I need quite a few -6 fittings for my new fuel system. I was going to buy through JEGS, but dang, the price adds up quick with these suckers. Any place to buy them cheaper? or am I just gonna have to suck it up?
I need quite a few -6 fittings for my new fuel system. I was going to buy through JEGS, but dang, the price adds up quick with these suckers. Any place to buy them cheaper? or am I just gonna have to suck it up?
No help, but just saw your post in the SCCA AutoX Facebook group.
In reality, I think you just have to suck it up.
In reply to z31maniac :
Thats what Im afraid of. Being jobless right now puts a damper on spending for stuff like that
Ive bought lots from ebay. The REALLY cheap ones aren't the greatest, but do the job. A dollar more buys a lot on these on ebay.
BITD the Jegs and Summit house brand were significantly crappier and harder to assemble than the name brand ones. Whats the cost of a fuel fire? A few months in the burn ward? Are those chinesium fittings really a savings?
Try checking at local tractor, truck or industrial supply places for prices on getting them to make up hoses for you with crimped JIC fittings.
Since we'r talking about an fittings, what fitting would one use for a nitrous supply line? I have one that one end was cut off of and want to repair for the challenge car.
Dusterbd13 said:Since we'r talking about an fittings, what fitting would one use for a nitrous supply line? I have one that one end was cut off of and want to repair for the challenge car.
You don’t. You throw it out and get a new line because we’re talking many hundreds of pounds of pressure
In reply to Patrick :
Why? People make their own AN brake lines all the time and those see as much or more pressure. Nitrous is about 900psi, right?
IIRC common nitrous lines are -3 or -4. -4 is the same thread as a GM fuel pressure test port and -3 will allow a 1/8NPT to start to thread in, if you want something easy to find to gauge what you have.
I guess, but i’m not doing it. I made power steering lines once out of braided high pressure teflon line with stainless fittings, that was possibly the most miserable experience of my life short of losing loved ones. I guess new pre made lines are cheap enough to not bother for me, and I’d rather trust a factory crimped end with the job
In reply to Patrick :
We have 8-10 different crimpers at work for hydraulic and industrial hose. We can crimp a 6” chemical hose or use our high volume bullet crimper for fast work.
Every one in the building hates field crimp or sometimes called reusable fittings with a passion.
I used to recommend JIC as a cheaper alternative to AN here but gave up because everybody kept telling me I didn't know what I as talking about.
Nylon poly tube works for Nitrous. Cheap and easy.
Suprf1y said:I used to recommend JIC as a cheaper alternative to AN here but gave up because everybody kept telling me I didn't know what I as talking about.
Nylon poly tube works for Nitrous. Cheap and easy.
Can you break it down to what i need to tell the hydraulic shop? This sounds ideal.....
In reply to Patrick :
Power steering is a special level of hell. The pressures are very high AND they need large diameter hose like -6 or -8. Normally you have low pressure large lines or high pressure small lines.
Most AN hose is not rated for power steering, the stuff that is, isn't DIYable.
Dusterbd13 said:Since we'r talking about an fittings, what fitting would one use for a nitrous supply line? I have one that one end was cut off of and want to repair for the challenge car.
Not doable at home but your local hose shop should be able to put a new end on it. Probably won't be pretty anodized but should work fine.
Fitzauto said:In reply to Suprf1y :
What size JIC corresponds with -6an? If its cheaper Im all for it.
It's the same, -6 jic (3/8" ) will interchange with -6 an.
Are those chinesium fittings really a savings?
Ill probably go with Earls then
I recall getting some Earls fittings that were from chingchangistan.
One of which was a metric to AN adapter I used from clutch master cyl & it ended up leaking because the inverted flare was machined too deep and the threads bottomed out before the flares could seat.
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