1990 Volvo 240 No Spark - What am I Missing?

1990 Volvo 240DL wagon, 210,xxx miles.  Was running fine until a few days ago when I started it up, put it into gear (automatic), and pressed on the accelerator.  The car lunged forward for a brief moment, then stalled- and would not restart.  It cranks fine, and doesn't sound weird or slow while cranking, but won't start.

I checked the camshaft.  It is turning.  Timing belt therefore OK.  

I tested the fuel pumps by pulling fuses.  Both fuel pumps are running, and I can hear/ smell fuel coming through to the engine.  No leaks.

Hooked a timing light across all 4 spark plug leads, and cranked the engine.  NO SPARK!  OK, now we've isolated it to ignition.  

I checked the cap and rotor.  They were replaced ~1000 miles ago and look fine inside.  Plugs and wires were replaced at he same time.  

I checked the notorious 25A fuse in the engine compartment.  Not blown, fuse OK.  

Terminal 15 on the coil is getting 12V.  OK

Disconnected the coil, checked resistance- ~1.0 ohm from terminals 1 to 15, and ~7k ohm across terminals 1 and the big lead.  According to the internets these values are within spec.  Coil OK.

I removed the ignition amplifier module (mounted behind the driver's side headlamp) and noticed the connector had water inside.  I replaced the module (with the same part number unit), cleaned the connections, dried everything, and put it back together.  Still no start.

Alternator was recently replaced, ~100 miles ago.  All connections to alternator checked and seem snug.  Engine-chassis ground wire is good.  Battery cables snug and clean.  Battery new (~200 miles ago).

I've read that the crank position sensor may cause a no start condition.  But would the engine still crank with a bad sensor?  

Any other ideas?  I'm running out of things to try.  I feel like the fact that it was running, went to move, and then died is a clue, but not sure why.  

The engine will still crank with a bad crank position sensor. It isn't really in a fun place to get at but I would try that next. 

In reply to EvanB :

Where is it?

EDIT: found the video below.  Looks like fun.  

I wonder...the engine may have been torquing against its mounts as I went to move the car...possibly this tweaked the cable and broke a connection.  Will be interesting to see the sensor when it comes out.  

It's actually not that hard to get to.  With enough socket extensions you can reach that 10mm bolt head if you go straight down the firewall behind the head.

Did it magically turn into a diesel?

Sorry, I read the thread title and that was where my mind went....

wvumtnbkr said:

Did it magically turn into a diesel?

 

Sorry, I read the thread title and that was where my mind went....

No, but coincidentally, I am driving my '83 240D Mercedes now as a backup.  

Crank sensor dead means no injector pulse or pump relay activation cranking.  

The things that make those cars die are crank sensors, efi relays, coils, ignition power stage (module), overheated main power fuse. 

No injector pulse with no spark generally means crank sensor.  Injector pulse with no spark is a power stage or coil.  No injector pulse with spark will be the main relay or the injector power supply relay.  Spark and injector pulse but no fuel pressure will be main relay or pump.

Very rare to have computers go out.

Well, installed the new Crank sensor, topped off the battery...and still no spark. :-( I'm getting ready to throw in the towel on this one, I'm so exasperated. Replaced the ignition module/amplifier, checked the coil (and tried swapping in another coil too for good measure), checked out the fuses and other connections, the coil's getting power and I checked the wires and cap and rotor. Everything seems to be ok. Wtf?  

Gonna have it flatbedded to my local mechanic tomorrow. Car's lucky I don't roll it down the hill into a tree. GRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Does it have a hall effect distributor?

How much endplay is in the crankshaft?

I've seen engines that ate the thrust bearing develop so much endplay that the crank sensor doesn't read anything anymore.  Putting it into gear would put load on the torque converter, which pushes forward on the crank.

Or maybe the ignition module took a dump.

markwemple said:

Does it have a hall effect distributor?

Nope.  It's the newer fully electornic dizzy.

OK. Had a friend with a Saab with a similar issue. Ended up being hall effect issue.