Camber Bolts

Has anyone had any luck with camber bolts? I need to add more negative camber to my '88 RX-7's front end. I can't afford camber plates so I have been looking at camber bolts. There are a couple of different styles, "single offset" and "double offset", sold for the FC RX-7 under the brand names AC Delco, Eibach, Ingalls, Moog, Raybestos, and SPC. I am sure that some of them are probably exactly the same part sold under a different brand name. So, does anyone have any reccomendations in general? Or better yet, any specific reccomendations on a type / brand? Thanks, Ray

I run them on my E Stock MR2. No problems at all and damn near -3 degrees. Toyota make them for the application though. Not sure if they're all like this, but the Toyota bolts are torque to yield, so they're good once. Set it right the first time or replace them. I can tell you from experience they don't work well if you try to adjust them a few times. But set them with a big ass breaker bar and leave them alone? All good.

I've had a few aftermarket cam style bolts break when being loosened/adjusted (Eibachs, I believe.) I've also run 2 on a strut. They change the scrub radius and require more wheel offset for wheel to strut clearance when increasing negative camber. Both of these are arguably bad, while moving the top of the strut in to add negative camber doesn't change either.

I was able to move the top of my Saturn strut in a bit without plates by slotting the upper mount holes on the tower (the factory slots one of them a bit anyway.) GM authorizes slotting the lower strut mounts for camber, which could also be combined with a camber bolt.

Thanks for the info guys. I am only looking for an additional 0.75 to 1 degree of negative camber so I would only use one camber bolt per strut. My biggest concern is having them "slip".

I rallycross with four Progress camber bolts in the front struts. They're maxed out negative, and they've never budged despite me trying my best.

Interestingly, my wheel scrub is somehow zero like this. The car is currently dead in the water with a siezed caliper, smoking brakes after two blocks, but it didn't pull to the side so I figured it was one of the rears again. Nope, it's the left front.

Maybe that's why it's so hard to threshold brake, there's no steering feedback when one of the fronts locks up.

Had them on my MX6 with no worries.

racer_ace wrote: Thanks for the info guys. I am only looking for an additional 0.75 to 1 degree of negative camber so I would only use one camber bolt per strut. My biggest concern is having them "slip".

I used OEM crash bolts on my Neons, 2 per strut in the front. I was able to get almost -2d that way. Never slipped.

Spray a little spot of paint (in a contrasting color) under the heads just before you torque them down, then tighten them on the wet paint. Not only does the dried paint film seem to add some holding force, but you can tell at a glance if they've slipped.

The nice thing about the Progress bolts is that the tabbed washer is heavily serrated, to the point where it will be difficult to remove after you install it.

I found them for $5, application was for an Escort, but they fit the FC struts just fine!

I ran the SPC's on my RSX with no issues. One bolt and a couple other factory adjustments got me around -2d

The problem I had with them was that being smaller,insufficient torque was available to hold. Mine slipped twice. Better way is to slot the upper strut mounting hole, where the strut attaches to the knuckle. Use the full size bolt for sufficient torque. Ford Racing made a kit that did this. No longer available. I had one on my ZX2SR, worked great.

I've got the Eibach bolts on my turbo Sentra. Have not had any slippage even using sticky R-compound tires at the autocrosses. I'm running 2.5 degrees negative camber.

I've had good luck with them on my subarus. Just have to get them to rust and they'll never loosen up.

I had to run a set on the foxbody when I swapped in SN95 spindles.

So far, so good.

I got -8* on the right front of my ministock Neon with stock bolts and a die grinder.

I run camber bolts on the rally car. I don't really recommend it, but if you don't want to slot your towers or pay the money for camber plates, they are hard to beat.

Because the bolt is eccentric, there is less material, and is therefore easier to snap. I've never had a problem until removal.