Hey guys,
My 74 REPU is missing the spare tire winch. The wonky exhaust is in the way anyway so not really needed all these years. However I plan on fixing the exhaust, and want to put the spare back where it belongs. I bought this used winch, and would like to restore it.
I've disassembled it and want to get as much rust off of it as possible.
What would you suggest I use to get the rust off?
I used Evaporust on a 50 year old car part and was pretty pleased with the results.
Before
After
Process recommends to remove the grease before immersing the part.
Clean/degrease the everliving hell out of it, then Evaporust. Anything bigger, and I'd do molasses.
Watch a bunch of My Mechanics YouTube videos for tips and inspiration.
Do you have a dry ice blaster company near by. I have used it before for insdurial work and its likely just as expensive as buying a big bucket of evaporust and your time.
Electrolysis will clean that right up. There are multiple YouTube videos on it. Cheaper than Evaporust if you own a battery charger.
In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
No, really, Evaporust is the easy button, here.
Evaporust is 100% the easiest method. No matter what you do you're gonna have to clean it, then you just drop it in.
Stuff is gentle enough it wont have any effect on paint either. Damn near magic.
Also chiming in here to say that Evaporust has never done me wrong. I’ve thrown my rustiest parts in a bucket of the stuff and they come out squeaky clean. Amazing!
The only downside is your parts will flash rust pretty quickly if you don’t paint them, because, you know, untreated metal. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Vinegar is just as good and way cheaper.
In reply to Justjim75 :
There are always trade offs. Yeah its way cheaper, but it can also cause surface pitting, and actually takes some effort to scrub the rust off after. How much effort depends on how long you leave it in, but then we get closer to achieving pitting.
The Evaporust, at most, you need to wipe it down with a cloth.
If I'm restoring something, Evaporust. If I'm just getting something clean and usable again then I'll turn to some form of acid.
In reply to Mr_Asa :
You're experiences are very different from mine. I have left things in vinegar for weeks with no pitting and only needed to spray them off with the hose.
I've used barkeepers friend diluted with water and soaked for a week or so and it worked amazingly well. I got that tip here somewhere. Used it on a rusted stuck door latch mechanism and it worked perfectly afterwards.
Evaporust or Milkstone remover if there is a TSC nearby. Same stuff.
Tried vinegar, not very effective.
Tried electrolysis. Messy and you still have to wire wheel the part to get the ferrite off. Very directional so it wont get in the nooks and crannies of the part.
Rust is gone, but you get a black finish
Given the option I would glass bead blast and finish with a rattle can 2k epoxy. Spray paint alone wont last long under the truck.
No, really, Evaporust is the easy button, here. Really.
Clean the berk out of it (because you'll have to do that no matter what method you use), and toss the part(s) in a bucket of it. Wait a few hours, or maybe until the next morning, and then rinse it off with running water. It's really that easy. As stated, protect from flash rusting afterwards.
RealMiniNoMore (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
No, really, Evaporust is the easy button, here.
I've used Evaporust before and it works. For one piece I'd agree it's the easy button. For multiple pieces or large parts I'll use electrolysis because of cost.
Evaporust, follow it with a scotch brite and then some kind of paint/oil/some kind of finish pretty quickly after.
Also, excited just to hear you're working on the REPU!!! It's been a few years, but I'd still buy those "spare" flares off you if you run across them again.
classicJackets (FS) said:Evaporust, follow it with a scotch brite and then some kind of paint/oil/some kind of finish pretty quickly after.
Also, excited just to hear you're working on the REPU!!! It's been a few years, but I'd still buy those "spare" flares off you if you run across them again.
They're yours if you want them.
Second for evaporust- it's astonishingly good and you also don't need to be constantly checking the piece or ventilating it like other methods- heck, I think you can even drink the stuff.
After that, probably oxalic acid found in Rhubarb leaves or Bar Keepers Friend like dculberson (Forum Supporter) said. Works far faster than vinegar and costs a little less, but know you CANNOT have it around other metals or they WILL rust from the off-gassing. The rhubarb leaves I know is an old hot-rodder trick, people used to boil them to break down the leaves and acids then immerse rusty parts in the stuff for a night.
All of you talking about the cost of Evaporust- you know you can re-use it a few times, right? Don't pour a used portion back into the bottle, but one pour in a rubbermaid container will certainly do several parts before it wears out.
One thing about Bar Keeper's friend to be aware of: the oxalic acid will absolutely ruin any sort of rubber part it comes in contact with.
In reply to Brett_Murphy (Forum Patrón) :
Never knew Oxalic ate rubber, but I guess it's to be expected.
I learned about evaporust from "Hand Tool Rescue" on youtube- he has this huge 50-gallon plastic drum full of it, and I *think* he said he replaces it every 9-12 months. Whatever's in it, just keeps working.
Went to advance auto this afternoon to get evapo-rust. Didn't have it. Neither did Lowes.
Harbor Freight carries Evaporust, as do many local hardware stores.
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