has to be in RUN for them to work properly, and you can only get them to work when the key is in START, then i'd say you've got their power tied into the wrong pin on the ignition switch connector. but you've probably already figured that out.
Recall that I have very delibertely NOT monkeyed with the circuits in the Miata harness that I am using. I DID go through one wire at a time and removed things like the ECU and pop-up headlight motors and sidemarkets and what-all not that wont be needed. But I did not mess with the actual circuits so they are slaved to the pins that were already there.
I have a few ideas to try when I get home. Grounds are the first and I have actually hauled the dash back out to better investigate ( did NOT want to do that!).
This car has a DRL module ( day time running lights) and it highjacks the front turn signals for that purpose. But from what I can see the rear should work regardless of the fronts. I can make a jumper to eliminate the DRL function so might try that.
Pete
Turn signals fixed. I am an idiot. A happy one though.
Proof that sometimes you have to walk away, and when you come back the solution is obvious. We now have a full complement of exterior lights for all occasions.
Next challenge is wipers. They work, just not with the Miata stalk controls only with the switch that came with the kit.
Pete
So what was the fix?
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Two power sources to the Miata flasher module and I missed one.
Pete
You continue to astonish. Nice work.
In reply to CJ :
Saturday June 1 is the big day. There is a huge cruise in that I want to attend. Fingers crossed.
Not making any more bets with the wife.
Pete
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