I bought my 91' Z28 back in December as a roller. It was originally prepared for NASA's Camaro-Mustang Challenge division and has a NASA logbook.
I started building it back up mostly to make it my learning tool towards obtaining competition licenses, maybe run CMC if there were any cars that would show up [fields in CA are small, and a TPI 350 and a T5 is not a legal combo] and to maybe try out ChumpCar in the EC class. Car could also be made legal for SCCA American Sedan, or American Iron too.
Engine - Late production 5.7 bottom end [no fuel pump provision] Early heads [not sure of the exact #'s, but they are from 1971 and from a truck/commercial engine] Mild Cam Hedman Shorty Headers w/Y-Pipe
Cooling/Oiling System - Aluminum Radiator with custom ducting from airdam for improved airflow Flex-A-Lite Electric Fan Silicone Radiator hoses Canton Road Race 7 quart oil pan Melling High Volume Oil Pump
Fuel/Ignition - TPI Setup from 87' Corvette [Mass Air Flow] Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator Walbro 255 lph fuel pump Mallory HiFire 6EZ Digital CD Ignition Setup w/coil MSD 8.5 Plugwires with protective boots MSD Coil K&N Air Filters
Tranmission/Driveline- World Class T5 5-Speed B&M Short Throw Shifter Lightweight [11 lb] Steel Flywheel Brand New Exedy Clutch GM Performance Aluminum Driveshaft Limited Slip Diff [I can find out the final drive if interested]
Brakes - Baer Claw Front Brakes with Hawk HT-10 pads [also have spare set of EBC yellows] Braided Steel Hoses Brake Duct Setup in front airdam Rear Disc Conversion
Wheels/Tires- 16x8 Trans Am GTA wheels Toyo 255/50/16 RA1 tires [3 sets, 2 dry 1 intermediate]
Suspension- Koni Adjustable Struts & Shocks Front Strut Brace Upgraded Swaybars [unsure of brand] Upgraded Springs [read above] Spherical Lower Control Arm Bearings Steering Rag Joint Eliminator Subframe Connectors Competition Torque Arm Adjustable Panhard Rod External Power Steering Cooler All bushings, ball joints, steering components are in good shape
Chassis/Safety/Cockpit Etc - Upgraded Auto Power Rollcage Momo Race Seat 5-Pt Crow Harnesses [out of date] Longacre back brace [per NASA-regs] Driveshaft Hoop Firecharger Fire Suppression System Battery Box mounted behind right rear rear w/externally mounted charging post Two kill switches mounted per safety regs, 1 main battery 1 alternator kill ARC Switch Panel with pushbutton start Removed most all factory wiring Custom TPI engine wiring harness, uses two firewall mounted 22-pin connectors Nice Aluminum Door panels
Spares/Parts included with the car upon sale - Canton Oil Cooler Sandwich Adaptor x2 External Oil Coolers from 1st generation Mitsubishi Eclipse Turbo [was going to run one as on oil cooler, and one as a power steering cooler mounted in fenderwells in front of the front tires, also have ducts and hose that I was going to to run to them from the headlight areas] Perma Cool Oil Thermostat Remote oil filter mount [was going to run 2 filters to increase oil capacity] Autometer Phantom Speedo, Tach, WT, OT, OP, Volt and fuel gauges Longacre steering wheel with quick release
The exterior of the car is in okay shape. With a good detail the car looks awesome. If it sits outside for a month or two it starts looking a little dull but comes back with a little elbow grease. Was repainted at some point in it's life - it has a few minor dents, dings and scratches but it's a race car after all.
Here are the main holdups right now -
I finished the wiring for the engine harness and got everything hooked up, took the distributor out and primed the oil pump since it was new and the rest of the engine had sat for months, than tried getting it to crank over and start. Noticed a fuel line was leaking so I took that off to have the shop that built it. While it was off I decided to yank the fuel pump relay and do a quick compression check. All cylinders were within 10% but the #1 cylinder had zero compression. I have diagnosed it as a stuck valve but had not had the time to try and fix it. I might start working on it to fix it if I have the time. If there is a problem with the heads currently on the car I have a good set of Camel Humps that will go with the car.
There is still some work that needs to be done on the interior. The gauges are only partially wired, all of the output wires from the respective sensors have been ran into the cabin already though the firewall connectors but that's it. Unfortunately the Autometer speedometer I have will not work unless a vehicle speed sensor with a speedometer cable output & a cable for a T5 is sourced. Better off getting an electric speedometer to replace it [the output wire from the VSS buffe box is ready to hook to one] or just run without it. Numerous other things are left wiring wise - headlights, wipers and brake lights namely. I have all the connectors/switches/etc to finish it up. I also have protective sleeve for the engine harness but have yet to put it on.
The dash also needs to be remounted. The roll cage is built around the dash, so I destroyed the old one which was cracked upon removal. I sourced a dash pad from the junkyard in reasonably good shape and cut it so that it can be remounted again with the cage it place. I also have a dash flocking kit too that can go with the car [something I was planning on doing]
Those are pretty much the only issues at the moment. The longer the car does not sell the more I will fix it and hopefully will get it running and driving. Should not take much really.
I think $2750 is a fair price. Might be willing to trade for a cheap commuter car + cash. I truly hate the fact I need to sell it I was looking forward to running it but I have bigger priorities, two races cars is too much for someone with my time and money. My other race car has more sentimental value & needs finishing and my hauler most importantly needs a few repairs.
Car is located in Aptos, CA a few miles south of Santa Cruz. Delivery can be arranged at an extra charge, but if you are within 100 miles and pay my asking price I will deliver free.
