fastasleep
fastasleep Reader
4/25/14 5:53 p.m.

I am in the process of putting the engine into my Challenge car. I have fabricated some mounts and need to find a cheap alternative to an off-the-shelf rubber insert. I have seen people do the "Window Weld" into broken mounts, but will that work by itself with an additional insert (to house the bolt) inside a larger tube? Can I use UHMW bushings?

Any help is appreciated.....never done this one before. Thanks!

-Les

Swank Force One
Swank Force One MegaDork
4/25/14 5:59 p.m.

Window Weld sucks. Too soft.

This is what i typically use. You could probably get the same thing for cheaper from McMasterCarr, but this was convenient.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DIYMMI

But yes, it will work by itself with an insert.

fastasleep
fastasleep Reader
4/25/14 6:11 p.m.

What durometer do you recommend? I am thinking the harder the better, but dunno. I have a good cross-sectional area for this to go (1.3445 in. OD to a .5450 ID).

-Les

turboswede
turboswede UltimaDork
4/25/14 6:17 p.m.

I just poured a couple of 944 transaxle mounts using the 1lb 80A Polyutrethane kit from McMaster-Carr.

It's stupid simple, clean everything and rough up the material you want it to stick to (metal, rubber, etc) and build a simple mold using duct tape or even plastic from a milk carton and the like since it won't stick to it.

However you do the mold, make it water tight since the mix will flow like water.

Once you mix it, you've got a short time to work with it before it starts to go solid, but it isn't too bad, depending on the ambient temp.

Once filled set it aside for a night or so and pull it out the mold, clean up and rough edges with a knife or a scraper.

donalson
donalson PowerDork
4/25/14 6:22 p.m.

I found for repairing a mount that window weld was brilliant and if I bought another mkI mr2 it would be the first upgrade I did... it changed the shifting and clutch feel HUGELY... it also gave life back to my completely trashed neon mount (along with some rubber hose on the stupid bobble strut)

but if I was starting with an circular encased type rubber mount (like found on most FWD cars) but for some reason it didnt have any rubber I would use some pourable shore urethane from McMasterCarr or use what swank force posted. on my s10 project (traditional RWD setup) I found some motor mount pads that that would bolt to the frame and then built my motor mounts to work with them... if I had to do it again I would have changed the way I went about it as it'll be a PITA to remove/reinstall the engine but they where cheap and are stiff but not like solid welded/bolted mounts.

Swank Force One
Swank Force One MegaDork
4/25/14 6:47 p.m.
fastasleep wrote: What durometer do you recommend? I am thinking the harder the better, but dunno. I have a good cross-sectional area for this to go (1.3445 in. OD to a .5450 ID). -Les

Depends on the actual application. I used the hardest on my motor mounts but most people would hate it.

fastasleep
fastasleep Reader
4/26/14 8:14 a.m.

I read on you link that the hardest duro was for those who don't care about vibration.....I don't care about vibration. Thanks, guys!

-Les

tr8todd
tr8todd HalfDork
4/26/14 9:53 a.m.

Hockey puck cut to size.

fastasleep
fastasleep Reader
4/26/14 11:16 a.m.
turboswede wrote: I just poured a couple of 944 transaxle mounts using the 1lb 80A Polyutrethane kit from McMaster-Carr. It's stupid simple, clean everything and rough up the material you want it to stick to (metal, rubber, etc) and build a simple mold using duct tape or even plastic from a milk carton and the like since it won't stick to it. However you do the mold, make it water tight since the mix will flow like water. Once you mix it, you've got a short time to work with it before it starts to go solid, but it isn't too bad, depending on the ambient temp. Once filled set it aside for a night or so and pull it out the mold, clean up and rough edges with a knife or a scraper.

Do you have a link to that? ....can't seem to find it on McMaster.com

-Les

JohnyHachi6
JohnyHachi6 Dork
4/26/14 1:05 p.m.
fastasleep wrote:
turboswede wrote: I just poured a couple of 944 transaxle mounts using the 1lb 80A Polyutrethane kit from McMaster-Carr. It's stupid simple, clean everything and rough up the material you want it to stick to (metal, rubber, etc) and build a simple mold using duct tape or even plastic from a milk carton and the like since it won't stick to it. However you do the mold, make it water tight since the mix will flow like water. Once you mix it, you've got a short time to work with it before it starts to go solid, but it isn't too bad, depending on the ambient temp. Once filled set it aside for a night or so and pull it out the mold, clean up and rough edges with a knife or a scraper.
Do you have a link to that? ....can't seem to find it on McMaster.com -Les

Just search "liquid urethane" - they have a great selection. I've used it for bushings and motor mounts on various cars with good results.

bgkast
bgkast Dork
4/26/14 1:22 p.m.

The energy suspension kit was cheaper per volume when I priced them vs McMaster recently.

moparman76_69
moparman76_69 SuperDork
4/26/14 1:55 p.m.

Yeah I ended up paying about $43 shipped for the mcmaster carr kit. The energy kit looks like its cheaper. I used 80A on the van, I've ridden in a Sundance with 80A polybushings mounts and They are about as hard as I'd want.

fastasleep
fastasleep Reader
4/26/14 2:46 p.m.

Thanks!

-Les

captdownshift
captdownshift HalfDork
4/28/14 6:57 a.m.

i need to make up 2 more BG sets, thanks for the reminder

turboswede
turboswede UltimaDork
4/28/14 9:26 a.m.

In reply to fastasleep:

For future reference: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8644k11/=rqevz8

noddaz
noddaz Dork
4/28/14 9:41 a.m.

If it is a challenge car, why do you need a rubber mount? Weld a metal bracket and be done.

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